Which Stroker???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
If you decide to go with the 440 incher, I would consider a darton sleeved LS2 block instead of the LS7. The darton sleeves are longer, which help with the piston rock at BDC. We've used them, and I highly recommend them as an alternative to the LS7. The cost is not much more than the LS7 block. When you consider the finish machine work that has to be done to the LS7, and the clearancing for the stroker, and the fact that all that is done to the sleeved LS2, the price difference becomes even less.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 45
From: Atlanta, GA.
^^^ I'd think this makes good sense with all the speculation/debating surrounding the LS7 blocks' strength. Why not just use the LS3 block for this? GM felt it strong enough to use for the ZR1 motor. Will a 4.125 crank work in an LS3 w/o much clearancing?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
PS, it's not the clearancing that's an issue. It's how far the piston is pulled down in the bore/sleeve. That extra .050-.060 is alot when you consider the fact that at 4 inches it's pulling it down almost .200 farther (.189), the piston skirt is shorter, etc. Makes for a bad situation.
The longer sleeve helps that a bunch.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; Jan 11, 2009 at 04:16 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 45
From: Atlanta, GA.
Gotta say I'm with ya there. I didn't do a 4.125" crank in my LS6 stroker either for the same reason. 
I did have to clearance the windage tray a tiny bit and one other thing I can't remember even with the 4" Callies crank.
I did have to clearance the windage tray a tiny bit and one other thing I can't remember even with the 4" Callies crank.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,356
Likes: 1
From: Chesapeake Va
Oh yeah, even the 4 inch crank will require clearancing of the block and windage tray. Oil pan too on the f bodies.
