Hello Guys,

Can some one please help me out with the install of the remote clutch bleeder kit? I got it from LAPD and I asked for instructions, I was told they do not have them.

Thank you.
Karn

 

My understanding is the bell housing has to be removed, otherwise, it is extreamly difficult. You know what that means. Maybe wait until it is time for an new clutch?

 

So if you need to replace the clutch fluid you have to take the whole thing apart?

 

That is the point of the bleeder. So you don't have to take it all apart to get to the bleed screw.

To install it yes, it has to come all apart. I've never been able to reach the bleeder (where the LAPD thing mounts) with the motor in the car.

You can replace the clutch fluid using Ranger's turkey baster method. Do a search. Pretty much you suck out the dirty, then fill with clean stuff then drive round. Repeat till there is no more dirty.

 

I have been doing that. When I was at Irwindale my clutch pedal got stuck for a second then came back. And from what I understand that is because the fluid got really hot. So I just wanted to replace the whole thing.

 

I've never had the clutch pedal thing. Heat is one of the top reasons for failure. I guess you can keep using the baster emthod until you do a clutch swap.

 

I just installed one in my c-6. I had removed the headers to put in a clutch. With the left header removed at top of the tork tube you will see the bleeder fitting sticking up from the slave. All one needs to do is remove the bleeder ( believe using a 10mm wrench ) and insert the speed bleeder in the hole. You will not be able to see the bleeder hole, the speed bleeder is not long enough to get a wrench on, so have the complete speed bleeder unit there to screw into the bleeder hole. Hope this makes sense. This was very easy, good luck.

 

What?

How can you get a wrench on the thing again?

 

GM manual says remove the catalytic converter & driveline tunnel closeout panel to get at the bleeder. (9mm wrench) once the converter is off, think you could reach it.

 

I did mine last Saturday, took eight or nine hours, knowing what I know now it should only take a couple of hours. Torquetube, my inspiration on this project (he did a post on this a few weeks ago), did it without removing headers or the rest of the exhaust so it may have only taken him an hour or so. Torquetube had stock headers, I have Melrose longtube headers with random tech cats. First step is to empty the clutch master cylinder, you can use a turkey baster, I used a Mixmizer. What you do not remove will wind up on you and the floor. I gather from Torquetube, if you have stock headers you can reach the bleed screw with your left hand by reaching between the left header and the car frame. The bleed screw is on the left side of the bell housing at about ten or eleven o'clock, you will not be able to see it, but you can feel the rubber cap on the end of the bleeder. With Melrose, you put your left hand up between the header and bell housing. Easy to reach and remove the rubber cap and to feel the actual bleeder screw and remove with a nine metric. The screw is about three inches long and the tip you feel is just like a brake bleeder screw. As you are unscrewing the bleeder the fluid in the line and possibly the slave cylinder will run down your arm or inside the bell housing. Torquetube and I used the clutch bleeder from RPM, $77.51 delivered was my cost--no speed bleeder. Not sure if the LAPD bleeder is identical to RPM where it attaches to the slave. On the RPM there is a three inch long adapter that detaches from the fitting on the line and you insert that adapter into the slave and tighten, not too much, with a half inch open end.
Space between the bell housing and transmission tunnel at that point is very restricted. I could get two fingers on my left hand in that area easily enough but just barely. After a couple of hours trying to stab the bleeder hole I realized my plan was not likely to work.
Removing the header did not look like it would help much so I removed the exhaust system from the headers back, and then the tunnel plate. From there I could see the adapter and by tying a string to the curved tube on the other end of the line so I could pull it back I was able to align it with the fitting and tighten the fitting. I could get fingers from both hands at the same time in the critical area.

Hope this helps, let me know if I can help.

One other thing, while trying to stab the bleeder I dropped the fitting into the opening around the bleeder, I must have desperately tried to hold onto it for half an hour fearing it would fall into the bell housing and necessitate removal of the bell housing. Fortunately, the fitting I had would not fall all the way into the bell housing so it was just time consuming trying to retrieve it several times. The fitting is not ferrous so a magnet would not work.

 

Thank you for the help.

Karn

 

I've been doing the turkey baster thing since new and my clutch was fine until I put in my cam, then it started sticking down. I removed my clutch pedal spring a year ago and it hasn't stuck down since. I still do the turkey baster thing before and after each track event. I've got over 200 runs on my stock clutch in my daily driver (and my fingers crossed).

 

Getting a wrench on the bleeder fitting is easy, just reach above the torq tube just behind the bell housing. The fitting is long and one can put a , I believe a 10mm wrench on it fairly easy to remove it. Installing the new bleader will be a little more difficult, but not hard. Good luck.

 

I just had mine done and you actually don't have to remove the bell housing or torque tube. Its easier to remove the drivers side header to install the bleeder. It can take 1-3 hours depending on the level of skill you have, the tools and the lift. I sent my headers out and had them ceramic coated by jet hot. The clutch pedal still fells sticky and doesn't spring up as quick after the car warms up.

 

PM sent. My clutch pedal still feels sticky after i changed the fluid, coated the headers and installed a heat shield.

 

Here's some instructions and pics of the spring on the pedal and how to remove it. Removing it fixed my sticky clutch problem.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...spring+removal

 

Thanks for the info. I hope it works.

 

Man i want to know how to install it to any pics?