2007 Black MN6 Z51 convertible.
LG Motorsports World Challenge wheels (18x10,19x11)
Toyo R888 Tires (265x35x18, 305x30x19)
We lowered the car using the stock bolts... got about 1/2 inch front and back.

We plan to drive on the road to events... and maybe do some touring.
We (my wife and I) both Autocross, and I do some track days too.
We drive to/from events on these tires (we have had quite enough of trailering, jacking, changing wheels, etc.).
We have been avid autocrossers since 1980.
We have done it all, and been regional champions several years.
Now we just go out to have fun.

We have had a 1978, 1965 (awesome slalom car), 1988, 1992, 2000 (awesome slalom car),
and we successfully autocrossed them all very well.

Now we have this 2007, and were wondering about the settings for a C6.

I just had a wheel alignment done:
Front 1.6 degrees negative camber
1.2 degrees negative toe (out)
7.9 degrees caster
Rear 1.2 degrees negative camber
1.0 degrees positive toe (in)

I thought these settings would be about appropriate for our intended use.

What do you more experienced people think ?

Thanks for your input.

 

Hi Gary

The camber and caster sound real good for an aggressive alignment, although it might be a little much for the street.

I believe the factory alignment specs for the C6 call for about -0.5 degrees of camber, and the Z06 is about -1.0 to -1.2 degrees for the street.

Hoosier recommends camber of -3.0 degrees (at least -2.5) degrees for their A6/R6. For R6's on a road course I run about -2.5 front and -1.5 rear on my C6Z. So, I think your camber is good for an aggressive alignment on a C6.

The question I have is about your toe. I measure and set my toe alignment using inches, and for the street I set zero toe front and rear. Like your setup, for the track I run toe-out up front and toe-in for the rear.

However, I run about 1/16 to 1/8 inch toe-out up front and 1/8 inch toe-in for the back - and that's total toe, i.e. up front if each wheel is about 1/16 inch toe-out from straight ahead, that would be a total of 1/8 inch.

I've always considered 1/32 inch to be approximately 0.1 degree. I just did some math and it looks like it may actually be about .135 degrees on a Corvette size wheel, but feel free to do your own calculations. What I come up with on a Corvette size wheel is that 1/8 inch would be about 0.5 degree of toe. I don't know how your toe measurement in degrees is computed, i.e. is it a "total" or is the number you have above for each individual wheel? A front toe-out of 1.2 degrees would be in the range of 5/16 of an inch, which would be excessive if it's a "total" measurement, and way excessive if that's for each front wheel. Same for the rear - it sounds quite excessive.

I'm wondering if perhaps you didn't mean 0.12 for the front and 0.1 for the rear. I think those numbers would be very acceptable for a nice track setup.

Butt....my calculations from inches to degrees may be messed up.

BTW, take a look at forum member David Farmers great website:

http://davidfarmerstuff.com

He's got a couple links on the main page to an "Alignment Guide", "Why Toe Out", and "Suspension Setup" that have good info.

Bob

 

I have a very similar setup and like the "arrive and drive" autocross convenience. I am running the 275/35/18 and 305/30/19 Toyo R888s for events and another set of wheels and tires for daily driving.

Using the Hardbar camber & stud kit, I change my front camber settings when I change wheels. So at least on the front I don't have to compromise my alignments. On the street I run -0.5 deg camber and for events I can run -2.0 deg by removing washers from the studs. The geometry of the front-end of the Corvette goes from 1/8" toed out at -2.0 deg camber to 3/16" toed in with -0.5 deg camber -- close enough that I do not bother adjusting the tie rod ends.

As you know, the Toyos are a compromise tire for autocross. By getting more camber, the Toyos perform even better (as measured by my MaxQ datalogger) and you have one less compromise without a lot of hassle.

 

agreed on the toe....-0.12 and 0.1 would make sense...-1.0 and 1.2 would be far too much at both ends...I think you'd end up with a pushing dump truck (although it initial turn-in would be amazing).

I went with more camber in the front (-2.2) and zero toe (easier on the street tires and I don't feel like the car really needs help on turn-in). I have the same rear camber (that's actually the max I could get on the driver's side), with 0.1deg toe in (total).

My alignment slipped during the first autox, so I'd encourage you to mark your adjusters with a sharpie or touch-up so you'll be able to quickly identify (and possibly fix) any problems.

 

Hey guys, My boo-boo.....

Yes, for the toe, I should have said
.12 deg front (out)
.10 deg rear (in)

Just not paying attention again.

So from what you are saying, this should be a good compromise
for autocross and street.

Thanks a heap

 

I should have prefaced my first post with "I'm not an expert, butt...."

So, having said that, I say "yes" - your alignment looks good.

There are a lot of old posts with recommendations for alignment, and here's an old one I still have in my "favorites" menu on my computer (and this is from an expert):

http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf


Bob

 

Thanks Bob,
I have bookmarked that link.

Gary