Tunnel plate installaton help please
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 477
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From: Dallas Texas
Tunnel plate installaton help please
I am getting ready to install the LAPD tunnel plate. The exhaust needs to come off, and I can see where to disconnect it towards the front, but am not sure where to disconnect it at the rear. There are clamps but it is not clear to me if there is a joint there. Can the front be unhooked and then the system let down enough to install the new plate? Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated. Thanks, Larry BTW, this is on an '08 coupe. NPP exhaust
Last edited by Larry R; Mar 22, 2008 at 07:06 PM. Reason: update info
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
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From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Disconnect at the "X" or "H" pipe depending on what exhaust you have. You have to remove it to get the old plate off and the new plate on. Elite has great instructions on their website.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 477
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From: Dallas Texas
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Instructor
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: DFW Texas
I am getting ready to install the LAPD tunnel plate. The exhaust needs to come off, and I can see where to disconnect it towards the front, but am not sure where to disconnect it at the rear. There are clamps but it is not clear to me if there is a joint there. Can the front be unhooked and then the system let down enough to install the new plate? Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated. Thanks, Larry BTW, this is on an '08 coupe.
Good Luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 49
From: Sun Devil Country
Larry--Its "Elite Engineering USA" ........try this page for your install.
http://eliteengineeringusa.com/Insta...hermal-Abs.pdf
In answer to your question.........yes you will have to remove the oem H-pipe. Be careful when loosening the bolts on the H-pipe to cat pipes flange. Take your time and preferably do them by hand. Very easily sheared. You will have to remove the spring holder nuts and also loosen the clamps at the H-pipe to the over the axle pipes. Drop the front, wiggle the rear free and then drop the H-pipe down. Ready to install your tunnel plate. I did mine the same time I swapped out the exhaust. And...........do not over torque the tunnel plate bolts. Hope this helped.
John
http://eliteengineeringusa.com/Insta...hermal-Abs.pdf
In answer to your question.........yes you will have to remove the oem H-pipe. Be careful when loosening the bolts on the H-pipe to cat pipes flange. Take your time and preferably do them by hand. Very easily sheared. You will have to remove the spring holder nuts and also loosen the clamps at the H-pipe to the over the axle pipes. Drop the front, wiggle the rear free and then drop the H-pipe down. Ready to install your tunnel plate. I did mine the same time I swapped out the exhaust. And...........do not over torque the tunnel plate bolts. Hope this helped.
John
Last edited by Bandit1; Mar 22, 2008 at 07:25 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 49
From: Sun Devil Country
Isn't this Forum great?!! Looking at this thread alone............in a matter of minutes, you have support from members in WI, VA, TX, and GA all trying to help you out. Outstanding!!! Too bad the Gov doesn't work that efficiently. 
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Great idea.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 477
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From: Dallas Texas
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Buena Park CA
Yea, great idea! I plan on installing my LAPD 1/4" plate next weekend. It looks like the original plate is about 1/8" thick, so adding the two together would increase the stiffness that their 3/8" plate would have....it shall be done!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: merritt island fl
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Two things:
1. You DON"T need to remove the H-pipe. Disconnect the front at the flanges and the mid hanger.
2. You can use a 1/4 plate with the OEM- the OEM bolts will work.
BTW, I had to retorque the bolts (89 in-lbs) twice after some driving before they settled down and stayed tight.
1. You DON"T need to remove the H-pipe. Disconnect the front at the flanges and the mid hanger.
2. You can use a 1/4 plate with the OEM- the OEM bolts will work.
BTW, I had to retorque the bolts (89 in-lbs) twice after some driving before they settled down and stayed tight.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Two things:
1. You DON"T need to remove the H-pipe. Disconnect the front at the flanges and the mid hanger.
2. You can use a 1/4 plate with the OEM- the OEM bolts will work.
BTW, I had to retorque the bolts (89 in-lbs) twice after some driving before they settled down and stayed tight.
1. You DON"T need to remove the H-pipe. Disconnect the front at the flanges and the mid hanger.
2. You can use a 1/4 plate with the OEM- the OEM bolts will work.
BTW, I had to retorque the bolts (89 in-lbs) twice after some driving before they settled down and stayed tight.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX
I haven't installed mine yet, I'll be ordering the 3/8 plate from LAPD this week along with headers and X-pipe; my question is can the bolts be retorqued without removing the entire system?
I think I'll only use the 3/8 LAPD plate, instead of doubling up with the oem plate; I just don't think another 1/8 inch will help much.
Anyone have any 'real-world' temperature reduction numbers on these tunnel plates? Or even what it 'seems' like would be good enough.
Thanks,
JR
I think I'll only use the 3/8 LAPD plate, instead of doubling up with the oem plate; I just don't think another 1/8 inch will help much.
Anyone have any 'real-world' temperature reduction numbers on these tunnel plates? Or even what it 'seems' like would be good enough.
Thanks,
JR
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 134
From: merritt island fl
C1 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
2016 C1 of the Year Finalist
2015 C2 of the Year Finalist
I haven't installed mine yet, I'll be ordering the 3/8 plate from LAPD this week along with headers and X-pipe; my question is can the bolts be retorqued without removing the entire system?
I think I'll only use the 3/8 LAPD plate, instead of doubling up with the oem plate; I just don't think another 1/8 inch will help much.
Anyone have any 'real-world' temperature reduction numbers on these tunnel plates? Or even what it 'seems' like would be good enough.
Thanks,
JR
I think I'll only use the 3/8 LAPD plate, instead of doubling up with the oem plate; I just don't think another 1/8 inch will help much.
Anyone have any 'real-world' temperature reduction numbers on these tunnel plates? Or even what it 'seems' like would be good enough.
Thanks,
JR
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
I don't think the OEM bolts are long enough for any thickness over 3/8" total. You can retorque them without removing anything- just crawl under. I tried to measure the temps before and after but the results were inconclusive- I don't drive for hours on end, and I found the console area to be more affected by interior temp after being parked in the sun.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: Austin TX
Thanks for the info, it looks like I'll have to get some new bolts to mount the new tunnel plate. As far as the temps go, I had noticed that things in my center console were very hot after a 'not so long' trip from the office.
I'll report back when I install it.
JR
I'll report back when I install it.
JR
I don't think the OEM bolts are long enough for any thickness over 3/8" total. You can retorque them without removing anything- just crawl under. I tried to measure the temps before and after but the results were inconclusive- I don't drive for hours on end, and I found the console area to be more affected by interior temp after being parked in the sun.