I just installed a pair of 6.5" woofers in place of the 10" door subs and a 1" tweeter in place of the 3.5" door twiddler. This component speaker set also came with a crossover. When I use the line that was running to the sub as the input to the crossover, I get barely any sound at all out the new speakers. When I use the line that was running to the twiddler as the input to the crossover, it sounds much better, but lacks a lot of the midrange. I bought the same component speaker set in a 5.25" and installed them in the rear (I had to drill holes for the tweeters) and they sound like they are getting a much better range by comparison. I'm wondering if there is a built in crossover somewhere between the doors and the deck and/or if there is another way to get around this issue. Any insight at all on how these speakers are factory wired would be useful. Thanks.

 

You're in for a world of hurt here, sorry to tell you....

The 10" Bose subs are self-powered so you're getting a non-amplified signal. The signal heading to the stock 3.5" in the door is high-passed at the Bose amplifier as well, so that's why you're not getting what you expect. The Bose amp is also very low power and not suited at all to driving a set of aftermarket component speakers like you're using.

I hate to tell you this, but the only real solution here is to tap line signal from the back of the head unit and use that to feed an aftermarket amplifier. Check out the C6 Audio FAQ linked in my signature for lots of info. Also, read this as it addresses some of the why's regarding the things I mentioned above:

http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...aker-swapping/

 

Maybe I should mention that I don't even have the package with the Bose system. Also, these component speakers are not particularily powerful (Phoenix Gold RSd65cs), therefore I don't think I should need an amp. I'm assuming the signal running to my rear speakers is not amplified, and I changed those out with the same component speakers in the 5.25" size (Phoenix Gold RSd5cs) and they sound great. So how do I get around this high-passed signal coming out of the factory amp, and where is the amp even located?

 

OK, well the 8" sub in the Delco system isn't self-powered, so the fact that you're not getting much output from the 6.5" driver may simply say that the Delco amp (which is in the passenger footwell) doesn't have enough oomph to drive the speaker. Also, speakers aren't powerful, they're rated for maximum power levels, which only tells you what they're warrantied for and how much power is generally safe to feed them. It tells you NOTHING about the minimum power they need. The Bose & Delco factory amps put out something in the area of 15W, which is absolutely nothing.

The rear speakers are NOT self-amplified, so they're being pushed by the stock amp. It could be the 5.25" version of the Phoenix Gold speakers is more sensitive and therefore the stock amp is giving you some output.

You say something about getting around the high pass... well there's no getting around it and continuing to use the factory amp. The crossover is integrated into the amp itself and is not adjustable. The only way to get around it is to do as I recommended and tap low level signal and install a decent amplifier.

I know I'm not telling you what you want to hear, but I've been banging my head against the C6 stereo systems for over 2 years now, they are what they are and what I'm telling you is how it is. You either do a simple swap as I describe in the link above, or you pretty much start over.

 

Okay, thanks very much. I appreciate your help.

 

Kind of makes it hard to put in an aftermarket system that you want.

 

you are getting less signal to your speakers because you are running it through yet another crossover. As far as I know, which I admit is limited, the system is already biamped. I do not know the crossover frequency, but that can be tested. However, it is important to match the crossover point for the new speakers with that the system already has. Adding a second crossover only increases resistance, strange rolloff points, introduces unwanted phase effects, and really bad sound.

 

Actually it's an easy car to do an aftermarket system as long as you're willing to do the whole system. But it's an impossible car to do just a little bit because of the reasons I stated above.



I considered suggesting hooking the 6.5" straight to the wires without the crossover, but you never know what the results might be. And for the tweeter do NOT run without the crossover, the stock is a 3.5" "full range" driver and will carry frequencies far below what a typical aftermarket tweet is designed to output.