Bleeding the ABS?
Is there ANY way to bleed the ABS unit without taking it to a dealer or using a Tech 2? My sister has a consumer grade scan tool but I'm not sure which one. Any chance that might work? Or anything else? I don't want to pay over $100 just for the dealer to push a few buttons on their scan tool.
I let the MC run dry because the calipers were off the car for a few days, but I've done that on my previous cars (Mustang GT, Infiniti G35C) and never had to bleed the ABS units, even though the service manual said it was necessary.
Be real careful not to get any fluid on anything. Cover everything.
If you've got some slippery pavement nearby, do some abs stops.
Then rebleed all four corners. Order - RR, LF, LR, RF.
If it's still soft, just going to need to use a scanner like a tech 2, then manually rebleed all four corners again after the scanner activated abs bleed.
But, to me it sounds like the air is in the mc not the ABS unit.
If you do not get the air out of the master cylinder, you will never get a firm pedal. You may have to take the master cylinder off and bench bleed, but you can try it on the car first.
I replaced a master cylinder recently, and found that if you are patient and let the master cylinder gravity bleed with the brake lines off, you will get most of the air out. Then connect the brake lines, and purge the air out of the ports.
Have someone press the pedal and hold it down. Then crack the rear brake line to bleed the air out. Tighten the fitting and repeat until you do not see any more bubbles. (should take only a couple of times.) Repeat for the front brake line. Then manually bleed all the calipers. The ports on the ABS and Active Handling circuits should normally be closed, so you can manually bleed the system until you do not see any bubbles at each caliper.
Did your master cylinder still drain, even with the cap on the reservoir? I have had brake lines loose to paint calipers, and lost only a few drops. If you leave the cap off the reservoir, then the fluid will flow more freely.
I found that to be true even with the master cylinder off the car. With the cap off, the fluid ran through as fast as I could pour it in, but with the cap on, the flow stopped and I was able to get it on the car without getting fluid on anything.
By the way, I got an inexpensive plastic storage container, cut slots in it for the brake lines, and put it under the master cylinder to catch any fluid that dripped when I bled the ports. Worked perfectly. Did not get a drop on the frame or anything below the master cylinder.
Also, it is normal for the pedal to be firm with all the air off the vacuum booster, then feel softer when the engine is started and you get assistance from the booster.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jul 28, 2008 at 06:24 PM.
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