Borla S-Type (Stingers) Installed... DIY Tips
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: UK
Borla S-Type (Stingers) Installed... DIY Install Guide and Tips
Right, after 18 hours (yes, 18 hours) I've finally managed to swap-out my stock exhaust for Stingers. For those that have said it's easy as pie doing the install at home on jackstands, there should be a disclaimer that states 'Easy as pie as long as your flange studs aren't splayed'!
For those contemplating doing this job yourself, here's a step-by-step guide to how I did it...
1. Jack the car and place on jackstands. I only used 2 stands (positioned at the rear side lifting points) because my driveway is on a very slight gradient, so the front wheels needed to be chocked.
2. First thing, before ANYTHING else, get under the car and undo the x4 15mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the downpipes at the front of the car. With the nuts out of the way, take a good look at the studs. If they're splayed outwards, seriously re-consider continuing with the install. If you have splayed studs (like I did), I would highly recommend you taking the car to a shop for the install. Apparently, it's quite common for the studs to splay and this makes it a total nightmare to remove the collars that fit over them. If all is well with the studs, simply slip the collars back, clear of the studs.
3. Moving to the middle of the car, remove the x2 13mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the sprung hangers and withdraw the bolts (these are attached to the hangers... just move them out of the way)
4. Moving further rearwards, loosen the x2 Accuseal clamps (1 each side) that secure the over-axle pipes to the H-pipe. These are welded to the H-pipe, so don't try to slide them back.
5. Moving back to towards the front of the car, grasp the H-pipe and pull it rearwards, free of the downpipes. Be careful when pulling on the H-pipe as it's liable to pop free and smack you in the face if you're laying under it!
6. Moving back to the over-axle pipes, separate the H-pipe from the over-axle pipes on each side of the car. This may take some persistence.
7. Before we think about dropping the mufflers, we need to get the rear sway bar out of the way. Undo the x2 sway-bar bracket fastners (x1 18mm bolt and x1 18mm nut per side). To remove the nuts, you will need to hold the lower bolts still with a 15mm wrench. With all fastners removed, simply lower the sway bar down. It will hang down on the sway-bar links.
8. Free the muffler pins from the rubber isolators just behind the rear bumper. These can be quite stubborn, so I would recommend spraying some WD40 around the pins where they slide into the isolators; this will make removal considerably easier. Just use your thumb to push the bottom of each isolator free of the pins.
9. Now you can crawl out from underneath the car and stretch your legs!
10. Crouching-down at the rear of the car, grasp either muffler, tilt it inboard and extricate it (together with the welded-on over-axle pipe) from the car. Depending on the height of your jackstands, you may not have enough clearance to do this, so consider using a floor jack under the rear cross-beam for some additional clearance while you extract the mufflers.
11. Thread the Borla over-axle pipes in from the rear of the car. To help with orientation, the long, straight part of the over-axle pipe needs to point rearwards when installed. The muffler-side end of the over-axle pipes will now be sitting above/adjacent to the diff housing on each side.
12. Grease the outer surfaces of both over-axle pipe inlets and slide the H-pipe onto the open-ends of the Borla over-axle pipes. Push the pipes in as far as you can into the H-pipe.
13. Now, go get the Borla rear section (the main part of the exhaust comprising the mufflers and tail-pipes) and smear grease over the muffler hanger pins to make insertion into the hangers easier.
14. Slide the supplied Accuseal clamps down over the muffler inlets. You don't need to tighten anything at this stage... just let them slide on and hang loose for now.
15. Locate the muffler inlets into the over-axle pipes. Once this is done, carefully push the muffler pins into the rubber isolators on the muffler hangers.
16. Check that the over-axle pipes are now connected to both the H-pipe and the muffler inlets.
17. Re-install the H-pipe. Torque the downpipe to H-pipe nuts to 18 ft-lbs once seated.
18. Tighten the H-pipe to over-axle pipe clamps and torque to 35 ft-lbs.
19. Locate the rear Accuseal clamps and tighten. Torque these to 35 ft-lbs.
20. Now, do a quick QA check of the install... you want to be sure that the over-axle pipes are not in contact with the subframe or diff casing and that tail-pipes are where you want them to be (mine were spot-on first time). Check all fastners and make sure they are all tightened and torqued-down.
21. Re-attach the rear sway-bar (some copper grease on the bolts will ease re-installation).
22. Start the engine and check for any leaks.
23. Stop engine, lower car off jackstands, clear tools away, take a well-earned shower and pop a couple of pain-killers to dull the pain of your aching limbs.
24. After a couple of days, when the muscle strain, joint pain and all the various cuts and bruises have healed, enjoy your new exhaust!
This is how my car was supported during the install. I later removed both rear wheels for better access.
Here are the studs that caused me so much trouble during my install (this is after they've been straightened). Notice the twisted hexes on both studs nearest the camera; this was due to a failed attempt at extracting the studs using a 7mm socket and ratchet-wrench. The metal of the studs is so soft, they'll just twist-up on themselves if they're corroded stuck.
H-pipe dropped...
Sorry, couldn't take any pics of the end result as it was dark by the time I'd finished the install. Will update this thread with finished pics ASAP.
For reference, here's an Eckler's video of the install in a shop...
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1329&video=yes
Cheers,
Ian.
For those contemplating doing this job yourself, here's a step-by-step guide to how I did it...
1. Jack the car and place on jackstands. I only used 2 stands (positioned at the rear side lifting points) because my driveway is on a very slight gradient, so the front wheels needed to be chocked.
2. First thing, before ANYTHING else, get under the car and undo the x4 15mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the downpipes at the front of the car. With the nuts out of the way, take a good look at the studs. If they're splayed outwards, seriously re-consider continuing with the install. If you have splayed studs (like I did), I would highly recommend you taking the car to a shop for the install. Apparently, it's quite common for the studs to splay and this makes it a total nightmare to remove the collars that fit over them. If all is well with the studs, simply slip the collars back, clear of the studs.
3. Moving to the middle of the car, remove the x2 13mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the sprung hangers and withdraw the bolts (these are attached to the hangers... just move them out of the way)
4. Moving further rearwards, loosen the x2 Accuseal clamps (1 each side) that secure the over-axle pipes to the H-pipe. These are welded to the H-pipe, so don't try to slide them back.
5. Moving back to towards the front of the car, grasp the H-pipe and pull it rearwards, free of the downpipes. Be careful when pulling on the H-pipe as it's liable to pop free and smack you in the face if you're laying under it!
6. Moving back to the over-axle pipes, separate the H-pipe from the over-axle pipes on each side of the car. This may take some persistence.
7. Before we think about dropping the mufflers, we need to get the rear sway bar out of the way. Undo the x2 sway-bar bracket fastners (x1 18mm bolt and x1 18mm nut per side). To remove the nuts, you will need to hold the lower bolts still with a 15mm wrench. With all fastners removed, simply lower the sway bar down. It will hang down on the sway-bar links.
8. Free the muffler pins from the rubber isolators just behind the rear bumper. These can be quite stubborn, so I would recommend spraying some WD40 around the pins where they slide into the isolators; this will make removal considerably easier. Just use your thumb to push the bottom of each isolator free of the pins.
9. Now you can crawl out from underneath the car and stretch your legs!
10. Crouching-down at the rear of the car, grasp either muffler, tilt it inboard and extricate it (together with the welded-on over-axle pipe) from the car. Depending on the height of your jackstands, you may not have enough clearance to do this, so consider using a floor jack under the rear cross-beam for some additional clearance while you extract the mufflers.
11. Thread the Borla over-axle pipes in from the rear of the car. To help with orientation, the long, straight part of the over-axle pipe needs to point rearwards when installed. The muffler-side end of the over-axle pipes will now be sitting above/adjacent to the diff housing on each side.
12. Grease the outer surfaces of both over-axle pipe inlets and slide the H-pipe onto the open-ends of the Borla over-axle pipes. Push the pipes in as far as you can into the H-pipe.
13. Now, go get the Borla rear section (the main part of the exhaust comprising the mufflers and tail-pipes) and smear grease over the muffler hanger pins to make insertion into the hangers easier.
14. Slide the supplied Accuseal clamps down over the muffler inlets. You don't need to tighten anything at this stage... just let them slide on and hang loose for now.
15. Locate the muffler inlets into the over-axle pipes. Once this is done, carefully push the muffler pins into the rubber isolators on the muffler hangers.
16. Check that the over-axle pipes are now connected to both the H-pipe and the muffler inlets.
17. Re-install the H-pipe. Torque the downpipe to H-pipe nuts to 18 ft-lbs once seated.
18. Tighten the H-pipe to over-axle pipe clamps and torque to 35 ft-lbs.
19. Locate the rear Accuseal clamps and tighten. Torque these to 35 ft-lbs.
20. Now, do a quick QA check of the install... you want to be sure that the over-axle pipes are not in contact with the subframe or diff casing and that tail-pipes are where you want them to be (mine were spot-on first time). Check all fastners and make sure they are all tightened and torqued-down.
21. Re-attach the rear sway-bar (some copper grease on the bolts will ease re-installation).
22. Start the engine and check for any leaks.
23. Stop engine, lower car off jackstands, clear tools away, take a well-earned shower and pop a couple of pain-killers to dull the pain of your aching limbs.
24. After a couple of days, when the muscle strain, joint pain and all the various cuts and bruises have healed, enjoy your new exhaust!
This is how my car was supported during the install. I later removed both rear wheels for better access.
Here are the studs that caused me so much trouble during my install (this is after they've been straightened). Notice the twisted hexes on both studs nearest the camera; this was due to a failed attempt at extracting the studs using a 7mm socket and ratchet-wrench. The metal of the studs is so soft, they'll just twist-up on themselves if they're corroded stuck.
H-pipe dropped...
Sorry, couldn't take any pics of the end result as it was dark by the time I'd finished the install. Will update this thread with finished pics ASAP.
For reference, here's an Eckler's video of the install in a shop...
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1329&video=yes
Cheers,
Ian.
Last edited by i_york; Mar 30, 2008 at 08:39 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 906
Likes: 0
From: Skippack PA
Nice write up, but this is why I did the following:
1) Put exhaust in wifes TrailBlazer
2) Drive to dealer and drop off C6 and new exhaust system
3) Come back at lunch, and pay $120
4) Check for cracked rocker panels and check the mileage
5) After finding car in perfect shape, drive away with new exhaust installed
No pain, nothing hurts, no smashed fingers, just a new exhaust!!
And this works really well when after just a few weeks, you decide you don't like your new exhaust, get another one, and have to take it back and do it all over again. They're more than happy to take your money a second time!
But I give credit to anyone who does their own work on their car. I've just had too many of the "18 hour" jobs that should only have taken an hour. One too many of those, and you start thinking that maybe you should let some one else work on your car!
1) Put exhaust in wifes TrailBlazer
2) Drive to dealer and drop off C6 and new exhaust system
3) Come back at lunch, and pay $120
4) Check for cracked rocker panels and check the mileage
5) After finding car in perfect shape, drive away with new exhaust installed
No pain, nothing hurts, no smashed fingers, just a new exhaust!!
And this works really well when after just a few weeks, you decide you don't like your new exhaust, get another one, and have to take it back and do it all over again. They're more than happy to take your money a second time!
But I give credit to anyone who does their own work on their car. I've just had too many of the "18 hour" jobs that should only have taken an hour. One too many of those, and you start thinking that maybe you should let some one else work on your car!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 264
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
Glad you made it! Saw your post yesterday and didn't have any help to offer. I think seeing your pic the height was your problem. Most folks go a lot higher to get the exhaust out, like 2.5 feet. I've only done it on a lift and the extra space allows you to snake them out reasonably easily.
Good for you in seeing it through. I like to wrench for fun on my car too. Frustrating at times yes but very satisfying when you are done.
Good for you in seeing it through. I like to wrench for fun on my car too. Frustrating at times yes but very satisfying when you are done.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
Nice write up, but this is why I did the following:
1) Put exhaust in wifes TrailBlazer
2) Drive to dealer and drop off C6 and new exhaust system
3) Come back at lunch, and pay $120
4) Check for cracked rocker panels and check the mileage
5) After finding car in perfect shape, drive away with new exhaust installed
No pain, nothing hurts, no smashed fingers, just a new exhaust!!
And this works really well when after just a few weeks, you decide you don't like your new exhaust, get another one, and have to take it back and do it all over again. They're more than happy to take your money a second time!
But I give credit to anyone who does their own work on their car. I've just had too many of the "18 hour" jobs that should only have taken an hour. One too many of those, and you start thinking that maybe you should let some one else work on your car!
1) Put exhaust in wifes TrailBlazer
2) Drive to dealer and drop off C6 and new exhaust system
3) Come back at lunch, and pay $120
4) Check for cracked rocker panels and check the mileage
5) After finding car in perfect shape, drive away with new exhaust installed
No pain, nothing hurts, no smashed fingers, just a new exhaust!!
And this works really well when after just a few weeks, you decide you don't like your new exhaust, get another one, and have to take it back and do it all over again. They're more than happy to take your money a second time!
But I give credit to anyone who does their own work on their car. I've just had too many of the "18 hour" jobs that should only have taken an hour. One too many of those, and you start thinking that maybe you should let some one else work on your car!
hahaha.. This is what I should have done. After 3+ hours of sweating, cursing, & getting cut/burned etc.... I cross-threaded the bolt putting my sway bar back on 
($35 fix to have a helicoil installed). The next time I'll pay the shop to do it while me & the wife go to lunch. 
i-york, great job by the way. I bet you love the Borla's
Thanks for the write up & that Eckler's video helped me a lot when I did mine. And HOLY SH@T, 18 hours !!!!!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: UK
Very similar sound to the Stingers I had on my C5.
If the car wasn't a daily-driver, I could probably deal with something a bit louder, but for daily-driver duty, the Stingers are just about perfect, IMO. Loud enough to sound mean, but not so loud as to be annoying to the neighbours, or on long drives. I don't think it would be wise to have anything louder than Stingers on a daily-driver.
Compared to stock, it's a huge improvement. Nice, burbly, deep idle and a lovely, deep bellow under acceleration. You hear the exhaust at all RPM levels from the cabin, but with a light right foot, it's barely audible; volume ramps-up in direct proportion to throttle input and load.
Cheers,
Ian.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: UK
Glad you made it! Saw your post yesterday and didn't have any help to offer. I think seeing your pic the height was your problem. Most folks go a lot higher to get the exhaust out, like 2.5 feet. I've only done it on a lift and the extra space allows you to snake them out reasonably easily.
Good for you in seeing it through. I like to wrench for fun on my car too. Frustrating at times yes but very satisfying when you are done.
Good for you in seeing it through. I like to wrench for fun on my car too. Frustrating at times yes but very satisfying when you are done.
Cheers,
Ian.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,597
Likes: 3
From: READING PA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
Right, after 18 hours (yes, 18 hours) I've finally managed to swap-out my stock exhaust for Stingers. For those that have said it's easy as pie doing the install at home on jackstands, there should be a disclaimer that states 'Easy as pie as long as your flange studs aren't splayed'!
For those contemplating doing this job yourself, here's a step-by-step guide to how I did it...
1. Jack the car and place on jackstands. I only used 2 stands (positioned at the rear side lifting points) because my driveway is on a very slight gradient, so the front wheels needed to be chocked.
2. First thing, before ANYTHING else, get under the car and undo the x4 15mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the downpipes at the front of the car. With the nuts out of the way, take a good look at the studs. If they're splayed outwards, seriously re-consider continuing with the install. If you have splayed studs (like I did), I would highly recommend you taking the car to a shop for the install. Apparently, it's quite common for the studs to splay and this makes it a total nightmare to remove the collars that fit over them. If all is well with the studs, simply slip the collars back, clear of the studs.
3. Moving to the middle of the car, remove the x2 13mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the sprung hangers and withdraw the bolts (these are attached to the hangers... just move them out of the way)
4. Moving further rearwards, loosen the x2 Accuseal clamps (1 each side) that secure the over-axle pipes to the H-pipe. These are welded to the H-pipe, so don't try to slide them back.
5. Moving back to towards the front of the car, grasp the H-pipe and pull it rearwards, free of the downpipes. Be careful when pulling on the H-pipe as it's liable to pop free and smack you in the face if you're laying under it!
6. Moving back to the over-axle pipes, separate the H-pipe from the over-axle pipes on each side of the car. This may take some persistence.
7. Before we think about dropping the mufflers, we need to get the rear sway bar out of the way. Undo the x2 sway-bar bracket fastners (x1 18mm bolt and x1 18mm nut per side). To remove the nuts, you will need to hold the lower bolts still with a 15mm wrench. With all fastners removed, simply lower the sway bar down. It will hang down on the sway-bar links.
8. Free the muffler pins from the rubber isolators just behind the rear bumper. These can be quite stubborn, so I would recommend spraying some WD40 around the pins where they slide into the isolators; this will make removal considerably easier. Just use your thumb to push the bottom of each isolator free of the pins.
9. Now you can crawl out from underneath the car and stretch your legs!
10. Crouching-down at the rear of the car, grasp either muffler, tilt it inboard and extricate it (together with the welded-on over-axle pipe) from the car. Depending on the height of your jackstands, you may not have enough clearance to do this, so consider using a floor jack under the rear cross-beam for some additional clearance while you extract the mufflers.
11. Thread the Borla over-axle pipes in from the rear of the car. To help with orientation, the long, straight part of the over-axle pipe needs to point rearwards when installed. The muffler-side end of the over-axle pipes will now be sitting above/adjacent to the diff housing on each side.
12. Grease the outer surfaces of both over-axle pipe inlets and slide the H-pipe onto the open-ends of the Borla over-axle pipes. Push the pipes in as far as you can into the H-pipe.
13. Now, go get the Borla rear section (the main part of the exhaust comprising the mufflers and tail-pipes) and smear grease over the muffler hanger pins to make insertion into the hangers easier.
14. Slide the supplied Accuseal clamps down over the muffler inlets. You don't need to tighten anything at this stage... just let them slide on and hang loose for now.
15. Locate the muffler inlets into the over-axle pipes. Once this is done, carefully push the muffler pins into the rubber isolators on the muffler hangers.
16. Check that the over-axle pipes are now connected to both the H-pipe and the muffler inlets.
17. Re-install the H-pipe. Torque the downpipe to H-pipe nuts to 18 ft-lbs once seated.
18. Tighten the H-pipe to over-axle pipe clamps and torque to 35 ft-lbs.
19. Locate the rear Accuseal clamps and tighten. Torque these to 35 ft-lbs.
20. Now, do a quick QA check of the install... you want to be sure that the over-axle pipes are not in contact with the subframe or diff casing and that tail-pipes are where you want them to be (mine were spot-on first time). Check all fastners and make sure they are all tightened and torqued-down.
21. Re-attach the rear sway-bar (some copper grease on the bolts will ease re-installation).
22. Start the engine and check for any leaks.
23. Stop engine, lower car off jackstands, clear tools away, take a well-earned shower and pop a couple of pain-killers to dull the pain of your aching limbs.
24. After a couple of days, when the muscle strain, joint pain and all the various cuts and bruises have healed, enjoy your new exhaust!
This is how my car was supported during the install. I later removed both rear wheels for better access.
Here are the studs that caused me so much trouble during my install (this is after they've been straightened). Notice the twisted hexes on both studs nearest the camera; this was due to a failed attempt at extracting the studs using a 7mm socket and ratchet-wrench. The metal of the studs is so soft, they'll just twist-up on themselves if they're corroded stuck.
H-pipe dropped...
Sorry, couldn't take any pics of the end result as it was dark by the time I'd finished the install. Will update this thread with finished pics ASAP.
For reference, here's an Eckler's video of the install in a shop...
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1329&video=yes
Cheers,
Ian.
For those contemplating doing this job yourself, here's a step-by-step guide to how I did it...
1. Jack the car and place on jackstands. I only used 2 stands (positioned at the rear side lifting points) because my driveway is on a very slight gradient, so the front wheels needed to be chocked.
2. First thing, before ANYTHING else, get under the car and undo the x4 15mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the downpipes at the front of the car. With the nuts out of the way, take a good look at the studs. If they're splayed outwards, seriously re-consider continuing with the install. If you have splayed studs (like I did), I would highly recommend you taking the car to a shop for the install. Apparently, it's quite common for the studs to splay and this makes it a total nightmare to remove the collars that fit over them. If all is well with the studs, simply slip the collars back, clear of the studs.
3. Moving to the middle of the car, remove the x2 13mm nuts holding the H-pipe to the sprung hangers and withdraw the bolts (these are attached to the hangers... just move them out of the way)
4. Moving further rearwards, loosen the x2 Accuseal clamps (1 each side) that secure the over-axle pipes to the H-pipe. These are welded to the H-pipe, so don't try to slide them back.
5. Moving back to towards the front of the car, grasp the H-pipe and pull it rearwards, free of the downpipes. Be careful when pulling on the H-pipe as it's liable to pop free and smack you in the face if you're laying under it!
6. Moving back to the over-axle pipes, separate the H-pipe from the over-axle pipes on each side of the car. This may take some persistence.
7. Before we think about dropping the mufflers, we need to get the rear sway bar out of the way. Undo the x2 sway-bar bracket fastners (x1 18mm bolt and x1 18mm nut per side). To remove the nuts, you will need to hold the lower bolts still with a 15mm wrench. With all fastners removed, simply lower the sway bar down. It will hang down on the sway-bar links.
8. Free the muffler pins from the rubber isolators just behind the rear bumper. These can be quite stubborn, so I would recommend spraying some WD40 around the pins where they slide into the isolators; this will make removal considerably easier. Just use your thumb to push the bottom of each isolator free of the pins.
9. Now you can crawl out from underneath the car and stretch your legs!
10. Crouching-down at the rear of the car, grasp either muffler, tilt it inboard and extricate it (together with the welded-on over-axle pipe) from the car. Depending on the height of your jackstands, you may not have enough clearance to do this, so consider using a floor jack under the rear cross-beam for some additional clearance while you extract the mufflers.
11. Thread the Borla over-axle pipes in from the rear of the car. To help with orientation, the long, straight part of the over-axle pipe needs to point rearwards when installed. The muffler-side end of the over-axle pipes will now be sitting above/adjacent to the diff housing on each side.
12. Grease the outer surfaces of both over-axle pipe inlets and slide the H-pipe onto the open-ends of the Borla over-axle pipes. Push the pipes in as far as you can into the H-pipe.
13. Now, go get the Borla rear section (the main part of the exhaust comprising the mufflers and tail-pipes) and smear grease over the muffler hanger pins to make insertion into the hangers easier.
14. Slide the supplied Accuseal clamps down over the muffler inlets. You don't need to tighten anything at this stage... just let them slide on and hang loose for now.
15. Locate the muffler inlets into the over-axle pipes. Once this is done, carefully push the muffler pins into the rubber isolators on the muffler hangers.
16. Check that the over-axle pipes are now connected to both the H-pipe and the muffler inlets.
17. Re-install the H-pipe. Torque the downpipe to H-pipe nuts to 18 ft-lbs once seated.
18. Tighten the H-pipe to over-axle pipe clamps and torque to 35 ft-lbs.
19. Locate the rear Accuseal clamps and tighten. Torque these to 35 ft-lbs.
20. Now, do a quick QA check of the install... you want to be sure that the over-axle pipes are not in contact with the subframe or diff casing and that tail-pipes are where you want them to be (mine were spot-on first time). Check all fastners and make sure they are all tightened and torqued-down.
21. Re-attach the rear sway-bar (some copper grease on the bolts will ease re-installation).
22. Start the engine and check for any leaks.
23. Stop engine, lower car off jackstands, clear tools away, take a well-earned shower and pop a couple of pain-killers to dull the pain of your aching limbs.
24. After a couple of days, when the muscle strain, joint pain and all the various cuts and bruises have healed, enjoy your new exhaust!
This is how my car was supported during the install. I later removed both rear wheels for better access.
Here are the studs that caused me so much trouble during my install (this is after they've been straightened). Notice the twisted hexes on both studs nearest the camera; this was due to a failed attempt at extracting the studs using a 7mm socket and ratchet-wrench. The metal of the studs is so soft, they'll just twist-up on themselves if they're corroded stuck.
H-pipe dropped...
Sorry, couldn't take any pics of the end result as it was dark by the time I'd finished the install. Will update this thread with finished pics ASAP.
For reference, here's an Eckler's video of the install in a shop...
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...1329&video=yes
Cheers,
Ian.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 10
From: Montrose Colorado
Good job Ian, way to stick with it. I'm thinking about one go round with those bent studs is all it would take to send me into tilt. Then those exhaust manifolds would be coming off. Some times with these cars ya gotta eat a whole lot of crow before you get to the chicken. Again congrats on your install. I loved my Stingers before the header install.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 201
Likes: 8
From: Willis, Texas
I won't tell you that my local muffler shop did it in 30 minutes for $50 and a lot of cussing. If I had the means of getting this car off the ground I would have done the same as you and saved my $50, but after reading your post I'm glad I didn't. Nice write up BTW.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: UK
I got a similar deal here in the UK when I had Stingers installed on my old C5, but just decided I'd have a crack at installing them myself this time around. If everything had gone smoothly (ie. no splayed studs), it would've taken MUCH less time to complete (esp. if I also had a second pair of hands to help).
Cheers,
Ian.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Carpentersville Illinois
installed
Hey guys, glad I read this thread before I installed my stingers. I tackled it anyway. I tried to leave the h-pipe on. That will not work, so I hoped my bolts didn't splay outward. That did not work. Once I got it all hooked up from rearward forward, I "convinced" the bolts back into place with a small crescent wrench around the hex head of the header bolts and a hammer. 8-10 good wacks lined them right back up. Bolted her up, started the car, and then a big grin formed on my face. That's what I was looking for. All in all, if you have enough clearance, ramps up front, jack stands in back; you can tackle the job yourself. It took my about 3 hours because I was messing around trying to leave the H-pipe connected. If I would have just dropped it down I could have been done in an hour and a half. If you have help, maybe an hour. Don't be scared off. Just follow the steps. And if the bolts splay outward, wack them back where they belong.
scott
That's what I was looking for. All in all, if you have enough clearance, ramps up front, jack stands in back; you can tackle the job yourself. It took my about 3 hours because I was messing around trying to leave the H-pipe connected. If I would have just dropped it down I could have been done in an hour and a half. If you have help, maybe an hour. Don't be scared off. Just follow the steps. And if the bolts splay outward, wack them back where they belong. scott
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: easton pa
I installed Borla touring and it wasn`t loud enough...when I removed them ,I was able to drop the cat back out and off WITHOUT un-doing the H-pipe at the front.Since it can come out that way,I then installed the Stinger`s in the same fashion...it did take a sideways push on the passenger`s over axle pipe to "pop" it into the H-pipe..but really was not at all that bad...all took about 30 minutes,the most time was spent re-installing the hangers in the rear which MUST be removed completly to install as i did. Just thought I`d offer how I did it without too much trouble. On a side note...Your "splayed "bolts look like they could`ve been tapped back in place with a heavy hammer and a block of wood...no??
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 915
Likes: 1
From: UK
I installed Borla touring and it wasn`t loud enough...when I removed them ,I was able to drop the cat back out and off WITHOUT un-doing the H-pipe at the front.Since it can come out that way,I then installed the Stinger`s in the same fashion...it did take a sideways push on the passenger`s over axle pipe to "pop" it into the H-pipe..but really was not at all that bad...all took about 30 minutes,the most time was spent re-installing the hangers in the rear which MUST be removed completly to install as i did. Just thought I`d offer how I did it without too much trouble. On a side note...Your "splayed "bolts look like they could`ve been tapped back in place with a heavy hammer and a block of wood...no??
Believe me, I tried hammering the splayed studs straight... the problem was 2-fold; v.limited access/clearance to swing the hammer and (this was the main issue with the hammer approach) the shock from the hammer blows was simply being absorbed by movement in the H-pipe/downpipes assembly.
Cheers,
Ian.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: easton pa
Hey Ian,yes..I only discovered I could install without removing the H-pipe the second time arround. However I did remove the stock exhaust before iI un-did the front H-pipe. The car must be high enough to swing them out and I found it necessary to completely remove the hangers in the rear.As far as the hammer blow...I understand what you say about no room and the pipes moving and absorbing the blow...you did it,I didn`t have to,so you know.have a great day!! Gator
