My alignment specs -- Look good?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX
My alignment specs -- Look good?
Just got my car aligned for the 1st time, bought it 2 months ago. These are the after results.
Front left: -0.8 Camber Front right -0.9
Front left: 7.3 Caster Front right 7.5
Front left: 0.07 Toe Front right 0.05
Front cross camber: 0.1
cross caster -0.2
total toe 0.13
Rear left: -0.4 Camber Rear right -0.1
Rear left 0.00 Toe Rear right 0.05
Rear cross camber -0.3
total toe 0.05
thrust angle -0.02
Front left: -0.8 Camber Front right -0.9
Front left: 7.3 Caster Front right 7.5
Front left: 0.07 Toe Front right 0.05
Front cross camber: 0.1
cross caster -0.2
total toe 0.13
Rear left: -0.4 Camber Rear right -0.1
Rear left 0.00 Toe Rear right 0.05
Rear cross camber -0.3
total toe 0.05
thrust angle -0.02
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
Unless you are a very aggressive driver, you may need to reduce the amount of negative camber on the front end.
My car came with a full degree of negative camber from the factory, and within 1,000 miles, I got noticeable inside tire wear.
I backed off the camber 1/4 to 3/8 degree at a time until I got acceptable wear. You will need to get the camber down to no more than -1/8 degree if you are doing most of your driving on the street and not a track.
Almost every car we have put on the lift in our club has had some degree of inside tire wear. I don't mind replacing tires, but I hate to have to replace a tire that is down to the cords on the inside, and still 50% of the tread on the rest of the tire.
Did you also get new tires? How were the tires wearing BEFORE the alignment? It also helps to know what the alignment was before they changed it so you have a reference point. The factory specs are so broad, it is worthless to just say it is within factory specs. You need to keep a record of exactly what you had and what you want to change.
My car came with a full degree of negative camber from the factory, and within 1,000 miles, I got noticeable inside tire wear.
I backed off the camber 1/4 to 3/8 degree at a time until I got acceptable wear. You will need to get the camber down to no more than -1/8 degree if you are doing most of your driving on the street and not a track.
Almost every car we have put on the lift in our club has had some degree of inside tire wear. I don't mind replacing tires, but I hate to have to replace a tire that is down to the cords on the inside, and still 50% of the tread on the rest of the tire.
Did you also get new tires? How were the tires wearing BEFORE the alignment? It also helps to know what the alignment was before they changed it so you have a reference point. The factory specs are so broad, it is worthless to just say it is within factory specs. You need to keep a record of exactly what you had and what you want to change.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jul 23, 2008 at 04:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX
Unless you are a very aggressive driver, you may need to reduce the amount of negative camber on the front end.
My car came with a full degree of negative camber from the factory, and within 1,000 miles, I got noticeable inside tire wear.
I backed off the camber 1/4 to 3/8 degree at a time until I got acceptable wear. You will need to get the camber down to no more than -1/8 degree if you are doing most of your driving on the street and not a track.
Almost every car we have put on the lift in our club has had some degree of inside tire wear. I don't mind replacing tires, but I hate to have to replace a tire that is down to the cords on the inside, and still 50% of the tread on the rest of the tire.
Did you also get new tires? How were the tires wearing BEFORE the alignment? It also helps to know what the alignment was before they changed it so you have a reference point. The factory specs are so broad, it is worthless to just say it is within factory specs. You need to keep a record of exactly what you had and what you want to change.
My car came with a full degree of negative camber from the factory, and within 1,000 miles, I got noticeable inside tire wear.
I backed off the camber 1/4 to 3/8 degree at a time until I got acceptable wear. You will need to get the camber down to no more than -1/8 degree if you are doing most of your driving on the street and not a track.
Almost every car we have put on the lift in our club has had some degree of inside tire wear. I don't mind replacing tires, but I hate to have to replace a tire that is down to the cords on the inside, and still 50% of the tread on the rest of the tire.
Did you also get new tires? How were the tires wearing BEFORE the alignment? It also helps to know what the alignment was before they changed it so you have a reference point. The factory specs are so broad, it is worthless to just say it is within factory specs. You need to keep a record of exactly what you had and what you want to change.
Ok these are the fixes:
caster on the right front was at 6.7 and corrected to 7.5
cross caster for the front was at 0.6 and corrected to -0.2
left toe at the rear was at 0.54 and corrected to 0.00
right toe at rear was 0.11 and corrected to 0.05
rear total toe was at 0.65 and corrected to 0.05
rear thrust angle was at 0.22 and corrected to -0.02
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
I threw on a new set of tires about a month before the alignment. Yes the front tires were worn on the inside edge significantly. I was going to get an alignment shortly after the tires but things always seem to come up.
Ok these are the fixes:
caster on the right front was at 6.7 and corrected to 7.5
cross caster for the front was at 0.6 and corrected to -0.2
left toe at the rear was at 0.54 and corrected to 0.00
right toe at rear was 0.11 and corrected to 0.05
rear total toe was at 0.65 and corrected to 0.05
rear thrust angle was at 0.22 and corrected to -0.02
Ok these are the fixes:
caster on the right front was at 6.7 and corrected to 7.5
cross caster for the front was at 0.6 and corrected to -0.2
left toe at the rear was at 0.54 and corrected to 0.00
right toe at rear was 0.11 and corrected to 0.05
rear total toe was at 0.65 and corrected to 0.05
rear thrust angle was at 0.22 and corrected to -0.02
If you had inside tire wear before, and did not reduce the negative camber, you will still have significant inside tire wear.
I would still go back to the alignment shop and tell them to back off the negative camber.
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