fuel rail painting
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,656
Likes: 7
From: Bay Shore, NY 11706 MILD2WILD (M2W)
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
Likes: 265
From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
I painted mine 2 years ago and they still look perfect. I used Rustoleum plastic paint and cleaned them first with paint thinner.
I then bought chrome "Corvette" letters. I paid < $10 for paint and $40 for the letters. I like that price.
I then bought chrome "Corvette" letters. I paid < $10 for paint and $40 for the letters. I like that price.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,335
Likes: 0
From: Eagle River AK
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'14
I did mine. I sanded using 300 grit sandpaper until fairly smooth then made sure they were very clean. I then applied 2 coats of primer followed by 3 or 4 light coats of the base color. That was followed by a bunch of clear coat - maybe five coats. Between every coat of primer, paint, clear I wiped down the FRCs with a tack rag. Any pieces of dirt were easily removed with a touch of 2000 grit. These still need to be polished out with some polishing compound but I had to get them off my work bench before they got scratched. The red letters came from Zips. They are acrylic and sit flush. My paint was mixed by an automotive paint store here in town and put in a rattle can. The cap set and fuze box cover came from the gentleman in post 2 above.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 2
From: Naples FL
I cleaned them first with some dawn dish soap to remove grease and grime then after it was 100% dry I did 2-3 light coats of plastic primer (I didn't want the paint to run so I did many light coats to ensure full coverage). I then used a silver spray paint designed for plastic and followed it up with a small paint brush and a touch up bottle of black paint. Take your time and don't cut corners!
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 157
Likes: 65
From: Hollywood Florida
I'm planning on doing this also, but I do have a question: How do I get the plastic cover (driver's side) off? Should I disconnect the braided hose or bend and flex the cover past it. Any sugguestions? 
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Michael S. Palmer
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,950
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From: St. Louis, MO
St. Jude Donor '08
I usually use some blue tape on mine now that it's painted.
The 90 degree turn is the secret to it.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,489
Likes: 1
From: Livermore California
Actually not hard, and I have little to no skill with paint. Well, a little now. I sanded the OEMs smooth, then used VR and a metalic silver followed by clear. Wet sand at every step up to the final clearcoat. The lettering is "ultrachrome". My car sees high temps at the track and I've noticed a slight yellowing of the metalic silver . . . preventable if I'd only take 'em off . . . but no peeling after 18 months.
That's a pipedreams battery cover.
FM
That's a pipedreams battery cover.
FM
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 200
From: Wilkes-Barre Pa
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 46,295
Likes: 2,596
From: Northern, VA
St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Also, I've heard but don't know it for a fact that you can get a rattle can of paint made up for you. I don't know how to get it done, but I might suggest getting a can of the original paint color from the dealer (or Gene Culley) and bringing it to body/paint shops for them to mix a can for you. For plastic, of course. A big, tall can since you'll probably want to make several passes over the FRCs.
Ed, Pipedreams is right: preparation is the key ingredient, and patience. Good luck and show us the end results.
Last edited by AORoads; Sep 29, 2008 at 07:39 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 200
From: Wilkes-Barre Pa
Also, I've heard but don't know it for a fact that you can get a rattle can of paint made up for you. I don't know how to get it done, but I might suggest getting a can of the original paint color from the dealer (or Gene Culley) and bringing it to body/paint shops for them to mix a can for you. For plastic, of course. A big, tall can since you'll probably want to make several passes over the FRCs.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 200
From: Wilkes-Barre Pa
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 5
From: Owensboro Kentucky
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
There is not enough clear on them to sand smooth and buff. You should use 600 grit sandpaper and sand smooth, even if you get down to the plastic in a few areas (try keeping this to a minimum though). If you then put a couple coats of basecoat and a couple wet coats of clear, you will be amazed at how much better they will look.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 5
From: Owensboro Kentucky
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
You would know the second you started sanding if they were clear coated or not. If the residue looks milky, they have been cleared. If the residue immediately has color, then they were painted with a single stage urethane, which basically has the clear coat mixed in with the paint instead of it being used as a final top coat.
