Instead of the drill and rivet method for the install of the base to the radiator shroud I thought Goop or JB Weld might be a good alternative. I plan to mark and cut the air hole per the template lay out Goop or JB Weld to the perimeter of the base and hopefully save the work and time of the radiator shroud removal. Any thoughts, pro or con, would be very much appreciated.

 

I know that silicone caulk does not stick to the plastic shroud. Polypropolyne is pretty slick stuff. I am using the heavy duty 3M double sided tape and that is working ok but not great.

I wanted to try automotive window caulk. They sell it at auto parts supply shops. Must clean it with alcohol to remove dirt and wax.

 

Spinmonster is using Goop on Fast intakes when he modifies the unit to fit the ls2 engine. The mod uses plastic as a cover glued to the Fast. Perhaps he will see this post and respond.

 

Con:The mod on the intake does not seem to have the stresses on it that the screwed down air cleaner would have. Therefore I would be afraid of a glue joint eventually failing and a possible chunk of bonding material ending up in a cylinder. If you do it make sure you roughen up the mating surfaces and follow directions to the letter.

Pro: easier and possibly a cleaner look.

 

Recently I broke one of the tabs on the engine covers and used JB weld to reattach it to the top. It produced a good bond. Sure would be good to know if the material is the same. It all looks like plastic to me.

Thanks to all for their responses.

 

Ah, you missed the original thread on the FAST because I gave the history of the GOOP testing. Long before I had the idea for modding the back of the FAST, my first project was for a cold air intake assembly and was really pissed off at the pricing so I made an air cleaner assembly using only GOOP as the test mule. 2 years later Vararam gave me a free unit and I removed the air cleaner made with plastic held together with purple GOOP and it was still 100%. The real shocker was when I tried to break down the air cleaner and found everything was breaking except for the GOOP joints. Pulling as hard as I could with my legs holding the top of the unit steady, I couldnt break it apart without destroying the plastic.

I can pull pretty hard.

GOOP is a pliable glue when set so its use in a vibration setting was better than JB weld which is rock hard and doesnt flex once its cured.

The port tubes in my home bass units in my home theater are held in place with a different variation of GOOP....orange tube for wood/plastic. They are 4 cubic foot enclosures with 15" drivers being fed by a crwn 3200 watt amp. GOOP is the way to go and its not tripped up by fuel or oil.

The pliable (soft) nature makes it choice one if it was to be ingested by the motor. It would cause no damage. Its not as soft as silicone but wont harm a piston if it gets wedged in there. I think it will be way stronger than the guy needs for holding the base of the Callaway assembly to the shroud. He wont be able to get it out if he wants to though.

 

Sounds like the way to avoid a lot of tedium with the shroud. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the response.

 

Goop is an unbelievably strong glue. I have a story about one of my service crews and a drunken joke they played on a guy with goop (a guy that has the same build as Spin). Believe me the stuff is strong, and will be stronger than the plastic you are using it on.

 

If Spin cant pull it apart then it aint coming apart. Dude is an animal. There you go! Sounds like you have a great idea with some testing to prove its workability.

 

I'd put a couple of rivets in , just for good measure.