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FOB Problems, HELP PLEASE!!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Carpentersville Illinois
FOB Problems, HELP PLEASE!!!
It's official, I hate my corvette. Broken rear end, crank pulley coming loose at speed, tow it here, tow it there, battery dead, FOB not working.... I have had it, now my most recent problem.
I bought and installed a Braille lightweight battery that is rated for Daily use. (Maybe I should have gone with OEM type battery). It drained and ruined the 1st Braille after sitting for 4 or 5 days. 2nd Braille installed and was doing great. I took it to work and made a couple stops. I literally went into one of my doc's offices for 5 minutes,came out and it doesn't recognize my FOB. Alarm works, light in engine works, but no response from computer to recognize FOB. I put FOB in glove compartment spot with no luck. What am I to do?
I will disconnect battery and try to reset computer, but here's my other frickin dilema. I FAILED EMISSIONS! I have a 7 day sticker to log enough miles to pass (tech said failed cuz didn't have enough miles since battery was disconnected while I was getting the stupid pulley fixed at the dealership). Sorry so long winded. I am fed up with this POS. It looks great and is fast, but what a nightmare!
Any advice to fix would be appreciated. Thanks
Scott
I bought and installed a Braille lightweight battery that is rated for Daily use. (Maybe I should have gone with OEM type battery). It drained and ruined the 1st Braille after sitting for 4 or 5 days. 2nd Braille installed and was doing great. I took it to work and made a couple stops. I literally went into one of my doc's offices for 5 minutes,came out and it doesn't recognize my FOB. Alarm works, light in engine works, but no response from computer to recognize FOB. I put FOB in glove compartment spot with no luck. What am I to do?
I will disconnect battery and try to reset computer, but here's my other frickin dilema. I FAILED EMISSIONS! I have a 7 day sticker to log enough miles to pass (tech said failed cuz didn't have enough miles since battery was disconnected while I was getting the stupid pulley fixed at the dealership). Sorry so long winded. I am fed up with this POS. It looks great and is fast, but what a nightmare!
Any advice to fix would be appreciated. Thanks
Scott
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Carpentersville Illinois
Odyssey for the family
I'll try that. Thanks. Ok, so I went back to the car and it still wasn't recognizing the FOB. I disconnected the battery and whammoooo! It now magically works!
Anyone else experience this? FOB working fine the whole day and then it decides not to work.
I wish they would just have a regular turn key ignition system. Good news is the battery is fine.
Now I have to try to keep the FOB working for a couple hundred miles to log miles on the computer so that I can pass emission and buy my Illinois sticker with the frickin late fee. At least it is supposed to be 70 and sunny tomorrow. peace
Anyone else experience this? FOB working fine the whole day and then it decides not to work.
I wish they would just have a regular turn key ignition system. Good news is the battery is fine. Now I have to try to keep the FOB working for a couple hundred miles to log miles on the computer so that I can pass emission and buy my Illinois sticker with the frickin late fee. At least it is supposed to be 70 and sunny tomorrow. peace
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 40,887
Likes: 4,342
From: Lakewood Ranch, FL
Have you had the reflash of the BCM that supposedly cures DBS?
Do you park in reverse?
The 'computer' does not reset - it is a myth.
To get rid of the 'not ready' condition(s):
Do you park in reverse?
The 'computer' does not reset - it is a myth.
To get rid of the 'not ready' condition(s):
General Motors' OBD-II driving cycle
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBD-II Driving cycle do the following:
1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.
To perform an OBD-II Driving cycle do the following:
1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at start-up. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift or touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
_Sloth Whisperer_
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 9
From: Malaysia Air Flight 370
Yeah. Pretty much all of that. Is yours an '05, too? I like my car, but I make no bones about it being a piece of $hit. Cause it is. It's a quick piece of $hit though.
I've got a thread titled "post-warranty wrap up" thats a few months old that details the dozen or so warranty-trips I made to the dealer... if you feel like consoling yourself. Lol.
The early C6's are laughably unreliable. Sucks, but what can you do...
I've got a thread titled "post-warranty wrap up" thats a few months old that details the dozen or so warranty-trips I made to the dealer... if you feel like consoling yourself. Lol.
The early C6's are laughably unreliable. Sucks, but what can you do...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Carpentersville Illinois
Yup, 05
I feel your pain. Wish I would have done more research before buying an 05. I knew better too, never buy the 1st model year of any car! I just fell in love with the Lemans blue and titanium interior color scheme. It was a z51 6 speed manual.... Low miles, low price- 3lt, should have just waited and got a bare bones 08 during winter when prices are low. No turning back now.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Carpentersville Illinois
Thanks to Johnodrake
I followed the sequence that you posted as best I could on public roads and passed emissions today. Thanks for your input. It's great to have a forum to help people out like this.
Scott
Scott
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
Congrats on the emission pass. I'm wondering if your new battery was all that it was supposed to be? Some new batteries are worthless from the start. I'm putting on the miles to my '07 and learning as I go, but have tons of experience with the C-5's. A bad battery connection on those, low voltage(anything below 12.6 static), lose battery to starter connection... any of those, its not going to work. I assume its similar for the C-6's.
