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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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Default LS2 recommendation

I currently have a 2005 Corvette, Z51 package +6 speed manual trans, Corsa Sport axle back and Airaid intake. I would like to get the car to be in the 430-450 wheel horsepower range. I am purchasing American Racing Long tubes 1 3/4” with catted x-pipe. What kind of cam would you recommend to bring the power to my expected level?. This car is my daily driver (April-Nov). I would like to be able to maintain my low/midrange power and drive ability since I get stuck in low speed/city driving.
This is what I was recommended from a local tuner
228/228 .588/.588 113+2
7.400" pushrods,
Valve springs .600" lift
25% Underdrive Pulley
Port LS2 INTAKE
Port Stock Throttle body

Now I read that with the 25% pulley, some guys had issues with premature timing chain failure. Not sure if it is worth it to change it out, if I do i read that the 10% one is good. My friend was saying that this cam is to calm for this car, do you think I should go more aggressive? My tuner said that this cam will give me like stock almost drive ability, and doesn't recommend going bigger cause the motor will get lazy down low
any comments?
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:57 PM
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I'm with ya... I want almost the exact same thing.. I have an A4.. but drag race it about 10 times a yr.. so I still want it to drive nice at low end (same as you) I've run a best ET of 12.08 @ 115 mph..

I want to keep it as a "NICE DD" and cant decide if I should go small cam, & intake like you want or go to a high stall converter.. you being a 6M are not faced with that decesion....
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 08:18 AM
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I've read here a several occasions that the 05's (I have one) have pretty weak rear ends. I wonder if your quest for power to accelerate could also acclerate (pun intended) a rear end failure?
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Nebraska
I've read here a several occasions that the 05's (I have one) have pretty weak rear ends. I wonder if your quest for power to accelerate could also acclerate (pun intended) a rear end failure?
if it does, i will upgrade it
I dont launch hard or drag race my car, doing the mods just for fun and as a hobby,
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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I have 468 at the rear wheels (05 z51 mn6) and have never had an issue with the rear, it isn't a blanket problem.

I don't see how an underdrive pulley would have any effect on the timing chain, all it does is free up hp by increasing mechanical advantage (turning accessories slower)

Comp Cams XER281HR - 232/234 .595/.598 112 lsa
absolutely NOT lazy down low, or anywhere else
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Nebraska
I've read here a several occasions that the 05's (I have one) have pretty weak rear ends. I wonder if your quest for power to accelerate could also acclerate (pun intended) a rear end failure?

That is EXACTLY why I was thinking of going to a cam, FAST intake, underdrive pulleys, and Headers... by doing those mods, I "THINK" the car will leave the same (first 30') then I'll start to get the advantage of the mods without going to a 3200 converter it should be easier on my rear end, but give me more performance from the 60' to the finish line.. I'm thinking my 60' (now 1.88) will remain almost the same.. but the car will pick up on the rest of the run..

Can someone correct me if my train of thought is wrong.. Bottom line I'm hoping to pick up some ET but NOT leave the line any harder...

With my 96 it came with a Dana 36.. I put in a 3200 converter and 3.73 gears.. my 60' time went way down to 1.65 but I blew 2 rear ends in 2 months...

I then went to a Dana 44 with 3.45 gears and a 2800 converter.. my 60' slowed down to 1.78 BUT it lasted 5 years until I sold the car... That's why I plan on leaving the stock converter (to save the rear) and the rest of the mods will help me down track...

Am I wromg...
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by warsurfer
I have 468 at the rear wheels (05 z51 mn6) and have never had an issue with the rear, it isn't a blanket problem.

I don't see how an underdrive pulley would have any effect on the timing chain, all it does is free up hp by increasing mechanical advantage (turning accessories slower)

Comp Cams XER281HR - 232/234 .595/.598 112 lsa
absolutely NOT lazy down low, or anywhere else
i guess they were blaming it on not balancing enough...

so you recommend that cam? how does it sound at idle? feel fine idle-2k rpm? What else do you have done to it to put down that power?
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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If your tuner recommended that set-up, its probably pretty good.

You asked for other reference points, so here you go. I also have a 2005 Z51 manual. My cam choice was a Crane 228/232, 600/600, 112, +5. The key is probably the +5 advance. Greater advance, up to a point, moves the power band to the left and cuts the peak a little bit. My car has plenty down low. My Dynojet (SAE) graph shows 458 RWHP @ 6,000 and 425 RWTQ at 4,800 with a very conservative tune. More imprtant, however, is the 345 RWTQ at 2,500 and 380 at 3,000. I have 1 7/8 headers, too. These headers hurt torque a little at low RPM's as does my FAST manifold. I also have TFS 225 heads. these may help some at lower RPM's. Driveability is good. You should be fine with warsurfer's cam, you tuner's recommendation or this one. In my view, you may want to get an adjustable timing chain to try a little more advance, unless you use a Crane with 5 degrees ground in.

Lots of folks successfully use the 25% under-drive pulley. Good luck and enjoy!
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 12:27 AM
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Jumping on board, good information to know.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jpee
That is EXACTLY why I was thinking of going to a cam, FAST intake, underdrive pulleys, and Headers... by doing those mods, I "THINK" the car will leave the same (first 30') then I'll start to get the advantage of the mods without going to a 3200 converter it should be easier on my rear end, but give me more performance from the 60' to the finish line.. I'm thinking my 60' (now 1.88) will remain almost the same.. but the car will pick up on the rest of the run..

Can someone correct me if my train of thought is wrong.. Bottom line I'm hoping to pick up some ET but NOT leave the line any harder...

With my 96 it came with a Dana 36.. I put in a 3200 converter and 3.73 gears.. my 60' time went way down to 1.65 but I blew 2 rear ends in 2 months...

I then went to a Dana 44 with 3.45 gears and a 2800 converter.. my 60' slowed down to 1.78 BUT it lasted 5 years until I sold the car... That's why I plan on leaving the stock converter (to save the rear) and the rest of the mods will help me down track...

Am I wromg...
yes your wrong, i have been hundreds of 1.5 60fts, and about 40 1.4 60 fts and as low as 1.411 and haven't broken the rear yet
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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I have an 05 as well. Mine dyno's at 455rwhp with 3.90 gears. My cam is 228/232 .598 .608 113lsa. I also upgrade to L92 heads, underdrive pulley, ported tb and intake. I think I was 425rwhp before the head upgrade. Car idles great with a lope. Very street driveable.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by warsurfer
I have 468 at the rear wheels (05 z51 mn6) and have never had an issue with the rear, it isn't a blanket problem.

I don't see how an underdrive pulley would have any effect on the timing chain, all it does is free up hp by increasing mechanical advantage (turning accessories slower)

Comp Cams XER281HR - 232/234 .595/.598 112 lsa
absolutely NOT lazy down low, or anywhere else
Here is my theory on the timing chain failures problem. I believe it will be traced to destructive harmonics caused by changing one of a number of components attached to the crankshaft including the harmonic balancer and pulley. The purpose of the stock balancer is to dampen the specific harmonics created by the power pulses from a stock engine. When components are changed, these harmonics are changed in amplitude or shifted to another frequency band. A timing chain normally has some slack and whips back and forth at specific rpm and the stock balancer is suppose help control this. When you change something, like an underdrive pulley that has less mass, the harmonics have been changed. If it changes enough, something eventually breaks...perhaps a link or pin.

Last edited by Mez; Apr 18, 2009 at 10:53 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #13  
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Alright I have the rear wheel hp your looking for in my 05 A4. Heres what I have

dyna tech headers
corsa sport exhuast
vararam intake
comp 228/230 .595 lift cam 113 lsa
Trick flow 225 heads
yella terra roller rocker
trick flow push rods
25% ud pulley
ported intake
Stock timing chain (never had a break)
3200 yank stall
3.42 rpm gears

The car makes between 440-450 on a dyno jet dyno and has very good street driveability with a good tune. There is a little lope at idle around 700 rpm and the torque converter is set up so that you dont have to kill it to get it moving. You can go with a smaller converter around 2800 and get even better drivability. As far as the timing chain goes I havent heard of too many ls2 problems this seems to be an ls3 issue. I stayed with my stock one and havent had a problem but for piece of mind get an upgraded one and you should be good.

If you have any more questions feel free to pm me and Ill try my best to help you.
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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I think I am pretty much sold on the cam that warsurfer recommended
Comp Cams XER281HR - 232/234 .595/.598 112 lsa
which lsa would you recommend? 112?113?114?
warsurfer-any sound clips of your car @ idle?
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by GregC6
I think I am pretty much sold on the cam that warsurfer recommended
Comp Cams XER281HR - 232/234 .595/.598 112 lsa
which lsa would you recommend? 112?113?114?
warsurfer-any sound clips of your car @ idle?
I think that this would be a good cam and, for your application, I'd recommend the 112. I'd still urge you to get the adjustable timing chain to be able to optimize your advance.
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