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I broke a stud recently, and read an article where the guy was removing the stud by hitting it with a hammer. He didn't, however remove the spindle. Is this adviseable? I would think the bearing might be damaged unless you removed the spindle.
Also, are the studs at DRM ok to use with stock lug nuts? They are heavier duty, but 1/2 to 1" longer than stock. Do I need different lug nuts(deeper)?
Any advise?
My car is 2006 ZO6.....the front wheel.
Last edited by Futfixr; Feb 26, 2009 at 02:10 PM.
Reason: Include year and make of car
Snapped a wheel stud on my Jeep some years ago. Sprayed it with some WD 40. Popped it through with a few blows of the hammer. Did it on the car. Job went pretty easy.
It took several hits. Blows arent even that hard to get the stud moving. Probably hit potholes that were worse.
Did have to spin hub to align it so I could slip in new stud from behind.
Use some oversize nuts as spacers to seat new stud with lug nut.
I am an engineer for a bearing manufacturer and would not recommend beating the stud out with a hammer. You need to press it out either using a large C-clamp and a socket (if there is room) or remove the hub bearing and press out the broken stud and press in the new one. Just my 2 cents.
I am an engineer for a bearing manufacturer and would not recommend beating the stud out with a hammer. You need to press it out either using a large C-clamp and a socket (if there is room) or remove the hub bearing and press out the broken stud and press in the new one. Just my 2 cents.
When the bearing is on the car. I will have a video in a couple hours!!!
That is the best way to remove and replace a wheel stud. All of the forces are applied to the hub flange and not the rolling elements in the bearing. Great post Randy!
That is the best way to remove and replace a wheel stud. All of the forces are applied to the hub flange and not the rolling elements in the bearing. Great post Randy!
Thanks!!! I was curious to see your views on our process.
The "right" way of doing it is to remove the wheel bearing, and doing it just like I have in the video. Sorry but that is the right way.
Hitting the stud out with it mounted on the car, causes flat spots on the ***** and inner races. Hence the reason why it's the "wrong" way.
Randy
Randy is 100% correct. Sometimes there is no shortcut, especially if you do not want to create more problems and cost yourself extra money and aggravation.
Hey Randy,
It was good talking to you today. I was driving back from the shop late tonight, and started thinking. We have some stock studs around, if you can't find any.
The "right" way of doing it is to remove the wheel bearing, and doing it just like I have in the video. Sorry but that is the right way.
Hitting the stud out with it mounted on the car, causes flat spots on the ***** and inner races. Hence the reason why it's the "wrong" way.
Randy
Randy
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about pressing them out....but, it doesn't look like there is any clearence to pass the stud out the back. How difficult is it to remove the hub from the car? Is this something that can be done by a reasonably good non professional? Or is this a job that I should have a shop do?
I know this is an old thread but I recently had to swap all my wheel studs. I hammered them in with the hub off the car as shown. However I did not know that I had to line up the splines. I just hammered it until it went all the way in. I figured it fould make a new grove as i found it dificult to match some of the splines to the groves already in the hub. Some were easier than others.
Could this have damaged my wheel hub or is it not a big deal???
I know this is an old thread but I recently had to swap all my wheel studs. I hammered them in with the hub off the car as shown. However I did not know that I had to line up the splines. I just hammered it until it went all the way in. I figured it fould make a new grove as i found it dificult to match some of the splines to the groves already in the hub. Some were easier than others.
Could this have damaged my wheel hub or is it not a big deal???
Any info is always apreciated.
If the stud is bottomed out and the lug nuts torque down to 100 foot pounds. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are changing tires all the time, give me a call for the anti-spin in the hub treatment. The treatment is too much for a street car.
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about pressing them out....but, it doesn't look like there is any clearence to pass the stud out the back. How difficult is it to remove the hub from the car? Is this something that can be done by a reasonably good non professional? Or is this a job that I should have a shop do?
Thanks,
Charley
Charley,
Sorry I didn't see this before. Hopefully you got it done ok. For the information. The lower control arm's ball joint must be removed to gain room to remove the bottom wheel bearing bolt (1 out 3 bolts) Becarefull of the leaf spring, because it has tension even at full droop. You can use a jack or a block of wood to prevent the lower control arm from killing you. The rears, you need to remove the large axle nut to get the wheel bearings.
One more thing... Since I hammered it in instead of using an air gun I may have had some uh "hits" slightly off target (if you know what I mean). How can I tell if a speed sensor got damaged in the process???
One more thing... Since I hammered it in instead of using an air gun I may have had some uh "hits" slightly off target (if you know what I mean). How can I tell if a speed sensor got damaged in the process???
If you had the hub supported by a vice or something, then you should be just fine. The speed senor is just a wheel with grooves machined, then a sensor that looks at the wheel. If you left a bunch of marks in the hub, I would throw it away. But a few can be cleaned up with a file. The sharp edges create a stress raiser and that is where the hub can fail.
If you didn't have the hub supported it is very easy to flat spot the ***** and the race that the ***** ride in. They will wear extremely fast.
I ordered my DRM hp studs a couple of days ago, can't wait for them to arrive! The dealership says they can install for $175/10 rear studs, might be expensive but no headaches/confusion/concerns/etc!
safest way is to use an air hammer with a blunt bit. The hammering wont hurt the bearing cuz its more of a vibrating hammer effect with little weight behind it. I think you need to take the rotor off. to install i have a tool wit ha bearing so it wont kill a few lug nuts. It can be done with a lug nut tho,,,,,,,,,