What local drag strip did you go to?

 

Great Lakes Dragaway in Union Grove, WI.

www.greatlakesdragaway.com/

 

For those who think they know, yes you need to have a tuner adjust the on and off temp settings for your fans, some people think the car will just do it for you, Get Real, technolgy has passed you by Duh.

 

"I do adjust the fan settings but I always recommend the stock thermostat."

So your "professional" tune is to run the fans with the thermostat closed.


Well on the bright side (yours) I bet you get more work in replacing fans that way. Too bad for your customers.

Oh, and by the way, the stocker is NOT a 185.

 

 

Good deal.. So hows its running?

 

12.6's at 114. Its an 07 A6. I put a Vararam on it and I picked up about 1 MPH from last year but I'm still in the 12.6's, which is where I was last year. I was getting 2.0 60's compared to 1.9's last year so maybe I need for the track to get better (or maybe I should learn how to drive).

(Thread - Sorry for the interruption. The regularly scheduled pissing match between bad427 and 6Speeder will now continue. j/k)

 

what are temps that are to cold as to cause the kind of dammage you are suggesting ,my car runs between 178 and 200 is that suppose to be a problem ,pretty serious post by the way I mean this is suppose to fun right ?

 

Nice runs

 

I come on this forum to share information, give and get. I try to keep it civil, and did till I was attacked by someone "claiming" to be a professional and giving out blatantly stupid advice.

A cooling SYSTEM is designed to keep the operating temp within a certain range. The factory sets the range to be a little over 200 to about 220 for emissions reasons. If you want to make more horsepower you can change the operating range to be from the high 180's to just below 200 by changing the fan settings and the thermostat. This allows you to add some timing if your engine likes it, and ensures the timing isn't being pulled by the tune when your engine gets hot. The tune pulls timing at elevated temps to reduce detonation and reduce KR. It's better to pull timing via the tune than to pull it via KR. The low end of your operating range is set by the thermostat, the higher end by the fans. The factory thermostat just starts to open at 187 and isn't fully open till 212(I believe, as I don't have the manual in front of me, so someone please correct me if needed). If you change the fan settings to run higher percentages at lower temperatures in an attempt to run cooler the factory thermostat will just close more, reducing water flow and the final affect will still be a hot running engine and fans that run just about all the time. That is just plain stupid.

If you want to run the engine a little cooler you need, at a minimum, to put in a 160 thermostat and reset your fan to come on faster and sooner. As most on this forum have found this allows you to run in the high 180's to high 190's, which is plenty hot enough to not cause excessive wear from abnormally low temps. If you live where it gets really hot you can add a little more cooling help by changing to a 75/25 % ratio of water and coolant and add two bottles of water wetter.

 

First of all, ed, I think most on here would agree you attacked me. Whatever.

As for the fans, no one on here ever said turn the fans on at 160. If you were a professional you would know that using the stock PCM

YOU CAN'T TURN THE FANS ON BELOW 192 DEGREES.

I truly hope some of your customers are reading this and go elsewhere.

 

can someone please post the correct way to add the water wetter into a C5 vette ! Since there is no radiator cap, and the overflow bottle doesn't seem like the right place.


thanks Tim

 

Open the radiator petcock, drain out more coolant mix than the volume in the overflow into a clean container. Now add the waterwetter to the overflow, and refill with some of the collected coolant.

FWIW Water wetter is a WATER conditioner, doesn't work on ethelene (sp?) glycol. Adding it to a 50/50 mix won't accomplish much.

 

I've used purple ice in my Camaros and like a previous poster said gone to a mixture with more water and less coolant. I forgot the mix ratio I use, but I keep protection down to 0*F because of where I live. To add to your suggestion, I'd set the collected coolant aside and use distilled water and the additive and at least get to a 60% water mixture.

 

That's exactly what I did, I'm running 75/25 water to coolant. You still get the anti-freeze protection, corrosion resistance, and water pump protection. Most of your boilover protection comes from pressurizing the system, not from the coolant, so no loss there either.

 

thanks........

I know, it reduces the surface tension of the water , allowing more heat transfer, by allow the water molicules to get closer together.

Tim

 

It also adheres better to rough casting surface of the head, keeping hot spots down.

 

For the purpose of satisfying the OP’s question, and with respect to the countless number of personal opinions expressed throughout this forum regarding the 160° thermostat changeover – whether it be yea or nay, find the following provided in the spirit of sharing information however subject to personal interpretation.

Fans will need to be re-programmed…

Fan desired % vs. ECT

192 = 20%
196 = 75%
199 = 80%
203 = 90%

Note: It's been stated that setting the 192° degree percentage higher than 25% and the fan will run all the time. 196 = 65-75%, 199 and up 90%.

Also it's been advised to leave the AC settings factory.


Ref: http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...ermostats.html

 

"Note: It's been stated that setting the 192° degree percentage higher than 25% and the fan will run all the time. "

I heard the same statement and tested it. Doesn't seem to work that way. With my 192 set to 40% the fan did not come on until the coolant temp got to 192.

It would be nice if someone else with HPtuners tested it also. Make sure the A/C is off, or the fan will run with it.