Every time I run into something I like to share with you guys. I might help you make a decision or point you to a fix. So read on and file this somewhere in the ole hard drive of your melon.

I had to cut short a fun run due to some crazy noise coming from my rear. No, I didn't eat too many chili dogs, something went in the back. I didn't do anything nuts so I found it hard to believe at first I broke the rear. I first heard a noise that sounded like the tire was rubbing. It got worse and more metallic to the point where I decided I had to get out of the mountains and head home. It got so loud I was sure I was going to have to get the trailer. It was a ticking and I could only figure I tweeked a CV joint in the axle. Since it was really isolated on the left side, I said it had to be an axle the rear would not resonate that far out. I'd never seen an axle fail and stay together so I was a little confused and babied it all the way home thinking it was going to pop any minute. I prepared the wife for the worse.

It got home and I took the wheel off and to my surprise I heard something clanging around inside the wheel. What? Ah... the light came on I lost the TPS. Whew.

IFORGED wheels suck. I love mine to death but they are high mx. Between getting the valve stems to seal and the sensor problems I've had nothing but trouble. But, they look hot. CCW for me next time for track wheels.

So, on to the tips. Don't use that trick fake bolt hole valve in the wheel. It never seals, at least for me. If you have trouble use a short stem in the back of the wheel or a flush mount. Those don't leak. The POS 90 degree stems do and you can't stop them.

I used the I Forged supplied TPS adaptors and they put the sensor so high we could not get the tire on. Worked for a while but then the stem leaked and had to go to a short stem. That won't work with the sensor adaptor.

So, we then banded the sensor using an aluminum bracket that goes on the band. I guess 670 ft/lbs of torque and an aluminum clamp don't play nice together. That ripped off and flew around my wheel ruining my otherwise beautiful day. There was also indication that as I really jumped on it the sensor was slipping around the wheel. Band could not get tight enough.

So, I finally went in the back of the tire shop and tried to see what's up. I got two hose clamps and secured the sensor to its bracket using rubber hose on the clamps to make sure they get a good grip on the sensor. Along with the nut that is used on the bracket, the clamps should help fight some of the centrifugal force of my monster. Now I put rubber hose on the large band clamp in key locations to keep it from sliding on the wheel under hard launches. It should grab better than just the clamp.

This is way more jerry rigging then I am confortable with. However, so far its the only thing that worked with the low profile tires and the massive tq I make.

Surprisingly I'm only having trouble with one wheel. If I get a cleaner fix, I'm going to do all of them. I don't wan't another day ruined.

Also, the sensor will only last so long rattling around the wheel. Lol, I told the tire guy to check it before he put it together and he said it was good. Its not. Back for trip 6. I have some better ideas for the clamps anyway.

Hope this helped.

 

what a pain. hardly seems worth it.

 

I got 3 good ones with no issues

Again, just another data point for folks to consider.

Hey, here is an option for $4k wheels. If you order them for a car that has TPMs, weld in a nice lil bracket that stays put and securely fixes the sensor in place. Too much to ask you say? What could it cost them, $40 a wheel?

 

do you have runflats

 

Not anymore no.

 

why not just put the sensors in a canister then

 

Well I actually like the functionality of them. Since my valve stems leak every other day. I would be willing to run without them, been doing that for 20 years. God forbid I check my tire pressures.

What is this canister? Does it read 30psi or soemthing?

 

i can see your point of having the function , but really you only need that because of the run flats you cant tell when there low by sight or feel, if you have a blowout with the regular tires the tpms wont help and a tire going flat you will feel, the canister keeps all 4 tires at whatever pressure you want without going into limp mode from too low or too high a pressure. if you want i can pm you with the things you need to make one

 

Active handling won't work without them.

 

the active handling still works because they are still in the car being read

 

When RJ forst got the car back it had 7psi of air in one of the rears and you couldnt tell it was flat. Being such a low profile, it technically is a runflat. I felt no difference when we put in 30psi. The sidewalls of the rears are 1/2 that of the stock runflats and visually there is no evidence of a flat with low pressure. Unlike the runflats they also dont make any noises to indicate low air pressure. In a way, the low profile tires are better than runflats from an EMT standpoint.

In the case of the real runflats, they emit a horrendous buzzing noise when out of air so you most certainly will know if they are low or out of air on the basis of the sound they make at low pressure. These dont.

 

This didn't work for me....

I had a similar problem to the OP with iForged wheels (which I will NEVER buy again and I urge everyone else to avoid as well).

The TPMS adapters they sent me hit the brake calipers (2-piece wheels) and the HRE universal studs I tried to rig up didn't work either becuase there's nowhere to put them on an iForged wheel where a runflat can be squeezed over them without breaking them.

In short I spent a lot of time and money trying to do something that simply didn't work.....

I used a wheelbarrow tire as a temporary solution. I kept it pressurized to 30 psi with the front sensors in it at all times (the rear sensors were actually in the tires because the larger wheels allowed the aforementioned TPMS adapters to clear the brakes.)

This fix would give me about 30-60 minutes of driving before I got the annoying "SERVICE TIRE MONITOR" message and its even more annoying yellow warning light that accompanies it.

It happened EVERY time. If I drove the car long enough, the light would come on, even with the front sensors properly pressurized. Additionally, the car didn't go into a full "limp" persay, but i can say that I DEFINITELY felt a decline in the throttle response once the light came on. The car would still go if you matted it, but it just wasn't as snappy as when the light was off. I'm guessing the PCM was retarding the ignition timing a little. I did not notice any kind of "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" message or a limit on the speed I could accelerate to.

Now I can't comment on whether or not the case would be the same with all 4 sensors in a pressurized canister, but it SEEMS to me that there may be something in the sensor that works off kinetics and knows that it's not in a rotating tire.

(In the end, I sold my iForged wheels altogether and picked up a set of significantly cheaper and surprisingly lighter Z06 Motorsport replicas. )

 

Thanks for the info - I almost purchased your old wheels until I researched your frustration...

I just ordered a set of Forglines due to the iforged problems lurking around here..

 

RJ, Sorry for your problems with your wheels, it sucks when something looks great but performs like ***.
CCWs are the best, no problems at all and I've had 6 sets of Classics when I ran an SCCA T1 C5 and 2 different sets (needed more BBK clearance) on my C6. RJ ask Spin he has seen my C140s, they are Comp grey but John at CCW can supply polished or whatever your desire. CCW may not be the ultimate bling but I love mine.
Joe

 

Glad to help...Honestly, those wheels would be GREAT for someone with base brakes. It's only the Z51 cars that would run into a problem. The clearance issue with the TPMS adapter was less than a 1/4 inch.

 

I to have had great times with John and Chip at CCW they could not be any beeter to deal with.......... Nothing I mean Nothing is to much to ask...

Sorry for you problems and frustration also - its alot of cash to buy a problem

 

this may be true, but i did rears only for about a year because of the drag radials, no problems. then i did the fronts because i got the skinnies, no problem, the canister i have lets enough movement and its hard so the sensors dont stay in sleep mode, also if i put them in the compartment it wouldnt read right some times deadcenter of the net works great, its been over 2 years and a few i have sent the design and made a few and no one has had a problem

 

you can buy little valve stem caps at pep boys and walmart the show green if good red if low

 

AintQik, you should share these stories with me bro I am more then willing to do what I can being that I sold you the wheels. I am going to send you a PM

 

Well, I don't really think its your problem, you are just a vendor. I Forged needs to do some research and get on the ball. Stefan has been pretty cool the whole time. But how can he get the wheels to work, he just sells the things?

What I have right now are wheel bands. However, with the amount of power my car makes I break the TPMS off the bands. So, I have to hoseclamp the sensor to the giant bands that run around the wheel. Also, under power I actually spin the giant bands around the wheel. So, I cut rubber hose and wrap it around all three bands to keep it from slipping. Then, I have to run a stubby valve stem which barely clears the wheel and the brake.

Its so jimmy rigged it makes me sick. How friggin hard would it be to weld a sensor clamp on there? Jesus, I paid $4400 for these things and I have to use $10 worth of hose clamps to make them work. I Forged has not returned my emails. Well, I take that back, a guy did email me from SEMA telling me it should work with their sensor adaptors. They don't work for shat. Didn't want to hear about how they should work and a handful of ways to make it happen. I love my wheels. However, they are pieces of junk with regard to making them work on a vette and follow up tech support.

I get 10 people asking me what wheels are those everytime I'm out. That's about 1 a week in the summer. Do the math, I'm going to start telling all 10 of those people to go get some CCWs.