When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone experienced a very stiff clutch pedal or pedal not returning to the top after a hard blast through the gears? I don't think the clutch is slipping but I'm not 100% sure. I don't even have to shift it hard to cause the problem. I can just do a WOT pull through most of 3rd and/or 4th then when I let off and shift to 5th or 6th the pedal is very stiff. I can then take it easy for a couple minutes and the clutch is back to normal.
I have used the turkey baster/Ranger method to replace the fluid several times but still no difference.
Ahhh Phil.....you too? Blame SpinMoster and his crazy power combos. It's the clutch, mine is doing it too. Our cars dont have the Z06 clutches like the 07s and up....the clutch is protesting all that extra power. It's time you and I fly Spin back to the coast, we can do ours both in tandem, I hear Joe (RacerX) has a great garage to work in.
Right now, I'm down to either:
1) Z06 clutch with a Fidanza flywheel
2) Textrailia X-grip
Still doing research while I baby it along a while.
Ahhh Phil.....you too? Blame SpinMoster and his crazy power combos. It's the clutch, mine is doing it too. Our cars dont have the Z06 clutches like the 07s and up....the clutch is protesting all that extra power. It's time you and I fly Spin back to the coast, we can do ours both in tandem, I hear Joe (RacerX) has a great garage to work in.
Right now, I'm down to either:
1) Z06 clutch with a Fidanza flywheel
2) Textrailia X-grip
Still doing research while I baby it along a while.
I've been thinking the same thing! Not sure if Spin is ready to travel back yet but as soon as he is ready and I can find a 2008 diff and the trans case parts so we can do the 4.10's at the same time.
Coming home I just stood on mine from about 3500 in 4th all the way to just under 7k and it started flashing service ABS and service traction control. Not sure what that means but never seen that one before!
Last edited by pwoolford; Aug 20, 2008 at 05:31 PM.
How/why does a Z06 clutch solve the problem? My car does it all the time, flush, refill & I couple hard passes & right back. As soon as the clutch cools the car shifts fine & never slips at any point. If it gets hot enough it will basically stop working, can't shift w/ it fully depressed.
The main reason for the question, is I have a friend who has a Z06 & his does the same thing. The car is slightly modded: headers, CAI & tune the main difference is when he flushes his fluid it lasts a while where mine is induceable in one or two 1-4 blasts on fresh fluid.
If my clutch operates fine otherwise & both my & a Z06 seem to be cooking the fluid what is the exact problem & fix. I understand the added power creates heat & the heat is responisble for the degredation of the fluid, but I could really use a detailed explaination so I understand the mechanics of the failure/malfunction.
Well, a Z06 clutch is designed to handle more HP for one. My car stock was 339 RWHP, it is now almost 500 RWHP...that's why mine is slipping, not to mention mine was recalled when I first got it for a misaligned clutch disc that would cause premature failure. Since the dealer had never done one, I didnt want them experimenting on mine. When the fluid degrades, the weakness of the clutch or pressure plate become more evident. I guess the strong clutch takes longer to show the fluid issue. Maybe someone with actual facts can jump in for us.
But the fluid cooking is more of the design. The turkey baster method never fully swaps the entire fuild. When I do my clutch, I will insulate the lines better and install a remote bleeder so I can do a complete flush regularly.
I think I can get Spin back anytime. A plane ticket, Bellagio's pizza and Houlihan's ribs in Bar-B-Que sauce can work wonders with the big guy...
I just put mine up on the lift and tied [what I think is] the line to the clutch fluid reservoir a little further away from the header. I'm going to wrap the line with a little more heat wrap too.
The thing really confusing me is why the service ABS and service traction control came on? It's never done that. Could the traction control system confuse clutch slipping with rear wheel spin?
Well, a Z06 clutch is designed to handle more HP for one. My car stock was 339 RWHP, it is now almost 500 RWHP...that's why mine is slipping, not to mention mine was recalled when I first got it for a misaligned clutch disc that would cause premature failure. Since the dealer had never done one, I didnt want them experimenting on mine. When the fluid degrades, the weakness of the clutch or pressure plate become more evident. I guess the strong clutch takes longer to show the fluid issue. Maybe someone with actual facts can jump in for us.
But the fluid cooking is more of the design. The turkey baster method never fully swaps the entire fuild. When I do my clutch, I will insulate the lines better and install a remote bleeder so I can do a complete flush regularly.
I think I can get Spin back anytime. A plane ticket, Bellagio's pizza and Houlihan's ribs in Bar-B-Que sauce can work wonders with the big guy...
Thanks for the reply, but I am still in the dark. What's odd, is my clutch does show any signs of slipping, never, it's just the pedal sticking, which if hot enough will prevent shifting, very briefly 10-15 secs, til it cools, then back to normal.
Spin, we're wainting. Lol. Anyone else? How 'bout a vendor who's had to seen this time & time again after modding someones car.
Has anyone experienced a very stiff clutch pedal or pedal not returning to the top after a hard blast through the gears? I don't think the clutch is slipping but I'm not 100% sure. I don't even have to shift it hard to cause the problem. I can just do a WOT pull through most of 3rd and/or 4th then when I let off and shift to 5th or 6th the pedal is very stiff. I can then take it easy for a couple minutes and the clutch is back to normal.
I have used the turkey baster/Ranger method to replace the fluid several times but still no difference.
Some early '05's were defective and there's a TSB.
As opposed to bringing it in for repairs. Having them order the wrong parts. Then screwing up something else in the process, as well as scratching the paint and tearing the seats.
As opposed to bringing it in for repairs. Having them order the wrong parts. Then screwing up something else in the process, as well as scratching the paint and tearing the seats.
With the link w/ the service bulliten, can I assume after the warrenty period you're on your own.
Has anyone experienced a very stiff clutch pedal or pedal not returning to the top after a hard blast through the gears? I don't think the clutch is slipping but I'm not 100% sure. I don't even have to shift it hard to cause the problem. I can just do a WOT pull through most of 3rd and/or 4th then when I let off and shift to 5th or 6th the pedal is very stiff. I can then take it easy for a couple minutes and the clutch is back to normal.
I have used the turkey baster/Ranger method to replace the fluid several times but still no difference.
Mine does the exact same thing. After a drag strip run I have to pump the pedal on the return road, after 3-4 pumps it's back to normal.
It was perfect until I put in the cam and I've turkey baster'd the fluid before and after track events since the car was new, so it's the additional power that caused it. I had to take out the clutch spring to keep the pedal from sticking down and ruining my drag strip runs.
I'm just living with it, the clutch never slips so I'm holding off replacing it as long as I can. When I drive normally to/from work the clutch works perfectly.