Hey guys...

I am putting on SS Brake Lines. Three went on alright. The last (always) is an issue. The threads on the steel brake line tube in the left rear stripped even though I was equally careful (if not more) than I was with the first three. It isn't totally stripped, but bad.

I ran a straight razor over the treads a few times to try and get them better defined. The results are in the photos.

Questions. 1) Is there a die that for this thread size? I have a tap and die set, but they are all the larger threads. 2) if I get the SS line "started" on this end, should I just force it until tight? 3) Should I buy the section on line with a new end? 4) Other suggestions?

I want to get this completed today.

Thanks!!!





Tom.

 

Tom,

Looks like you've got yourself an "issue" there.

I tried to put the SS lines on my '05 and had about the same problem on my first brake line. After consulting some on this forum, it seemed that some cars also had a similar problem due to the factory over-tighening, or the threaded nut "flairing" or expanding after the factory cranked the line on. What year is your car?

All in all, I used every bit of power or tool I could find and could NOT get the SS line on. I chose then to go back to stock and when re-attaching the stock line, it was nearly impossible. I had a slow drip from that location for a day or two and ended up having to take the car to the shop for them to "properly" tighten and bleed that line.

Good luck, I whish I could tell you more, but it sounds like these threaded brake line "nuts" are the weak link in GMs brake lines.

 

The tap you need is M10x1.0 Hope that helps.

 

Mine is a 2005 as well. The other three were tight, but worked. I was hoping that if I could get the treads to even start I could draw it up tight enough to hold. After all, I plan this to be the last time to mess with them as the Goodrich lines should last a lifetime....

 

Thanks. I will call around to see if I can find it!!

 

I had to go to a specialty fastener store to find one. Wasn't cheap either.

 

I have a 2005 and had the same problem when trying to install SS lines with Z06 brakes, etc. Had to re-shape the male end on the brake lines (used OEM Z06 lines as did not want to ruin the SS lines) so they would fit far enought inside the female end to catch the threads. Had to use a file and keep trying until they would reach threads. Had to do it on all four lines. It seemed as if there was a mis-match in parts? The original lines that just came off did not want to go back on. May have been originally mated by machine using serious force.

 

I was much more fortunate. I called Sears, Lowes and Northern Tool and a couple Auto Parts stores with no luck at all. Some had sets, but I already have a set ... and none of their sets had the 10Mx1.0 die. Then I got a great tip from one of the auto parts store guys. He said to try Wilders here Raleigh.

I had never heard of them before, but it is a nut, bolt, and fastener business that apparently has been around for a long time. No website, but I did find their basic info in online white pages. Called and they have individual dies including the one I needed. I was all set for an outrageous price. Guess what? $4.12 including tax! So, if anyone out there is in the central NC area and wants tap and die supplies or any kind of nut/bolt, they are located at 2406 Alwin Ct in Raleigh, NC 27604 It is just off of Capital Blvd. Phone: 919-833-2761

Mega thanks to Corvette Pilot for the accurate tap and die information! After tons of attempts, I finally got the tap to thread correctly and then after much more cajoling I got the SS Braided brake line to thread-up. Only time will tell I f it is going to be leak free.

Overall, I am not pleased with how long this “easy” job is taking. The Goodridge brake lines have not matched up well. It seems like they were lots better when I installed them on my 1994 Corvette a year ago.

I also pulled the calipers off and painted them. Tomorrow I will bleed the whole system with my pressure bleeder. Pop the wheels-tires back on and see if everything is tight and leak-free. I sure hope so…

 

Ok, a couple photos... Yeah, a fun place to try and work.

 

This is really great infromation. I am thinking of doing this for a winter project. Maybe on second thought, now I will take it to a good shop and just have them do it. Thanks again for the heads up.

 

that stinks, i dont know about tapping it ? I belive they are a pipe style thread and a tap would be regular threads? which would ruin it.....Double check that.
Normally if you clean them up good make sure they two adjoining parts are VERY square to each other then you can be a little agressive with it. MAKE SURE THEY ARE SQUARE TO EACH OTHER.
good luck

 

Here is a quick update friends...

The tapping seems to have worked great. Wasn't an easy place work as the photos show. But once I had it re-threaded, I was able to easily get the old line to go on. The new one was tighter, but once I got it started straight I tightened it down.

The good news is that after bleeding the whole system, bedding in the brake pads, and taking it for multiple runs around town and a couple of high speed agressive braking trials, I haven't found any leaks.

As I said before, the Goodridge Stainless Steel lines went on much better with my 1994. This time was alot harder than it should have been. Still, with help from folks here on the forum, I got it finished up. I hope this might help someone else that encounters a similar situation since those ends are pretty easy to get cross threaded or stripped.

Tom.

 

No, this is a flare fitting, the seal is actually made with the flared portion of the tube, not with the fitting. The fitting is not a tapered pipe thread, it's just a regular straight thread.

 

This exact thing happened to me when I put my stainless lines on...Left rear on my '08 was problematic just as you describe... Lots of head scratching and crawling under the car seeing how difficult it would be to splice or replace the entire line on that side (don't even THINK about that solution!). Ultimately, with a dremel, tap, and a lot of patience I got them threaded on and they've been fine for 8-9 months. I was seriously puckered up there for awhile....

 

Glad you got it fixed! I have read about others with problems with the Goodridge lines. I went with Stoptech lines myself.

 

Trust me, I know the feeling! And not on just this project either. It seems like every project has its moments...

Thanks again for your lightening fast response on the right die size with my initial post. It made a huge difference!

Tom.

 

Unfortunately I did this search to late after having problems getting the Goodridge lines to seal. They leak with no real way to get them to seal other than purchasing a better quality set of lines. I ordered the StopTech lines today. For now my car sits up on jack stands with slow drips of brake fluid coming out of the connection between the Goodridge line and the OEM hardline.

 

Coming into this thread a little late, but I have done many custom brake line builds, so here is my 2 cents.

First, before you take anything apart, stop by the local autoparts store and pick up a few of the threaded brake line fittings on the end of the factory steel line. Only a few bucks for 4-5 of them. See if they will thread into your new stainless line before you do anything! If not, your new line is the problem and you need to exchange them or get a different brand.

Second, if the fittings you bought screw in fine, but the fitting still on the car will not, then the fitting on the car is the problem. Rather than messing around with trying to run a die over the threads, just cut the damn steel line, put on one of the new threaded fittings you bought and re-flair the line. Needs to be a double-flair though for brake lines and there is a special flairing kit/tool set to do this that most any autoparts store will loan you. I own my set as I have done this so often.

Just re-flairing the line is so much easier than what you guys are trying to do with the whole re-threading thing. A tube cutter and the right flair tool and you will be done in 5 minutes.

Remember though that step one above is important as you need to know if the problem is your new line or the factory fitting on the car. And don't forget that brake lines must use a double flair!

 

Is this a problem with just the rear or the fronts too?

 

Thanx to all for the input in the thread.. you all saved me a big headache!