I have a base 2008 C6 manual trans, and I have a set of R1 DOT legal autocross tires on a second set of rims from my C4. Yesterday at Streets of Willow I was black-flagged in three laps with my new Porterfield R4S pads smoking horribly and the fluid boiling in the front calipers. The brakes came back and I got the car to work by taking out the two ABS fuses. I had tried to turn off the traction stuff but only got traction control "on" or "off" (I chose "off", although I would have preferred trying "competition"), the competition mode and full off (5 secs of holding the button down) were not available. I picked "off" as my best option, but the brakes were going on frequently. My theory is that not having the tire pressure sensors made the computer not allow me to turn off the traction stuff, and it even put on the brakes going in a straight line! I thought the engine was not being allowed full throttle, but I think it was putting the brakes on in ANY situation. Has anybody worked out the fix? install sensors in my 18 in track wheels? go to a computer wizard and have the traction stuff disconnected? I would like to keep all the stuff working, or have a real "off" for track use. How easy is it to have sensors in a second set of wheels and change back and forth. What do I need to recalibrate the tire pressure sensor system when I change wheels?

 

you cant turn the sensors off, no computer whiz can tune it out, put sensors in the tires then you have to recalibrate each time you switch as the pcm can only recognize 4 at a time or you can build a canister for the sensors

 

Also dont pull the ABS fuse. The Corvette uses the ABS to distribute brake power, you will get amazing lock up and front bite if you dont have the ABS working (learn from experience)

 

Thanks guys. I talked to Revolution Supply Company on sensors and tools (an advertiser on our forum) and they sell their Orange Brand sensors for $45 that will work with my car. They believe I need to buy the Barr Tool 300 at $389 to reset (with the reset instructions in the owners manual). They sell the tool as well. I called my favorite local Chevy dealer and the parts and service both said the same. Has anybody tried a magnet without the diagnostic tool? (Save $). I'm going to try to change my login to C6jgriffin to not confuse people.

 

Why not just put your current sensors in a cannister and forget the rest of it.

 

Do a search, I think you can get a reset tool for about $200.00

 

The old and simple way of using a common magnet won't work... the new and 'improved' sensors (note subtle sarcasm) need a $200+ tool just to do the exact same job as a $1 magnet did on the pre-C6 cars.

Thanks GM!

 

Build yourself a PVC pipe bomb and drill 5 holes in the side. 4 for the sensors and 1 for the schrader valve. Pressuize to 35psi, throw it in the trunk somewhere and go drive your car with any wheels/tires you want.

 

Very clever...

 

Drill *5* holes? As described, you would have 4 valve stems sticking out, any of which could be used to pressurize the canister. What's the 5th hole & schrader valve for?

 

Don't know what the schrader valve is for - because you could fill it from any of the TPS's as you said.

BUT!! I recall that TPS's only transmit their signal when they are in motion - as in turning with the wheels - this is to preserve battery power. So if they are sitting in a pipe bomb "motionless" in the trunk, I am not so sure they would transmit a signal and the PCM would start with its tricks.....

Interesting to see if Norty actually has done this successfully...

 

Hi guys. Thanks. I decided I want to know the tire pressures for the racing, so I will be trying the "Orange" sensors at $45 each, and I'll do a search for the reset tool. My car works fine with the race wheels in the back, stock on the front, and the stock wheels for the rear in the trunk. I immediately got back the competition mode and the five second "off" which were missing without the four sensors near the car. I will try all four race wheels on the car and see how it runs. I did this before (without driving 125 miles with the stock fronts and race rears) and didn't have the problems I had at Streets with the brakes being applied in the straights. I only had to turn the traction to competition, even on public roads, or I couldn't get acceleration under throttle, I assume because the tire height was too similar. The complexity of the computer controls is way beyond my comprehension.

note PM: I found the Bartec Wheelrite Trackside for $140 from Jim or Rich at Wright tool 1-800-783-9826, its on order. Thanks.