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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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Default interior removal

i have removed the rear interior and put down the B-Quiet product and had great results reducing interior noise from exhaust. That was an easy project.
I now want to insulate the front area. i will need to remove seats, etc. Does anyone know where there are detailed instructions on the removal of the interior. This looks to be much more challenging.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:44 PM
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I've had the interior out of my convertible. It's not a tough job. There are just three pieces. The driver and passenger areas are each a single piece and the piece behind the seats is one piece. You have to remove the seats, the rocker panel trim on each side, the throttle pedal stop and the drivers foot rest. You don't have to remove the console, it will pull out from under it.
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Old Oct 2, 2008 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000C-5
I've had the interior out of my convertible. It's not a tough job. There are just three pieces. The driver and passenger areas are each a single piece and the piece behind the seats is one piece. You have to remove the seats, the rocker panel trim on each side, the throttle pedal stop and the drivers foot rest. You don't have to remove the console, it will pull out from under it.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by danl72
Thanks, i was hoping it would be that simple. any tricks to removing seats? i know battery should be disconneted after seats are moved forward.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by youout
Thanks, i was hoping it would be that simple. any tricks to removing seats? i know battery should be disconneted after seats are moved forward.
Yep, lay a towel or something over the console and the rocker molding if you haven't already taken it out first, so they don't get scratched. Other than that, take off the back two nuts and the front two nuts, unplug electrics and airbags, lift out.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by youout
Thanks, i was hoping it would be that simple. any tricks to removing seats? i know battery should be disconneted after seats are moved forward.
If you have the seat mounted side airbags (i.e., anything but the base interior), you *must* disconnect the battery for 15 min prior to unplugging the seats. If you dont have the side airbags, battery disconnect is a good idea, but purely optional.

I always remove the 4 nuts holding each seat in place (battery still connected so I can freely move the seat back and forth to access the mounts), and *then* disconnect the battery before taking the final step of lifting and unplugging the seat.

Simple but Helpful tip: It makes the job a lot easier to have a long extension of 18 inches or so on your ratchet (between the socket and the ratchet handle). This gives you a lot more room to spin the ratchet handle, instead of trying to turn it around down near the relatively crowded seat base. If you don't already have a long extension, this is the perfect excuse to buy one!

Last edited by Kent1999; Oct 3, 2008 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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As previously stated, it isn't really difficult and it is pretty intuitive. A shop manual helps. Here is a pic with the stuff out:



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Old Oct 3, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by johnodrake
As previously stated, it isn't really difficult and it is pretty intuitive. A shop manual helps. Here is a pic with the stuff out:

Now just how did you get pictures of my car?

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Old Oct 4, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000C-5
Yep, lay a towel or something over the console and the rocker molding if you haven't already taken it out first, so they don't get scratched. Other than that, take off the back two nuts and the front two nuts, unplug electrics and airbags, lift out.
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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thanks for the help and pictures. got my B quiet material today and will start the project soon.

MDH
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by youout
thanks for the help and pictures. got my B quiet material today and will start the project soon.

MDH
This is going to be one of my winter projects. Good information! Where did you get the material (B quiet) and why did you decide on that particular one?
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sea six
This is going to be one of my winter projects. Good information! Where did you get the material (B quiet) and why did you decide on that particular one?
found on the web. i used it in the trunk area and it did a great job with the sound, also reduces heat. Here is their web site. I went with the ultimate product.

http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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Hey youout how much product did it take to do the rear floor and how many layers did you use? I have BXT RAAMmat that I haven,t installed yet.Im hoping that it will get rid of the drone.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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I used about 80% of one roll of the B Quiet ultimate material which was one layer. The cost is about $119. I now have another roll and the left over to do the front. That should make a big difference in sound and heat. since doing a cam and having headers it increased the DB level a noticable amount.
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Last edited by youout; Oct 30, 2008 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000C-5
I've had the interior out of my convertible. It's not a tough job. There are just three pieces. The driver and passenger areas are each a single piece and the piece behind the seats is one piece. You have to remove the seats, the rocker panel trim on each side, the throttle pedal stop and the drivers foot rest. You don't have to remove the console, it will pull out from under it.
But you should remove the console, since you should insulate under it as well if you are going to all that trouble. Console is not difficult either. You already have the waterfall out (if it is a vert). There are two plugs in the rear that cover the 10mm nuts and then there are two 7mm screws in the front. You also need to move the hand brake boot.
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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Very Nice Job with The pictures.... How long does this job take . make it 2 parts like . trunk then seat area... my car is also a convert. How many rolls do I need. And is it worth it to do this job .... Thanks again for your information Buddy... I love my Vette ,,, Its been 3 Years so far..
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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I had mine done by a pro http://cascadeaudio.com/automotive_a...udio_craft.htm
It took about 40 hours to put down 3 layers of soundproofing and heat shield. removal of the seats and the console was the easy part. if you do a search there where a couple of threads on the subject
Mike
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