Sway Bar Swap Trouble
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Middletown Pennsylvania
Sway Bar Swap Trouble
I am swapping out the sway bars on my '08 with F55 for Z51 sway bars.
Started with the rear and have the Z51 sway bar installed.
During initial torquing, my Torx bit broke off in the passenger side link bolt. It broke off inside the bolt so I can't get a grip on it to pull it out.
I need ideas on how to get it out of there.
Beyond my immediate problem, a few more questions.
1. The bit I was using doesn't have a size stamped on it. What size is it (so I can get another)?
2. I was using torque values that I got from this forum. If anybody has a Helms manual, would you please post the values as a double check.
Thanks,
Bill
Started with the rear and have the Z51 sway bar installed.
During initial torquing, my Torx bit broke off in the passenger side link bolt. It broke off inside the bolt so I can't get a grip on it to pull it out.
I need ideas on how to get it out of there.
Beyond my immediate problem, a few more questions.
1. The bit I was using doesn't have a size stamped on it. What size is it (so I can get another)?
2. I was using torque values that I got from this forum. If anybody has a Helms manual, would you please post the values as a double check.
Thanks,
Bill
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,573
Likes: 770
From: panama city beach florida USA
St. Jude Donor '09
get a very good sharp center punch [not where ya bought your torx socket] and start working over the broken bit NOT THE STUD it should work free .dont kill it with heavy hammer blows. get a GOOD set of torx bits
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix AZ
going strictly from memory I think the back of the link has flat spots where you could possibly slide a very thin wrench in there to keep the stud from turning - its worth a look anyway...
The rear lowers are a pain to get at - its best to remove the uppers where they attach to the bar then remove the bar. If you need to take off the links (which in your case you shouldn't) go back and undo the lowers (at the control arm) once the bar is out of the way. when reinstalling put the links on the lower control arm first then install the bar.
The rear lowers are a pain to get at - its best to remove the uppers where they attach to the bar then remove the bar. If you need to take off the links (which in your case you shouldn't) go back and undo the lowers (at the control arm) once the bar is out of the way. when reinstalling put the links on the lower control arm first then install the bar.
Last edited by vetracer; Jul 13, 2008 at 04:52 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,604
Likes: 396
From: Austin, TX
going strictly from memory I think the back of the link has flat spots where you could possibly slide a very thin wrench in there to keep the stud from turning - its worth a look anyway...
The rear lowers are a pain to get at - its best to remove the uppers where they attach to the bar then remove the bar. If you need to take off the links (which in your case you shouldn't) go back and undo the lowers (at the control arm) once the bar is out of the way. when reinstalling put the links on the lower control arm first then install the bar.
The rear lowers are a pain to get at - its best to remove the uppers where they attach to the bar then remove the bar. If you need to take off the links (which in your case you shouldn't) go back and undo the lowers (at the control arm) once the bar is out of the way. when reinstalling put the links on the lower control arm first then install the bar.
I agree on the flat spots!I snapped two torx bits doing mine until I used the wrench method. I just tapped on the nut (with wrench or whatever) and end link and the broken tip finally just fell out. If you use the torx bit I think its better to tighten the nut not the stud but I could be dreaming.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 17,373
Likes: 6
From: Chatsworth California
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,067
Likes: 1
From: --- N.E., Pa.
I agree on the flat spots!I snapped two torx bits doing mine until I used the wrench method. I just tapped on the nut (with wrench or whatever) and end link and the broken tip finally just fell out. If you use the torx bit I think its better to tighten the nut not the stud but I could be dreaming.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Middletown Pennsylvania
Unfortunately my impatience got the best of me while the Helms Manuals were in the mail. The stabilizer bar swap looked easy. Until I did it in what looked like the obvious way. Dumb, dumb, dumb.
Just got the manuals and read about using a wrench to hold the stud from turning. Then why the heck is there a Torx socket in the end of the stud? Maybe it is okay for loosening only.
The Torx bit I broke was a Sears Craftsman brand. I have never had a problem with their tools unless I used a driver that was longer than standard. I this case, my 3/8" drive torque wrench is about a foot longer than a standard 3/8" ratchet wrench. And I was using it to turn the stud with the Torx bit while holding the nut with a wrench. Like I said, it looked obvious.
At least give me credit for having torque wrenches. A couple of them actually, to cover different ranges. Still don't have one in inch-pounds though.
My tool set is all Craftsman, huge stacking chest and toolbox with at least two of everything. And a few smaller toolboxes to hold the overflow.
What do you consider to be a better brand of tools?
Bill
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Middletown Pennsylvania
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 301
From: Tucson Arizona
St. Jude Donor '08
18mm
First of all, do not turn the link studs. If you do or have turned them, they may be damaged and make a clunking noise during low speed operation. Turn the nuts with a metric wrench or socket while holding the studs from turning with an 18 mm open end wrench.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
I do give you credit for DIY, and I have to admit I would have recommended craftsman and still do, if you can get the piece of bit loose with the punch you might try a magnet to lift it out. they use the torx because it's the same everywhere. neithier metric or sae
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 17,373
Likes: 6
From: Chatsworth California
I made sure I held it in place.