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Advice needed on building a forged stroker

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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 10:03 PM
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Default Advice needed on building a forged stroker

Im looking into building a motor and would like to hear everyones opinions on which route to go. Should I take the ls2 thats in the car and buy a rotating assembly and drop it in or is it more cost efficient to buy a short block. And of coarse theres the heads Im looking at the afr's but which ones 205's or 225's or whats everyones thoughts on that. Oh and yeah I guess I should mention it'll be supercharged not shure on the boost level yet but would like to drop the compression ratio and add more boost. Theres lots of decisions to make and I would like to get the ball rolling soon!

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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 02:44 PM
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My opinion...
if you have the extra money i'd buy another short block and build a new motor only to have a spare just in case the worse should happen.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jacks05
Oh and yeah I guess I should mention it'll be supercharged not shure on the boost level yet but would like to drop the compression ratio and add more boost. Theres lots of decisions to make and I would like to get the ball rolling soon!
If you are building a street car with a modest power goal for a stroker (e.g. 650 RWHP) you should talk your FI specialist about how much of a compression drop you really need. The conventional wisdom is drop the CR to around 9:1 and run lots of boost. However, you may get a better street car buy running 9.5:1 to 10:1 and using cam timing to bleed off some dynamic compression. It all goes to really thinking through the intended use, available traction, and matching the compression, displacement, cam, and boost curve to meet that usage.

Good luck on your project.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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You first need to decide on what your HP goals are? You may be able to achieve them with your current LS2.
Then I would recommend reviewing some of the current crate engines like the ones Scoggin Dickey offers.
I would also consider the new Chevy L92 heads verses the AFR. The L92 heads are $175 bare and will flow as well as most aftermarket heads. You can add some good quality solid stem valves, aftermarket springs, titanium retainers, and spend half the price as the aftermarket heads.
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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where would you guys consider to be a reputable place to purchase a short block stroker from?
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Old Jun 18, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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Bought a forged 402 stroker short block from Texas Speed. Added a crane cam. Put back my AFR225 heads, dynatech headers and procharger D1SC. Using the PC 4.75 pulley and 3lbs of boost made 560/506rw. Changing to a 4.25 pulley and increasing the boost to near 10lbs tomorrow, will post the new results.

The important thing is to work with a reputable tuner and decide were you want to be when you're done building the motor.
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 04:04 PM
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If you were to reuse your block then you have to wait while it gets machined and assembled. Having another engine built pretty much brings you down to how quickly the engine can be swapped out. So you have to way the cost versus down time... what's worth more to you?
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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ok another question which is better an iron block or aluminum?
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Old Jun 19, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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Depends on how much power and the setup you are looking for. For most applications aluminum is fine. Plus it weighs much less.

We've made over 1000RWHP with an LS6 block.

Max
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Old Jun 22, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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From a pure HP standpoint, an iron block like the LSX is superior. Plus, the LSX allows larger bore and stroke sizes. But, we don't race blocks. We race cars with blocks in them and 100-150 pounds is a definite advantage, especially if you run road race tracks.

The Merlin folks have a new LS aluminum block that looks very nice.
You can also use the LS3 or LS7 Chevy alum blocks as they have larger bores than the LS2.
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