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Damn, I guess I'm the winner here. Yesterday in Phoenix it was 114 with no humidity. I was driving my Z06 kinda hard, and got coolant temps to 245 and oil temp to 230. Crusing on the highway the coolant temp came down to 220, but started to elevate again in stop and go traffic. Yikes, maybe time for a better radiator...
I would expect this. At 75mph air resistance really is having an effect- the engine is working much harder than at 60 mph, for example. Just for fun, the next time you have a chance for some long term high speed cruising, set the DIC to instantaneous MPG and ride for a while at 60mph, then 65, then 70, etc. and notice the difference in instantaneous MPG. The decrease in MPG is almost entirely due to air resistance.
Decreased MPG=engine working harder=more heat
You are certainly right about the instantaneous gas mileage. I played with it little on the trip and you could see it drop along with the pedal.
The LGM radiator seems like the best option for Texas. The coolant will keep engine oil at an acceptable temperature in colder weather while the increased cooling will drop the engine oil and trans temps during the summer.
The reason your temp did not go above 210 in stop and go traffic is not because of the thermostat. The reason is that the fan speed has been adjusted to run faster at lower temps. If the fan speed had not been adjusted the temp would have gone higher even if you had a 120* thermostat.
Umm... I said I have had a tune. Temps will be cooler with a 160 and a tune than with a tune only.
Umm... I said I have had a tune. Temps will be cooler with a 160 and a tune than with a tune only.
Temps will not necessarily be cooler with a 160 and a tune than with a tune only. If it's 95* ambient and you're sitting in traffic it doesn't matter what temp thermostat you have, the coolant temp will reach the same level as if you had a 180* stat.
Damn, I guess I'm the winner here. Yesterday in Phoenix it was 114 with no humidity. I was driving my Z06 kinda hard, and got coolant temps to 245 and oil temp to 230. Crusing on the highway the coolant temp came down to 220, but started to elevate again in stop and go traffic. Yikes, maybe time for a better radiator...
Saturday coming home from downtown Phoenix these were my numbers:
Outside temp: 114
Coolant after 10 miles cruising on the freeway: 189
Coolant after 4 miles of city driving: 203, but came back down to 199 as I pulled into the garage.
I have a 160 tstat with my fans reset. I also have a Honker knock-off inlet. The only thing the Honker takes away from radiator air flow is the engine inlet air, which is not very much. But the Vararam also leaks air flow around the opening which robs the radiator of more air flow.
If it's 95* ambient and you're sitting in traffic it doesn't matter what temp thermostat you have, the coolant temp will reach the same level as if you had a 180* stat.
I guess we're having a failure to communicate. I meant all around temps will be cooler with a 160 and fan adjust that with a fan adjust only.
After another member asked for references, we both researched the issue. I found an obscure document from the Oak Ridge Nat'l Lab that correctly answered the question.
At the same temperature dry air will transfer heat faster than humid air. The fact that air is such a poor conductor of heat makes the differences almost insignificant, but that doesn't excuse my error.
I just felt the need to correct the wrong statement so it didn't continue to be passed along as a fact.
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
I was wrong. Sorry guys.
After another member asked for references, we both researched the issue. I found an obscure document from the Oak Ridge Nat'l Lab that correctly answered the question.
At the same temperature dry air will transfer heat faster than humid air. The fact that air is such a poor conductor of heat makes the differences almost insignificant, but that doesn't excuse my error.
I just felt the need to correct the wrong statement so it didn't continue to be passed along as a fact.
I was wondering about that. Thanks for coming back and setting us straight.
I monitor mine all the time and with a stock stat my moving temp is 194, idle temp in traffic with temps in the 90s is 199. It will see 204 until the fans come on which are set to run constantly at lower speeds.
After another member asked for references, we both researched the issue. I found an obscure document from the Oak Ridge Nat'l Lab that correctly answered the question.
At the same temperature dry air will transfer heat faster than humid air. The fact that air is such a poor conductor of heat makes the differences almost insignificant, but that doesn't excuse my error.
I just felt the need to correct the wrong statement so it didn't continue to be passed along as a fact.
You were the one that found it! Thanks, it's good information that most people get wrong (even Heat Transfer Engineers!). There are 2 things that fool them. First if it's raining and liquid water gets to the radiator, the latent heat of vaporization makes the heat tranfer an order of magnitude better! Second, if the heat exchanger is cooling the humid air (like in your A/C Evaporator), then the latent heat of condensation also makes the heat transfer a lot better.
But your key is that air is such a bad thermal conductor that displacing some of it with water vapor doesn't hurt it a lot.
The highest I've gotten mine up to is 217, but to be fair I only do "spirited" driving at night, long after sundown, when the ambient temperature is much cooler than high noon, for instance. (I get home from work at 9, so I drive around from 10 to midnight usually.)
The modified shroud won't affect coolant temps much, the C6 is a bottom feeder. The majority of the air flow thru the radiator comes from below the bumper cover, not thru the grill.
The modified shroud won't affect coolant temps much, the C6 is a bottom feeder. The majority of the air flow thru the radiator comes from below the bumper cover, not thru the grill.
Will opening the shroud decrease the intake air temps?
Will opening the shroud decrease the intake air temps?
Yes, any of the "TRUE" CAI's that use a cut shroud, even the DIY of propping the shroud open at the edge uses ambient air instead of air that has been thru and around the engine compartment on the stock air filter/box setup. You even get a slight ram air effect.
If you cut the shroud with the stock air box be sure and change the filter element(s) to the aftermarket oiled type, the stock paper filter will disintegrate when water exposed to moisture.
That's awesome - I haven't heard those terms since advanced physics in high school!
I can remember things from High School over 37 years ago, I just can't remember where I left my reading glasses 5 minutes ago! It's hell getting old, but obviously better than the alternative.