C6 Stereo Amplifier Question
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7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
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C6 Stereo Amplifier Question
I've installed a mono amp to power a sub and a 4 channel amp to replace the factory amp to power the car's speakers. The problem is I can't seem to find a 12v source for the on/off relay wire that will keep the amps powered after I turn off the car but before I open the doors. I've been able to hook them into an accessory power source but that cuts out unless the car is in accessory mode or turned on. The deck stays on until you open the doors so I was wondering if anyone with knowledge of the electrical system could advise me of a location to put that relay wire so I can keep that feature. Thanks.
Last edited by slyguy10000; Jul 13, 2008 at 05:10 PM.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 57
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From: Winnipeg Manitoba
Let us know how it sounds
I have done many head unit swap outs from factory to aftermarket and they have made a significant improvement to the factory speakers.
Let me know how this worked for you as I am looking to upgrade the sound system as well.
Not sure what wire to use but get a volt meter and look for red or yellow wires.
Let me know how this worked for you as I am looking to upgrade the sound system as well.
Not sure what wire to use but get a volt meter and look for red or yellow wires.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
I've installed a mono amp to power a sub and a 4 channel amp to replace the factory amp to power the car's speakers. The problem is I can't seem to find a 12v source for the on/off relay wire that will keep the amps powered after I turn off the car but before I open the doors. I've been able to hook them into an accessory power source but that cuts out unless the car is in accessory mode or turned on. The deck stays on until you open the doors so I was wondering if anyone with knowledge of the electrical system could advise me of a location to put that relay wire so I can keep that feature. Thanks.
http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...?ProductID=170
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 7,457
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From: NC
I'm not sure which wire you're referring to, but there isn't a factory switched power source at the head unit that I have ever found (and I spent a lot of time with my meter!). The power on/power off signals come over the serial data bus, and that is how RAP (Retained Accessory Power) is achieved. The only way I know of to get this is to use a module like Peripheral's GMRAP that you tie into the data bus and it outputs switched 12V.
http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...?ProductID=170
http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...?ProductID=170
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Only because absolutes have a tendency to swing back around on you, I'll say I'm 99% certain this is the case. I certainly haven't seen a 12V RAP "trigger" in any of the harnesses.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
Likes: 16
From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Out of curiosity, what did you use as the signal source for your sub amp? If you tapped the rear speakers, you're not getting what you think you're getting.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,289
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From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 7
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Alright, well I've ordered a GMRAP so I will let you know how that install goes.
The system sounds great now that it's almost done. I've replaced the front and rear speakers with Phoenix Gold Rsd 6.5 and Rsd 5.25 component speakers. I had to drill 1 inch holes in the rear panels beside the existing rear speakers for the tweeters that came with the set. They came with crossovers too, to filter out any real lows, so without a sub I would have no bass at all. I just unhooked the center speaker in the dash all together. I also built a box to house my 10" Alpine R-type sub which I'm running off of an Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier. Then I rewired all of the speakers and I am running them off an Alpine MRP-F450 amplifier. One of the hardest parts of the whole thing was running 0 gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. The speakers all sound really clear with virtually no distortion, even when I have it cranked. And now I don't get any rattling from the doors like I used to from those factory subwoofer-type things that were in the doors before. I would definitely recommend it to any audiophiles out there. Thanks for all the help.
The system sounds great now that it's almost done. I've replaced the front and rear speakers with Phoenix Gold Rsd 6.5 and Rsd 5.25 component speakers. I had to drill 1 inch holes in the rear panels beside the existing rear speakers for the tweeters that came with the set. They came with crossovers too, to filter out any real lows, so without a sub I would have no bass at all. I just unhooked the center speaker in the dash all together. I also built a box to house my 10" Alpine R-type sub which I'm running off of an Alpine MRP-M650 amplifier. Then I rewired all of the speakers and I am running them off an Alpine MRP-F450 amplifier. One of the hardest parts of the whole thing was running 0 gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. The speakers all sound really clear with virtually no distortion, even when I have it cranked. And now I don't get any rattling from the doors like I used to from those factory subwoofer-type things that were in the doors before. I would definitely recommend it to any audiophiles out there. Thanks for all the help.
