A6 shift points are ?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I just created a separate album and posted three pretty big screenshots with almost all of the Normal, Pattern A and Pattern B shift information.
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s...n/HP%20Tuners/
The reason for the pink coloring is that I only had a 2.73-geared tune as my starting point so when I switched everything over to 2.56, the pink represents the values that were changed.
Hopefully this will give you everything you wanted to know but if it doesn't, just let me know and I'll do my best to help you out.
Christopher
http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s...n/HP%20Tuners/
The reason for the pink coloring is that I only had a 2.73-geared tune as my starting point so when I switched everything over to 2.56, the pink represents the values that were changed.
Hopefully this will give you everything you wanted to know but if it doesn't, just let me know and I'll do my best to help you out.
Christopher
Thanks Christopher, It's gonna take me a few days to absorb enough of this to even start the understanding process. One thing has become clear to me is that I have a lot to learn and I better get started. Maybe I'll put HP Tuners on my year-end bonus list.
Thanks again.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,097
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From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Christopher
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 878
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From: Little Egypt, USA
Unless you specifically change it, Pattern A is normal and Pattern B is Sport.
In regards to the numbers not making sense, the one thing I forgot to mention earlier (and it probably would have caused less confusion if I had) was that my car has 3.42 gears and I've modified my shift points based on the fact that I race the car.
Sorry for the confusion as I was only trying to show what the different screens looked like, not what the numbers should be for a given car.
Hope that clears things up (even just a little).
Christopher
In regards to the numbers not making sense, the one thing I forgot to mention earlier (and it probably would have caused less confusion if I had) was that my car has 3.42 gears and I've modified my shift points based on the fact that I race the car.
Sorry for the confusion as I was only trying to show what the different screens looked like, not what the numbers should be for a given car.
Hope that clears things up (even just a little).
Christopher
On the HP shift speed tables:
1. If I want to change sport mode speeds I use the pattern B tab/tables to make the changes. Got that.
2. Lets say I want to change drive mode speeds. Do I Use the Normal tab/tables to make the changes or do I use the pattern A tab/tables to make the changes? Or do I have to change both and make them the same?
3, I'm still confused as to why the drive mode would need to have two tab/table choices (normal and A ). Wouldn't one be enough?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,097
Likes: 5
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Ok Chris, let me see if I have this straight.
On the HP shift speed tables:
1. If I want to change sport mode speeds I use the pattern B tab/tables to make the changes. Got that.
2. Lets say I want to change drive mode speeds. Do I Use the Normal tab/tables to make the changes or do I use the pattern A tab/tables to make the changes? Or do I have to change both and make them the same?
3, I'm still confused as to why the drive mode would need to have two tab/table choices (normal and A ). Wouldn't one be enough?
On the HP shift speed tables:
1. If I want to change sport mode speeds I use the pattern B tab/tables to make the changes. Got that.
2. Lets say I want to change drive mode speeds. Do I Use the Normal tab/tables to make the changes or do I use the pattern A tab/tables to make the changes? Or do I have to change both and make them the same?
3, I'm still confused as to why the drive mode would need to have two tab/table choices (normal and A ). Wouldn't one be enough?
For questions 2 & 3, for whatever reason the guys at HP Tuners don't seem to have a clear understanding of why it's like this (or better still, how and when either any of the other modes like Hot or Hot Engine ever get used) so in the interest of simplicity I just change it in both places so that I'm never guessing.
Oh and I'm not sure if this was ever mentioned before, but don't worry about changing the shift RPM values as the car only shifts based on MPH.
Christopher
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,922
Likes: 4
From: Cheektowaga NY
St. Jude Donor '08
1. GY RFs(use a drag radial)
2. Your stock converter(get a higher stall)
I have cut many 1.64-1.65 60fts with these 2.56 gears and a 3200 stall.
Now i just went up to a 3600 stall and will be looking for 1.5 60fts with the STOCK 2.56 gears.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
There are two reasons why your limited to 1.90 60fts and it has nothing to do with the 2.56 gears.
1. GY RFs(use a drag radial)
2. Your stock converter(get a higher stall)
I have cut many 1.64-1.65 60fts with these 2.56 gears and a 3200 stall. Now i just went up to a 3600 stall and will be looking for 1.5 60fts with the STOCK 2.56 gears.
1. GY RFs(use a drag radial)
2. Your stock converter(get a higher stall)
I have cut many 1.64-1.65 60fts with these 2.56 gears and a 3200 stall.
Now i just went up to a 3600 stall and will be looking for 1.5 60fts with the STOCK 2.56 gears.Did you gain .25 from just the converter alone? Were shift point changes needed? And probably the big question is what happened to gas milage at highway speeds? Slippage at 1600rpm and 70mph? I never drove my drag-only cars on the street, so I have no experience with converters there.
I drive about 30K a year with 20K highway. I can't let that suffer much to get better ETs a couple of times a month.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,922
Likes: 4
From: Cheektowaga NY
St. Jude Donor '08
I borrowed some DRs one day for a few passes and saw absolutely no difference. Maybe I don't have enough power yet to require them. You're running a full second quicker than me, as my only mods are CAI and a tune at this time.
Did you gain .25 from just the converter alone? Were shift point changes needed? And probably the big question is what happened to gas milage at highway speeds? Slippage at 1600rpm and 70mph? I never drove my drag-only cars on the street, so I have no experience with converters there.
I drive about 30K a year with 20K highway. I can't let that suffer much to get better ETs a couple of times a month.
Did you gain .25 from just the converter alone? Were shift point changes needed? And probably the big question is what happened to gas milage at highway speeds? Slippage at 1600rpm and 70mph? I never drove my drag-only cars on the street, so I have no experience with converters there.
I drive about 30K a year with 20K highway. I can't let that suffer much to get better ETs a couple of times a month.
. I drive on the street,trips(PA,NJ and back to NY with NO problems),and to the track. Mileage is just fine with the 3200 converter(seen anywhere between 26-28mpg hwy). Don`t know as of yet how the 3600 will affect mileage, but the 3200 was great!As far as you not seeing any gains from your DRs, that could be due to incorrect air pressures,launch techniques, and the biggest factor is your stock stall, not your 2.56 gears.
For drag racing ONLY
your stall should be 400rpms less than your peak torque. I am know where near 5000rpms on my launch
But a higher stall gets you closer to your peak torque, kinda like the manual guys launching there cars at 4000-5000 rpms. If you decide that you want a stall, get a 2800 vigilanti or yank. That 2800 would be great for what you do and i bet you wouldn`t even notice the difference between the 2800 and stock 1800. When you go to the track, the 2800 will help you get better 60fts than that stock 1800 ever could.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,206
Likes: 6
From: Makena, Maui & NM
LS2 with Cai, tune and headers. My headers is equal or likely less to your extra 36 hp with the LS3 & NPP. You got plenty of power to take advantage of DR's. My best was a 1.96 on runcraps (though most were 1.99's) and my best was 1.81 on DR's (1.87 at the same DA & track as my 1.96). My DR's are BFG 275/40/17 on C5 Z06 17" wheels. So as Sherlock would say, something is amiss.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I did have to chuckle about your "trips" because PA, NJ, and NY share a three way corner. My trips are like AZ to ME, then to FL and back home.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You should be able to pickup at least .08 or lots more with DR's. Tony B4 is correct that it must be pressures, launch or something. I got a
LS2 with Cai, tune and headers. My headers is equal or likely less to your extra 36 hp with the LS3 & NPP. You got plenty of power to take advantage of DR's. My best was a 1.96 on runcraps (though most were 1.99's) and my best was 1.81 on DR's (1.87 at the same DA & track as my 1.96). My DR's are BFG 275/40/17 on C5 Z06 17" wheels. So as Sherlock would say, something is amiss.
LS2 with Cai, tune and headers. My headers is equal or likely less to your extra 36 hp with the LS3 & NPP. You got plenty of power to take advantage of DR's. My best was a 1.96 on runcraps (though most were 1.99's) and my best was 1.81 on DR's (1.87 at the same DA & track as my 1.96). My DR's are BFG 275/40/17 on C5 Z06 17" wheels. So as Sherlock would say, something is amiss.
DRs were MT same size on same wheels as yours. Ya got me.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,206
Likes: 6
From: Makena, Maui & NM
How and how long were you burning those MT's? What was the pressures you were using for your runflats and MT's? You should see smoke on your DR burnouts for at least 3 seconds. Pressures should be about 24-26 hot for the runflats and around 21-24 hot for the DR's.
Still, 12.07 @119 is a hot time for AZ where the DA is an exact opposite
to ATCO in December ie: -2500 NJ = +2500 AZ
Still, 12.07 @119 is a hot time for AZ where the DA is an exact opposite
to ATCO in December ie: -2500 NJ = +2500 AZ
Last edited by siffert; Dec 21, 2008 at 10:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,108
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
How and how long were you burning those MT's? What was the pressures you were using for your runflats and MT's? You should see smoke on your DR burnouts for at least 3 seconds. Pressures should be about 24-26 hot for the runflats and around 21-24 hot for the DR's.
Still, 12.07 @119 is a hot time for AZ where the DA is an exact opposite
to ATCO in December ie: -2500 NJ = +2500 AZ
Still, 12.07 @119 is a hot time for AZ where the DA is an exact opposite
to ATCO in December ie: -2500 NJ = +2500 AZ
Actually the 12.07 was, in fact, at ATCO in April with around a 500' DA. The best in Phoenix was a 12.14 two weeks earlier with a 1464 DA.
I'm looking forward to January with cool days and the sun warming the track.
And thinking real hard about that converter now.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,206
Likes: 6
From: Makena, Maui & NM
I was pretty much dead hooking with both the RFs and DRs so had no need to play with pressures even though they were close to what you reccommended.
Actually the 12.07 was, in fact, at ATCO in April with around a 500' DA. The best in Phoenix was a 12.14 two weeks earlier with a 1464 DA.
I'm looking forward to January with cool days and the sun warming the track. And thinking real hard about that converter now.
Actually the 12.07 was, in fact, at ATCO in April with around a 500' DA. The best in Phoenix was a 12.14 two weeks earlier with a 1464 DA.
I'm looking forward to January with cool days and the sun warming the track.
And thinking real hard about that converter now. 
I would probably try those headers first, though you would most likely pick up more time with the stall. I didnt want to mess with my street runflat traction, so I passed on the stall.
Last edited by siffert; Dec 21, 2008 at 03:34 PM.
