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Removing front rotors?

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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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Default Removing front rotors?

OK, I've got the caliper out of the way and the pads out, but do I need to remove the caliper bracket to get the rotors off? Those 13/16 bolts will not budge!

The whole reason I'm removing them is to get them turned because the front pass. side has a grove wore in it from the pads. I've never seen this before. I could have swore it was going to be from the metal pad replace indicator, but I have at least .25" worth of pad left before I even get to that point.

Should I even bother turning the rotors or just replace the pads?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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You probably just got a pebble between the pad and the rotor. My original rotors had several small grooves in them from small pebbles getting stuck between the pad and rotor. I didn't notice any change in braking.

If you just put new pads on they will conform to the shape of the rotor. As far as having them turned thats up to you. I don't know the depth of the groove so I can't comment.

The caliper bracket does need to come off to remove the rotor. They are torqued to 125 ft./lbs so it will take some effort to get them off. Per the service manual you are not supposed to re-use the caliper bracket bolts once they are removed. Evidently they are torque to yield bolts. Several people including myself have re-used them without issue. I was going to replace mine but nobody had them in stock. If you do re-use them make sure you clean all the old loc-tite off and reapply with loc-tite. Don't remeber if you are supposed to use red or blue but maybe someone else will chime in.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Qu1ck1
OK, I've got the caliper out of the way and the pads out, but do I need to remove the caliper bracket to get the rotors off? Those 13/16 bolts will not budge!

The whole reason I'm removing them is to get them turned because the front pass. side has a grove wore in it from the pads. I've never seen this before. I could have swore it was going to be from the metal pad replace indicator, but I have at least .25" worth of pad left before I even get to that point.

Should I even bother turning the rotors or just replace the pads?

Thanks!
the bolts are 21mm-not 13/16
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hilton head 50th
the bolts are 21mm-not 13/16
Oops, that 13/16 is a darn good fit!
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverspeed
You probably just got a pebble between the pad and the rotor. My original rotors had several small grooves in them from small pebbles getting stuck between the pad and rotor. I didn't notice any change in braking.

If you just put new pads on they will conform to the shape of the rotor. As far as having them turned thats up to you. I don't know the depth of the groove so I can't comment.

The caliper bracket does need to come off to remove the rotor. They are torqued to 125 ft./lbs so it will take some effort to get them off. Per the service manual you are not supposed to re-use the caliper bracket bolts once they are removed. Evidently they are torque to yield bolts. Several people including myself have re-used them without issue. I was going to replace mine but nobody had them in stock. If you do re-use them make sure you clean all the old loc-tite off and reapply with loc-tite. Don't remeber if you are supposed to use red or blue but maybe someone else will chime in.
After reading this, I decided to replace the pads only. I can live with one small grove. I've got 31K on the stock rotors and feel no warping in the wheel or anything, so I'll let them live this time around. Next time, I'll be purchasing a 1/2" drive 21mm socket and breaker bar to get the caliper brackets off.

Thanks for the replies!
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Qu1ck1
After reading this, I decided to replace the pads only. I can live with one small grove. I've got 31K on the stock rotors and feel no warping in the wheel or anything, so I'll let them live this time around. Next time, I'll be purchasing a 1/2" drive 21mm socket and breaker bar to get the caliper brackets off.

Thanks for the replies!
If it's just a small groove I wouldn't worry about it. Might want to also invest in a torque wrench also if you don't have one because the braket bolts need to be re torqed when you put them back on. I had a pretty short torque wrench so getting 125 was a little tricky.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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The caliper bracket bolts are NOT torque to yield. The new bolts are simply pre coated with locktite.

Tom
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TCW
The caliper bracket bolts are NOT torque to yield. The new bolts are simply pre coated with locktite.

Tom

So the service manual says they must be replaced because they have loc-tite on them? Not saying you are wrong, but that doesn't seem to make much since. Anyway, I didn't replace mine and haven't had any trouble.

What does it say on exhaust manifold bolts, the are installed with loc-tite as well.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverspeed
So the service manual says they must be replaced because they have loc-tite on them?
Nope. I'm just saying that these bolts are not torque to yield bolts.

My GUESS is that GM fears somebody will reuse these bolts without new locktite and have a brake issue because one or more of these bolts backed out and caused a problem.

Tom
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TCW
Nope. I'm just saying that these bolts are not torque to yield bolts.

My GUESS is that GM fears somebody will reuse these bolts without new locktite and have a brake issue because one or more of these bolts backed out and caused a problem.

Tom
Understand. How do you tell if a bolt is torque to yield or not? Did you read this somewhere? By the torque value/size? Material?
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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Well, after the pads were replaced, before the wheels went back on, the oil drain plug and filter were giving me a look like "Hey stupid!! Over here!!" So I took advantage of the situation and changed the oil.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Qu1ck1
Oops, that 13/16 is a darn good fit!
All automobile's including American have been metric since 1975.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TCW
The caliper bracket bolts are NOT torque to yield. The new bolts are simply pre coated with locktite.

Tom
If you buy the GM pads, on a lot of cars they will come with new bolts, and I agree it is just to make sure they get put back with loctite. I was going to replace the bracket bolts one time, and the dealer only carried one in stock, so I think even the dealer only replaces them if they break one.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jul 27, 2008 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
If you buy the GM pads, on a lot of cars they will come with new bolts, and I agree it is just to make sure they get put back with loctite. I was going to replace the bracket bolts one time, and the dealer only carried one in stock, so I think even the dealer only replaces them if they break one.
Clean the bolts and use loctite blue? or other?
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by VET4LES
All automobile's including American have been metric since 1975.
Why do you think that is? I say it has something to do with the fact that so much of American cars are built/manufactured outside the U.S.
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