LS2 crank pully - not "if" but "when"
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Joined: May 2008
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LS2 crank pully - not "if" but "when"
Just another data point for you guys with an 05 low vin # that havnt got the crank pully service bulliten done yet - My car just rolled over
40K miles, I heard the belt squeek and rattle a bit this morning when I fired her up. Sure enough, I could back the bolt out with my fingers. I was able to get it snugged up with a cressent so my entire holiday weekend isnt going to be ruined at the stealership (although I certainly wont be driving it
) I have been keeping an eye on it for a wile, the last check was last weekend and it was fine (my point being that it failed quickly, perhaps because this was the first week I have been running AC in a long time). I have read several posts stating that if you get past the 15 to 20 K marker without a problem then you should be fine.....well, here is a post to the contrary. Be safe out there guys!
:smas h:
40K miles, I heard the belt squeek and rattle a bit this morning when I fired her up. Sure enough, I could back the bolt out with my fingers. I was able to get it snugged up with a cressent so my entire holiday weekend isnt going to be ruined at the stealership (although I certainly wont be driving it
) I have been keeping an eye on it for a wile, the last check was last weekend and it was fine (my point being that it failed quickly, perhaps because this was the first week I have been running AC in a long time). I have read several posts stating that if you get past the 15 to 20 K marker without a problem then you should be fine.....well, here is a post to the contrary. Be safe out there guys! :smas h:
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: TEXOMA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
there is NO WAY you tighened it enough with just a crescent wrench,, its torque to 240ftpounds then new bold 37ft pounds, then torque 140 degrees, making sure to exceed something like 260ft pounds minimum.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,083
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From: Buena Park CA
IMO, it's one of the worst "backward" designs GM has ever come up with! To eliminate the keyway on the crankshaft and pulley was a completely moronic idea on their part; more than likely it was the decision of a manager, and hopefully not an engineer, trying to make themselves look good by reverse engineering an item to save money....ludicrous! (Now, it's probably costing GM more...)
The best cure and future prevention IMO is replace the OEM pulley with an underdrive pulley (such as the SLP PowerBond), also install a crankshaft pin kit (from Magnuson Superchargers or ARP), and use a chromemoly crankshaft balancer bolt from ARP (Summit Racing), so you only have to torque the bolt to about 75 ft-lbs just like the "old days", not the 240 ft-lb 140 degree requirement using the lame-*** OEM stretch bolt! OMG, how stupid is that? Then reprogram your computer to increase the idle up to 700 RPM and you won't have any electrical issues with the alternator. You'll be done happy with an added 10HP, and secure that the pulley will not slip and damage itself and the nose of the crankshaft. This is extremely cheap compared what you could go through if you don't do this.
The best cure and future prevention IMO is replace the OEM pulley with an underdrive pulley (such as the SLP PowerBond), also install a crankshaft pin kit (from Magnuson Superchargers or ARP), and use a chromemoly crankshaft balancer bolt from ARP (Summit Racing), so you only have to torque the bolt to about 75 ft-lbs just like the "old days", not the 240 ft-lb 140 degree requirement using the lame-*** OEM stretch bolt! OMG, how stupid is that? Then reprogram your computer to increase the idle up to 700 RPM and you won't have any electrical issues with the alternator. You'll be done happy with an added 10HP, and secure that the pulley will not slip and damage itself and the nose of the crankshaft. This is extremely cheap compared what you could go through if you don't do this.
