Wheel Click Issue



Interesting. If you look at the date of this thread you can tell I have kind of quit caring about it. I can get it to stop for short periods, but it just comes back. There are multiple threads on cadillacforums.com about the new CTS-V having this very same issue. I will try removing the center caps and see what happens. If the caps are popping then the wheel will also have to be flexing. That doesn't seem right.
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I just bought my 05 Z51 a week ago...and this annoying noise has been driving me crazy. Only on the right side, like several of you have had...only when in sharp turns.....Which solution seemed to help the most???
Trust me enough heads turn when this car rolls into view...FULL attention ....and the click click click kinda ruins the effect!
I am looking forwar to hearing which "fix" helped the most!!!
Last edited by Dave O; Aug 1, 2009 at 09:44 AM.
I just bought my 05 Z51 a week ago...and this annoying noise has been driving me crazy. Only on the right side, like several of you have had...only when in sharp turns.....Which solution seemed to help the most???
Trust me enough heads turn when this car rolls into view...FULL attention ....and the click click click kinda ruins the effect!
I am looking forwar to hearing which "fix" helped the most!!!
1. Wheel bearings. Lift the car up off the wheels, grab the wheels/tires and see if you can nudge them up/down. If so, it may be a wheel bearing.
2. End links. On the Z I believe you may have the one with the grease fittings. Even so, you may be able to grab the link or anti-sway bar and move it and see if the link makes a noise. Maybe check the nuts and see if they have come loose. Sometimes these things don't get greased and they go bad due to lack of maintenance.
3. If you have aftermarket wheels, check to see with the wheel off if the hold down washer is on one of the studs. The stock wheels have a detent on the back to account for this thin piece of metal that holds the rotor on in place while the car is being assembled. Simply remove the hold down washer from the stud(s).
4. Brake pads. Sometimes the brake pads can rattle. Test this out while driving slowly with the windows down and the top on by another car and listen as you go by expansion joints at low speed. Then do the same thing with the brakes slightly depressed and see if that makes a difference.
5. Rear axle nuts. They could be loose. Take the center cap off the rear tires and check the torque with a torque wrench. There was a recall on these. They are probably about 8 bucks each if you want to do it yourself. Some people reported they were loose. Your wheel won't fall off if these come loose, but the half shaft will not put the right amount of pressure on some rear bearings and it (I think) results in a clicking sound. Don't over tighten. The new torque spec I think is 160ft/lbs, but also use the permanent locktite if you need this.
That is all I can remember.
If I were to guess on only going right, I would say a suspension piece like an end link would be the thing I would check first. Maybe a tie-rod end also. If you take it to an alignment shop they may be able to figure it out if it's one of those.
Last edited by SnapperDragon; Aug 2, 2009 at 08:18 AM.
1. Wheel bearings. Lift the car up off the wheels, grab the wheels/tires and see if you can nudge them up/down. If so, it may be a wheel bearing.
2. End links. On the Z I believe you may have the one with the grease fittings. Even so, you may be able to grab the link or anti-sway bar and move it and see if the link makes a noise. Maybe check the nuts and see if they have come loose. Sometimes these things don't get greased and they go bad due to lack of maintenance.
3. If you have aftermarket wheels, check to see with the wheel off if the hold down washer is on one of the studs. The stock wheels have a detent on the back to account for this thin piece of metal that holds the rotor on in place while the car is being assembled. Simply remove the hold down washer from the stud(s).
4. Brake pads. Sometimes the brake pads can rattle. Test this out while driving slowly with the windows down and the top on by another car and listen as you go by expansion joints at low speed. Then do the same thing with the brakes slightly depressed and see if that makes a difference.
5. Rear axle nuts. They could be loose. Take the center cap off the rear tires and check the torque with a torque wrench. There was a recall on these. They are probably about 8 bucks each if you want to do it yourself. Some people reported they were loose. Your wheel won't fall off if these come loose, but the half shaft will not put the right amount of pressure on some rear bearings and it (I think) results in a clicking sound. Don't over tighten. The new torque spec I think is 160ft/lbs, but also use the permanent locktite if you need this.
That is all I can remember.
If I were to guess on only going right, I would say a suspension piece like an end link would be the thing I would check first. Maybe a tie-rod end also. If you take it to an alignment shop they may be able to figure it out if it's one of those.
However, I don’t believe the noises I was hearing or that of the OP are caused by these items. It is a much different noise than some to the items you mention above. Cases in point:1. As the original OP stated and in my case as well, it only happens on hard turns. That means the steering wheel turned 100% in one direction.
2. The click happened in the same spot as the car was moving. E.g., I had the wife drive the car in a circle while I walked along side with my ear to the wheel. You can imagine how slow she was driving to allow me to walk beside the wheel. The click always happened at the same spot. If she increased her speed, the speed of the click would increase. This also rules out loose axel nuts, as the noise was coming from the right front wheel, not the rear. My wheels were stock at the time, so it rules this out as well. I did have non stock center caps though. Lastly, the tinnerman clips were removed so it wasn't this either.
3. It wasn't end links. That noise happens over bumps. I've had bad end links, and this is a totally different noise. This click noise is higher in pitch and only happens on hard left or right turns, at very slow speeds.
4. Doubt it is a suspension problem. The noise is not "bump" related.
5. The noise does not happen with the wheels in the air and steering wheel turned. Only on the ground.
6. After pulling my wheel off to look for anything that might be loose, the noise went away - temporarily. However, after about 8 hard left turns the noise came back.
7. If I loosened up on the lugnuts, the noise goes away, and I could not get the noise to come back. I ended up lowering the torque on the right lugnuts to 90 lbs and never heard the noise again.
The best way I could describe the noise is that it was very similar to the same noise I would hear while the car cooled down after a long drive. Around the wheels I would hear a faint click, tick etc. as the wheels cooled down. This is the same noise I would hear while turning. With my new spyder wheels, I no longer hear this noise while the wheels cool off after a drive. I also no longer hear the click even with the lugnuts torqued to specs. Personally, I think it was the center caps. If not that, knkali's suggestion above seems like it might have merit.
I was doing a lot of auto-x for the first couple of years with the car and think that all the tire change cycles may have contributed to the lug nut issue.
Once I find the cause I will be sure to post it so others can learn from my experience.














