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The bleed screw is on the slave cyl and almost impossible to bleed while the car is together. The turkey baster method is to replace the fluid not necesarily bleed air out of the system. I don't know what you are trying to do but if you take it apart, install a $40 bleeder.
i can't believe the slave cylinder is soo hard to access on this car,, is it really that bad? what about from under the car? turkey baster wont get air outta the system...
Its impossible to get to. Its inside the torque tube
The bleed screw is accessible through a hole on top of the bell-housing. It is not impossible to get to, but it is difficult.
If you can manage to reach the bleeder, than you can also manage to install a remote bleeder, which is a much better use of your time. All subsequent clutch bleeds will be a snap.
This thread has more information on remote-bleeder installation with the driveline in place:
The bleed screw is accessible through a hole on top of the bell-housing. It is not impossible to get to, but it is difficult.
If you can manage to reach the bleeder, than you can also manage to install a remote bleeder, which is a much better use of your time. All subsequent clutch bleeds will be a snap.
This thread has more information on remote-bleeder installation with the driveline in place:
i can't believe the slave cylinder is soo hard to access on this car,, is it really that bad? what about from under the car? turkey baster wont get air outta the system...
-carl
There is another method for getting air out of the system, by vaccum bleeding. Basically you use the Motive cap or something similar, but instead of putting in fluid under pressure you pull a vaccum and (in theory, at least) the air bubbles come to the top.
There is another method for getting air out of the system, by vaccum bleeding. Basically you use the Motive cap or something similar, but instead of putting in fluid under pressure you pull a vaccum and (in theory, at least) the air bubbles come to the top.
This procedure is actually in the shop manual.
Unfortunately, the usual reason for bleeding the clutch is not elimination of air bubbles, but removal of the foul, burned hydraulic fluid from the slave cylinder.
And most causes of air in the system involve a recent or upcoming trip to the clutch slave, anyway.
I'd suggest to anybody contemplating a clutch job to install a remote bleeder while he's at it. It makes subsequent bleeds (for any purpose) ten times easier.
Last edited by torquetube; May 27, 2008 at 02:09 PM.