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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 02:08 AM
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Default asp underdrive

Can anyone please list the steps to do one the best way?
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 09:00 AM
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Rock,
There are 2 methods to do this. Basically you need to get the steering rack out of the way to take off and remove the pulley. One method is to remove the steering rack, or more accurately slide it to the passenger's side out of the way, the other is to support the engine and lower the k-member. I prefer lowering the k-member but either way works.

While you are in there you may want to think about pinning the crank to avoid the dreaded bolt back out.

If there is any interest in a complete list of steps I could try and pull them off the top of my head. I actually just did this last week to take off my ASP. Had to go back to stock for a blower.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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How much HP does an underdrive pulley add alone?

Also, what vendors sell the part? I'll want to throw one on when I do a cam.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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I've seen around 5 rwhp.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking...5-7rwhp
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Default Charging issues?

Some tuners (OK, one tuner) are saying that there are charging problems with the UD pulley, so they want to sell me (1) an overdrive alternator pulley, or (2) a high-output alternator.

(1) seems like it would defeat the purpose of the UD

(2) seems like a way to maximize their revenue.


Real world experiences ? ? ?

I have a battery tender that is usually on mine when it is parked in the garage.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 12:43 PM
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I have seen no problems with my UD pulley. No messages, no dimming lights, no drain on the alt gauge, nothing. If you REALLY wanted to be ****, you could just increase the idle 15% to compensate for the 15% reduction in the pulley and you'd be back to square one.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 01:14 PM
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Thanx, that is what I thought.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by clevitekid
Some tuners (OK, one tuner) are saying that there are charging problems with the UD pulley, so they want to sell me (1) an overdrive alternator pulley, or (2) a high-output alternator.

(1) seems like it would defeat the purpose of the UD

(2) seems like a way to maximize their revenue.


Real world experiences ? ? ?

I have a battery tender that is usually on mine when it is parked in the garage.
Used them in the past with no issues, I think there 25 percent and about 10 rwhp. Just more work here with the rack in the way.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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Craigster05: What power increase did you have? I am thinking of doing one also. I here it is labor intensive.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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Were they not so labor intensive I would have one on my car already. They are good for almost a tenth in 1/4 et. Get a little better fuel mileage and your accessories turn slower so they will last longer. Good protection too for the alternator and AC compressor at high rpm. I don't believe our compressors turn off at WOT so the pulley would certainly be good protection for it.

I got almost .2 et improvment on my old 88 Mustang with a three pulley system.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 03:39 PM
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most cam swaps require an increse of idle, so dont worry about the alternator turning too slow.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jmudreamvette
Craigster05: What power increase did you have? I am thinking of doing one also. I here it is labor intensive.
Cant really tell for sure, as we put in the pulley when we did the L92/L76 conversion and a cam swap all at the same time. I picked up about 100RWHP overall. You can figure an UD to be about 5HP or so, but the labor is very intensive. Most feel unless you are doing a cam swap at the same time, it is not worth the bang per buck.

This pic will give you an idea of what needs to come off to get to the pulley...this is my engine after the new pulley was in. The radiator, condensor, steering rack, shroud etc all had to come out.


Last edited by Craigster05; Aug 7, 2008 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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I'm doing a cam install right now, and the shop is installing an underdrive pulley while they have everything apart.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Craigster05
Cant really tell for sure, as we put in the pulley when we did the L92/L76 conversion and a cam swap all at the same time. I picked up about 100RWHP overall. You can figure an UD to be about 5HP or so, but the labor is very intensive. Most feel unless you are doing a cam swap at the same time, it is not worth the bang per buck.

This pic will give you an idea of what needs to come off to get to the pulley...this is my engine after the new pulley was in. The radiator, condensor, steering rack, shroud etc all had to come out.

Thanks, The ASP website shows 25 percent reduction
plus they are worth a solid 10 plus rwhp. I have had two of them. They are nice mod. Web site says dyno'd 13 on a ls-1 and 2-3 mpg and .2 in the 1/4. For 249.00 and the trouble
no one would do them for only 5hp.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:28 PM
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Pulleys WORK

You'll gain 5-10rwhp

They are a PITA to install, so unless you want to do it yourself (and have the know-how to do it), it's not worth the gain to pay a shop to install it.

/End thread.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by StoplightWarrior
Pulleys WORK

You'll gain 5-10rwhp

They are a PITA to install, so unless you want to do it yourself (and have the know-how to do it), it's not worth the gain to pay a shop to install it.
. . . which is why most people install them in conjunction with a camshaft upgrade .
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