how to change oil?
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5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
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how to change oil?
I just bought a new 2008 C6. Would like to do my own oil changes. Where can I find the "how to" info?
The last time I bought a Corvette it was a new 1967 Stingray convertible. Paid about $3650! Should have kept it!
The last time I bought a Corvette it was a new 1967 Stingray convertible. Paid about $3650! Should have kept it!
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Melting Slicks
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From: A galaxy far, far away...
St. Jude Donor '12 thru '26
though you can do w/out the valve & a special jack is nice but not required, I jack at the FR puck then support w/ jackstands at the RR puck & the FR "optimum" jacking location 
Gene @ gmpartshouse.com has PF48's cheep or for a little more get the PF48R's
Pro
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From: Edmond Oklahoma
Thread Starter
5th Gear
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Thanks!!
Advanced
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From: WINTER HAVEN FLORIDA
Forget the jack and the ramps. Turn wheel all the way to the left. You can reach in behind the drivers side tire and access the plug and the filter. You only need to find a low profile drain pan. Piece of cake 
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From: Longview Texas
I would not even get the car off the ground if it is not necessary.
You should be able to lay beside the car and reach everything.
I would not add a drain valve. To me, it is just something else to leak.
Since most people only change oil once or twice a year, taking out a drain plug is not a time consuming thing.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Mar 6, 2009 at 11:14 AM.
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When you release the oil from the drain plug in the pan does the oil drain down from the oil sump tank on the z06? Then do you fill the tank with fresh oil? I heard filling the engine is a no no, engine will hydrolock. Is there a fill procedure for dry sump engines here somewhere, I did a search but came up empty.
Thanks Rich
Thanks Rich
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
When you release the oil from the drain plug in the pan does the oil drain down from the oil sump tank on the z06? Then do you fill the tank with fresh oil? I heard filling the engine is a no no, engine will hydrolock. Is there a fill procedure for dry sump engines here somewhere, I did a search but came up empty.
Thanks Rich
Thanks Rich
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From: California
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St. Jude's Donor '06
And turning the wheel and changing the oil without raising the car doesn't work if you've got fat arms
Pro
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From: Edmond Oklahoma
Burning Brakes
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From: WV
Yeah, I don't think I'm going to try the "no raise" method - I'm changing oil tomorrow for first time on this car and plan to put my ramps on the downward sloping portion of my driveway, drive on, and the car should be fairly level, but with the front raised enough to do the job. That's my plan anyway - we all know how plans turn out a lot of the time.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
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From: Dallas TX
make sure your driveway is not too much of a slope or it will not allow all the oil to drain out of the pan. The car needs to be either level or slightly higher in the front to get all the oil out. Just something to keep in mind.
Pro
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From: Edmond Oklahoma
OK - thanks for the info - I'll pay attention to the angle once I get it on the ramps.
Burning Brakes
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From: Dallas TX
Down south where we really do not need to put the car up for the winter 10w-30 or 5w is fine because the cars "usually" dont sit so long as to cause the bearing surfaces to go dry.
Up north where the cars are stored for 3-6 months you want as light weight oil as possible to get the oil to circulate as quickly as possible. After being setup for so long those bearings will be a little dry and a second or 2 could be all it needs to spin a bearing or even mar up the crank/rod to bearing surface.
You really will not see a HUGE difference in the viscosity of the oil between 10w and 5w. If it were me I would change the oil right before storing the car to 5w so when I start I back up in a few months it will be less likely it have issues and then if you are going to be driving it go ahead and change it if you want to 10w.
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