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your code is an L terminal code and can mean many things. I agree 12.5 at idle is a bit low but within range accding to GM.
Just for grins, let it idle until the rad fans go to high and put the A/C on. I bet it will drop into the 11 V range.
Again GM will say this is "normal range".
Since you replaced the alt and the battery, that only leaves the ECM which had to put a .5 V to the alt to signal it to charge the battery. Could the ECM be bad? Yep but to keep it simple have you or the tech check for .5 V from the ECM to the alt at idle. OR, have the replace the ECM from the get go. If you have mods you will lose your tune though.
IF it still gives the message on the DIC you can:
1) bump up your idle approx 75 rpm if you have a stock set up and the idle is at the stock setting
if this doesnt help then:
2)Have a tuner disable that cose because it probably is coming on due to a drop in votage low enough to trigger it but it is so fast and so brief you cannot see it on the guages but the ecm can
or..
3) call/pm TLewis4095. He has a HO alt that wont heat soak and has a smaller pulley so it puts out more V's
4) or a combo of the above.
I had the code disabled and put the HO alt on. Running this way for some time. Guage readings indicate a more consistant V reading a bit higher than 12.5 (approx 13V)at idle and will stay a little higher longer at idle in the heat with rad fans on with A/c blasting. The changes are not big but enough to make me more relaxed about my charging system afyer getting the DIC message.
I just parked it for 8 days and it fired right up. Not to say it wouldnt have without the changes.
i dont know without testing,that way you dont waste time and money replacing parts ya dont need and run the risk of making other issues with faulty installation of parts. todays cars dont like boost chargers and voltage spikes
Good info here. I have the same sears charger with the start option. Sounds like it is not a player for the vette.
Not a auto mechanic by any means but I do alot of marine stuff on my boats, Did you check the cable from alt and the ground. I find a lot of battery related issues are the ground or the pos. battery cable. The quality of most cable is poor and if you are sending or using alot of juice or the cable is subject to high temp. they degrad. IMHO>
Also.... I checked the 3 wires coming out of the top of the alternator, and they are all giving out voltage. I just don't know what the right readings should be.
The car at idle is asking the alternator for 100 amps which is very very high. This causes the voltage to go down. The alternator gets very hot as does the red wire behind the alt. I a jumper cable from the alt to the post under the hood byepasing that cable but it still is calling for 100 amps.
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by orangecrrrush
UPDATE:
The car at idle is asking the alternator for 100 amps which is very very high. This causes the voltage to go down. The alternator gets very hot as does the red wire behind the alt. I a jumper cable from the alt to the post under the hood byepasing that cable but it still is calling for 100 amps.
any ideas?
How do you know that? I'm curious. I didn't know there was a way to see that.