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I'm pretty sure my clutch is slipping but I just wanted to confirm. When I'm in 3rd or 4th gear around 1800 RPM, and I WOT, I feel a sudden surge of power and the engine will rev to about 2300rpm, then I can feel some hesitation and will drop back down to about 2200rpms and then continue to go up as normal. Is this a sign that my clutch is going or could it be something else? I don't experience any issues when launching on 1st gear and no slippage on the 1st -> 2nd gear shift at wot.
It doesn't sound like a slipping clutch to me. Sounds like an engine problem. Take the car out on the highway and at around 40 mph put it in 5th gear, depress the clutch, simultaneously floor it and pop the clutch. If you have a bad clutch the engine will accelerate but the car won't. If dropping the clutch brings the engine RPM right down to where it should be for that speed and then accelerates as normal then the clutch is good.
If the clutch is slipping, you should see a sharp increase in RPMs (due to the drastic reduction in load). You should actually "feel" a reduction in power with the increase in RPMs. The RPMs may or may not drop depending on how the clutch is worn. A test is to put the car in reverse with the E-brake on and drop the clutch. If the car stalls immediately, your clutch is fine.
Best way to test a clutch is in 6th gear at low RPM... thats when the most load is on the clutch... if its not too bad you might feel it in between gears when racing or something.
It doesn't sound like a slipping clutch to me. Sounds like an engine problem. Take the car out on the highway and at around 40 mph put it in 5th gear, depress the clutch, simultaneously floor it and pop the clutch. If you have a bad clutch the engine will accelerate but the car won't. If dropping the clutch brings the engine RPM right down to where it should be for that speed and then accelerates as normal then the clutch is good.
This is how we have tested them for over 35 years & it still tells the story.
Sorry Matthew but your e-brake method will not test the clutch. You need to apply high torque to the clutch to test for slippage.
The combination of the reverse gear and the the brake create a very high torque actually. I, by accident, tried to back-out with my e-brake up and when I slipped the clutch I went back a few feet before I stalled. When I did the same thing but dropped the clutch, I stalled right away. Disagreement aside, I like your method better as it seems less harmful to the car.
It doesn't sound like a slipping clutch to me. Sounds like an engine problem. Take the car out on the highway and at around 40 mph put it in 5th gear, depress the clutch, simultaneously floor it and pop the clutch. If you have a bad clutch the engine will accelerate but the car won't. If dropping the clutch brings the engine RPM right down to where it should be for that speed and then accelerates as normal then the clutch is good.
I just tried this test this morning. Cruising at 50mph, 6th gear, disengaged the clutch, reved to about 4500 rpms, dropped the clutch.... Engine kept reving but my car did not move any faster. I think I just destroyed the clutch for good. Well, at least I know for sure what the problem is. Thanks.
I got a quote from Tony's Vette shop near me, $1000 in labor to replace the clutch. That's just insane.
Anyone else have worn clutches at 17k miles?
Last edited by dollar99; May 23, 2008 at 11:45 AM.
I just tried this test this morning. Cruising at 50mph, 6th gear, disengaged the clutch, reved to about 4500 rpms, dropped the clutch.... Engine kept reving but my car did not move any faster. I think I just destroyed the clutch for good. Well, at least I know for sure what the problem is. Thanks.
I got a quote from Tony's Vette shop near me, $1000 in labor to replace the clutch. That's just insane.
Anyone else have worn clutches at 17k miles?
if you feel like taking a ride im about 2 hours from you and i charge 700 in labor.
A clutch should be good for a minimum of 50,000 miles and more like 75,000 or more under normal use. If you haven't abused the car, I would suspect a defective clutch from the factory. If that's so, it would be covered under the drive train warranty with states "clutch linings are covered when replacement or repair is the result of defect in material or workmanship." That's the direction I'd try.