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Mathematically-based 0-60 mph calculator

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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 10:09 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MTVette
No problem, Glenn. Everybody here already knows the equations for velocity and acceleration, but mostly for constant acceleration. This model, with a third-order polynomial for distance, invokes a varying acceleration, and hence we must use calculus to derive the velocity. Real-world track performance does exhibit variable acceleration, so we need a model which allows for this.
Hey, no problem, I really do like your curve fits and your spreadsheet. It's excellent work. Now if you want a real model, put in the torque curve of the engine along with the tranny gear ratios, rear end ratio, and effective tire rolling radius to determine the tractive effort. Then vary the coefficient of friction between the tire and the track. You'll also have to account for the power loss of the gear train and how that changes with speed and load. Now you'll have a model that you can vary things like rear end ratio, tire diameters, tire traction, etc. to see the effects on the quarter mile times and speeds.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MTVette
Thanks.

Even better than an accelerometer would be a direct link to the vehicle's speed sensor. That can be done with the older OBDI C4's, and probably even more easily with newer cars.
Very cool math! Thanks for posting.

And you are correct...HP Tuners scanning software will give you real 0-60 (or 0-any mph), as it graphs acceleration and time to the millisecond.

A 1.6x 60ft is a 3.3 0-60 in my car.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Very cool math! Thanks for posting.

And you are correct...HP Tuners scanning software will give you real 0-60 (or 0-any mph), as it graphs acceleration and time to the millisecond.

A 1.6x 60ft is a 3.3 0-60 in my car.
I agree. You can accurately account too when you hit the gas from the 0 mph frames along with accounting for any wheelspin in frames (mine was 1-2 shift spin at 50 mph to 70 mph and back down to 59mph) .

My 1.80 60' is a 3.60 0-60 in my car.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
I agree. You can accurately account too when you hit the gas from the 0 mph frames along with accounting for any wheelspin in frames (mine was 1-2 shift spin at 50 mph to 70 mph and back down to 59mph) .

My 1.80 60' is a 3.60 0-60 in my car.
My recent string of 1.5 60 foots were 2.7 seconds 0-60

Blowing my rear to smithereens and ruining my trans in the process means that won't be happening again any time soon!

That is some spin upon shift! Sounds to me like you need new tires. I get maybe 2-3 mph spin on shifts, and I'm a manual.

Fresh tires are a GREAT mod. I'm starting to think that heat cycles are the limiting factor in drag radials like they are with road course tires.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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Pretty neat.
Would have been nice if you didn't protect the sheet so I could list my actual 1/8 mph and do some format changes.

1.98 60' = 4.04 0-60 on runcraps.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
My recent string of 1.5 60 foots were 2.7 seconds 0-60

That is some spin upon shift! Sounds to me like you need new tires. I get maybe 2-3 mph spin on shifts, and I'm a manual.

Fresh tires are a GREAT mod. I'm starting to think that heat cycles are the limiting factor in drag radials like they are with road course tires.
Not sure I agree with that. For my A6, my 60' times (and ET's) are actually coming down as my BFG DR's get worn down. My spin is partly due to disabling Torque Reduction Upshifts and while I am loosing time on the 1-2, I have a net gain disabling it via the 2-3 shift speed gain. Also, I run only in cold weather now, less than 50* (and usually less than 45*) which also has an effect on the traction of my 1-2 shift...as where horsepower overcomes the gripping ability of the tires, the 1-2 shift is where you'll start to get wheelspin.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
Not sure I agree with that. For my A6, my 60' times (and ET's) are actually coming down as my BFG DR's get worn down. My spin is partly due to disabling Torque Reduction Upshifts and while I am loosing time on the 1-2, I have a net gain disabling it via the 2-3 shift speed gain. Also, I run only in cold weather now, less than 50* (and usually less than 45*) which also has an effect on the traction of my 1-2 shift...as where horsepower overcomes the gripping ability of the tires, the 1-2 shift is where you'll start to get wheelspin.
If you spin your tires 20 miles an hour faster than you are really going, you're losing ET...trust me.

When I spin at the launch, I'll typically go from 0 right up to 20 mph, and I get a 1.9 vs a 1.6 or better. That's .3. I would bet your best runs don't have that 20 mph spin on shifts, and if they do, your car is faster than you think it is!
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
If you spin your tires 20 miles an hour faster than you are really going, you're losing ET...trust me.

When I spin at the launch, I'll typically go from 0 right up to 20 mph, and I get a 1.9 vs a 1.6 or better. That's .3. I would bet your best runs don't have that 20 mph spin on shifts, and if they do, your car is faster than you think it is!
All my best runs have that spin, in fact, I just set a new PB with 60', 1/8 and 1/4 mile with that 20 mph spin. btw-I get no spin at launch or on the 2-3 shift. I'll be more than happy to test your theory, by you sending me some new DR's. If I go faster, I'll pay for them and buy you a new set...If I go slower, nothing to you.OK?

Last edited by siffert; Apr 19, 2009 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by siffert
All my best runs have that spin, in fact, I just set a new PB with 60', 1/8 and 1/4 mile with that 20 mph spin. btw-I get no spin at launch or on the 2-3 shift. I'll be more than happy to test your theory, by you sending me some new DR's. If I go faster, I'll pay for them and buy you a new set...If I go slower, nothing to you.OK?
heh...naa.

Tell you what. If you buy a new set, eliminate that 20 mph spin, and your times don't improve, I'll send you a dollar! Standard bet Mortimer

I'll send you an additional $1 if you know what movie that's from.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 06:28 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Tell you what. If you buy a new set, eliminate that 20 mph spin, and your times don't improve, I'll send you a dollar! Standard bet MortimerI'll send you an additional $1 if you know what movie that's from.
I'll ask the Kings of 60', Dennis, Ranger and Doc Ron and see what they say...your pal, Randolph.

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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by siffert
I'll ask the Kings of 60', Dennis, Ranger and Doc Ron and see what they say...your pal, Randolph.

I owe you $1!

Don't forget Robz, the king of all 60 footers.

View RobZ's 1.43 60 foot...
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 06:53 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
I owe you $1!

Don't forget Robz, the king of all 60 footers.
That's a C5. I think I should be asking A4 or A6 guys. What might be good for a stick isnt automatically the same for an auto.

Edit-DennisNJ says it doesnt matter...more dependant on burnout and air pressure.

Last edited by siffert; Apr 19, 2009 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
I owe you $1!

Don't forget Robz, the king of all 60 footers.

View RobZ's 1.43 60 foot...
whats this, 1.411 doesn't count because its an automatic
http://www.cartek.net/videos/dennis1062.wmv
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
whats this, 1.411 doesn't count because its an automatic
http://www.cartek.net/videos/dennis1062.wmv
I don't want to say it's harder to 60 foot a manual....we might argue about that point....

But suffice to say, and we would have to agree, we manual guys have twice as many pedals to worry about!
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
whats this, 1.411 doesn't count because its an automatic
http://www.cartek.net/videos/dennis1062.wmv
...I didnt know you set an new 60' with your 10.62. But hey, at least I got the King of 60' dead-on!
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #36  
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Thanks!
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
...I didnt know you set an new 60' with your 10.62. But hey, at least I got the King of 60' dead-on!
you sure did!! us auto guys have to stick together
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
That's a C5. I think I should be asking A4 or A6 guys. What might be good for a stick isnt automatically the same for an auto.

Edit-DennisNJ says it doesnt matter...more dependant on burnout and air pressure.
We're going pretty far off track here - why don't you throw up a new thread?

Are you saying Dennis says spinning 50 mph to 70 mph then back down doesn't matter to ET???

I know I lose major ET if I spin my tires, at the line or during shifts. If I have a bad track prep I have to shift easier (usually not due to ET concerns, but due to accident avoidance, when I spin on shifts I often go a little sideways).
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by siffert
All my best runs have that spin, in fact, I just set a new PB with 60', 1/8 and 1/4 mile with that 20 mph spin. btw-I get no spin at launch or on the 2-3 shift.
The no spin at launch is the key on the automatics. Any spin there and the 60' jumps right back to the 1.9s
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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