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P0340 code....engine wont crank

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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Default P0340 code....engine wont crank

Getting an error when using the search feature.

Headed back home and less than a mile from the house I am @70% throttle, 3rd gear, around 75mph and POP! I could hear the "pop" clearly from under the hood so I coast up the hill into a turning lane and the car dies totally.

Pop the hood and check for a hole in block, leaking fluids, etc. Nothing to be seen out of whack or loose. Hop in the car again and it will turn over but wont start. Get her back in the garage after an exhausting push through the neighborhood.

OBDII reader shows a P0340 code.
Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

Attempt to start car while in garage and same thing. Turns over but wont crank.


Thoughts and/or experiences out there?


Finding it very odd or unlikely why the cam sensor would take a dump so suddenly.


Car information:
H/C LS2
@27k miles


Thanks.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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check that the t-chain didnt break
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 07:10 PM
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T Chain!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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I agree - check the chain - but you should hear that as the engine spins over. The code says Camshaft Position Sensor. If that is out/broken - start won't happen.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 01:34 AM
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I have the car all apart but not sure how to remove the UD pulley. It seems to be a solid center piece unlike the pics of others I have seen where I could us a puller tool.

Any thoughts on this?

I didnt hear the slightest difference in noise when I attempted to start the car. Yeah, I am just alittle worried.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 01:38 AM
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Just did a google search and looks like I may have a SLP UD pulley. This is simply comparing pictures. Based on their site looks like the puller threads are close to the rim of the inside of the pulley.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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Ugg. This is the dreaded timing chain break, it seems to always happen exactly this way. I've seen it happen to 3 buddies cars. 1 ls1, 1 ls6 and 1 ls2.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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this really sucks.

So whats the final call on a suitable upgrade for durability?
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 12:11 PM
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I had this same thing happen to me day after thanksgiving. I'm still putting the engine back together. 1.8t had his about two weeks after mine. Wow, three timing chains in 3 months on the forum...
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Got (2) chains in mind currently.

- JP Performance

- Cloyes


why the $400 price difference?
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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The strongest one out there is the Katech C5R chain, that is strongest out there.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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I went for the Katech C5-R IWIS chain, 1.8t went with the Cloyes. Time will tell if there is another failure. Even if one of ours breaks, you'll never know for sure if it's the chain or some other issue in the valve train.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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Valve spring coilbind is a major contributor ,along with worn out springs causing valve float!!
with the high lift and wild ramp speed cams running in these motors it is advisable to replace them,
I have no idea how often, but I'm sure there is someone out there that can chime in.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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make sure you change everything...2 gears,chain,guide/s ,spring guide
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by patton
make sure you change everything...2 gears,chain,guide/s ,spring guide

I hear guys spend big bucks on pistons, valves, heads, then they buy a 49.95 timing chain kit!!!! or low buck oil pump.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by pmj341
The strongest one out there is the Katech C5R chain, that is strongest out there.
Actually, the Cloyes 9-194 chain is the strongest chain available. Katech is the next strongest. The chain I bought cost $360 just for the chain.

Leavinu, this sucks man and I hope it isn't the timing chain. You can find out if it is really easily. Take off your intake manifold and remove the valley cover. You will be able to see the upper portion of the cam gear. If there is no chain on it, your F'ed.

As for your balancer. Go rent a harmonic puller from Advanced. It will come with some long bolts that you can use to thread into the the outer rim of the pulley which will allow you to pull it off. My ASP underdrive pulley was just like you described.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LEAVINU
Hop in the car again and it will turn over but wont start. Get her back in the garage after an exhausting push through the neighborhood.
After that pop, you should have heard a loud rattling noise as the pistons hit valves. Did you hear that? Whatever you do, do not crank the engine over anymore until you figure out if it is the TC or not. I have spent the last 2 months getting my car back on the road after a TC failure and it is such a crap shoot because no one will give you an exact answer as to the cause or the solution.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by gath47
Even if one of ours breaks, you'll never know for sure if it's the chain or some other issue in the valve train.
BTW, I just wanted to give you an update. My comp 921 springs were pressure tested and all came back right within spec. Looks like I had purely a TC failure. Everything about my install and components was flawless/in perfect working order.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 1.8t
BTW, I just wanted to give you an update. My comp 921 springs were pressure tested and all came back right within spec. Looks like I had purely a TC failure. Everything about my install and components was flawless/in perfect working order.
I'm glad to hear that!!!! at least now you have a good idea what caused it.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 07:39 AM
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Just curious as to everyone's mods that are having the t-chain break. Do you think it is associated with the mods, or do they just break because they break?
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