Priming ls engine????



ANYONE???






You can just as easily get plumbing fittings that fit the oil gallery plug and use a pump as all you need to do is prime the pump and insure there oil where there should be oil
Then you could also check GM for the pump
Ah you just got a new short block......correction once the heads are on and the valve train assembled...pump like hell to insure there is oil up top as I always like to insure that everything has oil. (Just changing a cam all you need is a couple of quarts to prime the pump).
Last edited by Tommy D; Feb 12, 2009 at 10:54 PM.
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You can just as easily get plumbing fittings that fit the oil gallery plug and use a pump as all you need to do is prime the pump and insure there oil where there should be oil
Then you could also check GM for the pump
Ah you just got a new short block......correction once the heads are on and the valve train assembled...pump like hell to insure there is oil up top as I always like to insure that everything has oil. (Just changing a cam all you need is a couple of quarts to prime the pump).

It's a work of art!!!
I used my Motive brake bleeder. I drilled and tapped a 1/4 NPT hole in the bottom of the bleeder tank and screwed in a 2" piece of 1/4" brass hard line and put a shutoff valve on that. Then 3/8" clear flex tubing was ran to the M16 adapter in the engine block. I took the line off the Motive bleeder that usually runs to the master cylinder and connected an air line there.
Here it is with 2 quarts of Royal Purple ready to go

Here is the line going to the engine block, looking through the left wheel opening

I didn't want to fool with an air pressure regulator so I just bled my air compressor tank down to about 60 psi. I turned the ignition on and put oil pressure on the display and had my son watch it while I opened the valve. I wanted to get a pic of the engine off, with oil pressure, but there was no time. It took 8 - 10 seconds to empty the bleeder tank and I shut it off before it got to pumping air in the engine.
It took a few seconds, after I opened the valve, for the oil pressure to show on the dash but my son saw up to 48 psi. Then I removed my M16 adapter and replaced the factory plug and fired the engine up. I got no valvetrain clatter at all, compared to the usual 10-15 seconds of clatter that you usually get after a cam swap.
http://www.motorprelube.com/



with your kit it will be easy, since it's a new build and on the stand.
I'll put a mchanical pressure gauge in the back of the block and whatch the pressure
and I'll have the Valve Covers off, so I'll see the pushrods and rockers get oil.






My wife is still mad, but after 38 yrs she expects it.
Again THANKS










