I need help with valve adjustment.....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
Ok, just a quick update.
Now that my neighbor isn't involved in the project I've finally made some good progress. I read and re-read Crane's instructions and then did the same with Vinci's instructions on his website. The two really do go hand-in-hand and I chose to follow Vinci's instructions.
I found a couple of posts here on the forum that said 1 1/4 turns down was optimal for these rocker arms so that is what I started with. I got the 1 1/4 turns in and tested compression on all 8 cylinders before proceeding. I had 230 psi on 5 of them and 210 on the other 3. That all seemed reasonable so I buttoned everything back up and started it up. The engine seemed to be running fine so I called it a night. I drove it to work the next day and decided that the valve train was a little too noisy for my taste. So, a day or so later, I broke into it again and ended up another half turn down on the rocker nuts to 1 3/4 turns down. This puts me in the range that Crane recommends (1 1/2 to 2 turns). I checked compression on 3 of the cylinders and they came to about 205 psi each. Happy with that, I fired it up after buttoning everything up again. The valve train seemed pretty quiet compared to what I was hearing before and what I remember from the stock components when they were in.
Unfortunately, so I've found, is that when the engine heats up after going to or from work, the valve train is back to being fairly noisy again. It's not bad when the engine is cool and seems ok to me when cool. But let it warm up and boy are those rocker arms noisy.
I think I'm going to change the oil on Saturday and see if that helps the situation. Having never run the 1.8:1 ratio Crane Gold Race rocker arms before I really do not know how much noise to expect. I didn't expect them to be really noisy though and find it odd that the noise gets worse when everything gets hot under the hood.
I'll post another update after I change the oil.
Now that my neighbor isn't involved in the project I've finally made some good progress. I read and re-read Crane's instructions and then did the same with Vinci's instructions on his website. The two really do go hand-in-hand and I chose to follow Vinci's instructions.
I found a couple of posts here on the forum that said 1 1/4 turns down was optimal for these rocker arms so that is what I started with. I got the 1 1/4 turns in and tested compression on all 8 cylinders before proceeding. I had 230 psi on 5 of them and 210 on the other 3. That all seemed reasonable so I buttoned everything back up and started it up. The engine seemed to be running fine so I called it a night. I drove it to work the next day and decided that the valve train was a little too noisy for my taste. So, a day or so later, I broke into it again and ended up another half turn down on the rocker nuts to 1 3/4 turns down. This puts me in the range that Crane recommends (1 1/2 to 2 turns). I checked compression on 3 of the cylinders and they came to about 205 psi each. Happy with that, I fired it up after buttoning everything up again. The valve train seemed pretty quiet compared to what I was hearing before and what I remember from the stock components when they were in.
Unfortunately, so I've found, is that when the engine heats up after going to or from work, the valve train is back to being fairly noisy again. It's not bad when the engine is cool and seems ok to me when cool. But let it warm up and boy are those rocker arms noisy.
I think I'm going to change the oil on Saturday and see if that helps the situation. Having never run the 1.8:1 ratio Crane Gold Race rocker arms before I really do not know how much noise to expect. I didn't expect them to be really noisy though and find it odd that the noise gets worse when everything gets hot under the hood.
I'll post another update after I change the oil.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
Ok, fresh Mobil 1 and new filter. Still noisy; worse when hot. I've googled around and it looks like these rocker arms are just plain noisy. Anybody else have experience with the Crane Gold 1.8's?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 3
From: Buena Park CA
Wow, I have never used the "Crane Gold" rocker arms, but it seems to me what you're going through with the noise level and the adjustments of 1 1/2 to 2 full turns just seems incredibly weird to me.
I've used Crane roller rockers (1.52 and 1.6's) on my 91 Camaro and currently have the Comp Cams (1.85's) on my Corvette using the exact procedure I have described in the FAQ with perfect results. I found out by experimentation that using the manufacturers' instructions of 1/2 turn was not enough (too noisy) and that 1 full turn was too much where the engine was quiet, but was running rough due to the fact that the valves were probably not fully closing. So, again it seemed when I adjusted them 5/8 turn after "Zero Lash" both engines run quiet and strong. 3/4 turn was ok, too, but I wanted to make sure the valves were closing, so I stuck with the 5/8 turn and to this day it still runs quiet as if they were stockers.
I find it odd that your "Gold" rockers would be normally noisy or maybe you now have some damaged lifters (I hope not) where they are not pumping up all the way with oil or they are bleeding down too quickly when they get hot.....I don't know, but I guess time will tell because if they are bad now they will get worse (won't pump up at all) and you'll definately know about it, good luck.
I've used Crane roller rockers (1.52 and 1.6's) on my 91 Camaro and currently have the Comp Cams (1.85's) on my Corvette using the exact procedure I have described in the FAQ with perfect results. I found out by experimentation that using the manufacturers' instructions of 1/2 turn was not enough (too noisy) and that 1 full turn was too much where the engine was quiet, but was running rough due to the fact that the valves were probably not fully closing. So, again it seemed when I adjusted them 5/8 turn after "Zero Lash" both engines run quiet and strong. 3/4 turn was ok, too, but I wanted to make sure the valves were closing, so I stuck with the 5/8 turn and to this day it still runs quiet as if they were stockers.
I find it odd that your "Gold" rockers would be normally noisy or maybe you now have some damaged lifters (I hope not) where they are not pumping up all the way with oil or they are bleeding down too quickly when they get hot.....I don't know, but I guess time will tell because if they are bad now they will get worse (won't pump up at all) and you'll definately know about it, good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 34
From: King George Virginia
Correct adjusting instructions crane 1.8 rockers
Proper Technique for Adjusting Crane Roller Rockers for the LS Series Engines.
Written by Roger Vinci
We have had several questions from individuals installing our Crane Gold Race LS1 Rocker
Arms about why we wrote the instructions the way we did. Our premise was that most of
the time, these rockers would be installed on the engine with the engine in the vehicle. The
most important of these considerations is that the stock LS1 valve springs have relatively
low seat pressures (70# new and frequently 55-60# after 20-30,000 miles of use). Our
instructions call for a procedure of turning the crankshaft 2 to 3 full revolutions,
incrementally, and adjusting any loose rockers to zero lash. Here is where the confusion
occurs.
Zero lash should be determined by carefully lifting up on the front of the rocker arm.. at the
roller tip and letting the rocker fall against the valve stem. The loose motion, or lash, causes
the rocker to click against the valve stem. The adjusting nut should then be adjusted
clockwise, by finger, a little at a time, until the click or loose motion is just removed. Do not
turn the nut any tighter for this will depress the pushrod into the lifter. When in doubt, back
off the nut and repeat the procedure. When all 16 nuts have been zeroed, the engine must be
rotated, from the crank pulley bolt, or with a strap wrench. I recommend rotating about 1/4
to 1/2 turn at a time. You will need to rotate the crankshaft a full six turns to ensure all of
the rockers have cycled completely before you have finished the next phase of the
procedure. When you check for zero lash again, you will see that some of the rockers are
loose because the cam has rotated and those lifters have moved toward the base circle.
Simply repeat the rocker arm lash checking and adjusting procedure again. Remember! Only
tighten the nuts "by finger" on the obvious loose rockers, and only enough to cause the tip
of the rocker to lightly rest on the valve stem. Next rotate the engine another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Check lash and adjust again. Repeat the lash checking and engine rotating until you no
longer have any loose "clicking rockers", you are finished with step one. Again, please note
that sometimes the engine must be rotated several times before all the loose rockers are at
zero lash. Now, that the "0" lash procedure is complete. you will not rotate the engine again.
Step two requires you to tighten the adjusting nuts on all 16 rockers 1/4 turn. Wait about 5
minutes and repeat. That is, rotate the rocker nuts another 1/4 turn. Wait 5 minutes and
rotate the nuts 1/4 turn again. You must rotate the rocker nuts, in this manner a full 1 and
1/2 to 1 and 3/4 turns, so keep an accurate count of the number of times you make 1/4 turn
adjustments. You must wait 5 minutes between each 1/4 turn rotation to prevent the
depressed valves from contacting the pistons. When you have finished the adjustment
procedure, tighten the jamb nuts by holding the adjusting nut with your wrench and adjusting
the Allen screw until it contacts the stud, with an Allen tool. Then rotate the tools
simultaneously clockwise about 1/8 turn to complete the adjusting procedure. The Allen
screw should never be torqued more than 20ft lbs. At this time it is a good idea to take a
compression test to insure that all cylinders have equal pressure. A low compression
cylinder probably has a rocker that is too tight. It is real easy, now, to readjust the rocker
before installing the valve covers etc. All of this is necessary to allow the “relatively weak”
stock valve springs to “bleed down” the hydraulic plunger in the lifter to allow proper lifter
preload adjustment. If this procedure is not followed, valves could be “hanging open” when
the engine is cranked over. This could result in bent valves. We realize that this procedure
seems unnecessary or “overly-complicated” at first glance; but it works and, in the long run,
minimizes installation aggravation. The use of higher seat pressure springs can reduce the
waiting periods from 10 minutes slightly, during rocker arm installation. If the rockers are
being installed as part of a complete rebuild, we recommend adjusting lifter preload to .060 -
.100.” Extensive testing has shown this preload to provide the best power and performance,
as well as minimizing valve train noise. When the engine is started for the first few times an
audible clicking valve train noise may be heard. Run the engine for about fifteen minutes.
Written by Roger Vinci
We have had several questions from individuals installing our Crane Gold Race LS1 Rocker
Arms about why we wrote the instructions the way we did. Our premise was that most of
the time, these rockers would be installed on the engine with the engine in the vehicle. The
most important of these considerations is that the stock LS1 valve springs have relatively
low seat pressures (70# new and frequently 55-60# after 20-30,000 miles of use). Our
instructions call for a procedure of turning the crankshaft 2 to 3 full revolutions,
incrementally, and adjusting any loose rockers to zero lash. Here is where the confusion
occurs.
Zero lash should be determined by carefully lifting up on the front of the rocker arm.. at the
roller tip and letting the rocker fall against the valve stem. The loose motion, or lash, causes
the rocker to click against the valve stem. The adjusting nut should then be adjusted
clockwise, by finger, a little at a time, until the click or loose motion is just removed. Do not
turn the nut any tighter for this will depress the pushrod into the lifter. When in doubt, back
off the nut and repeat the procedure. When all 16 nuts have been zeroed, the engine must be
rotated, from the crank pulley bolt, or with a strap wrench. I recommend rotating about 1/4
to 1/2 turn at a time. You will need to rotate the crankshaft a full six turns to ensure all of
the rockers have cycled completely before you have finished the next phase of the
procedure. When you check for zero lash again, you will see that some of the rockers are
loose because the cam has rotated and those lifters have moved toward the base circle.
Simply repeat the rocker arm lash checking and adjusting procedure again. Remember! Only
tighten the nuts "by finger" on the obvious loose rockers, and only enough to cause the tip
of the rocker to lightly rest on the valve stem. Next rotate the engine another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Check lash and adjust again. Repeat the lash checking and engine rotating until you no
longer have any loose "clicking rockers", you are finished with step one. Again, please note
that sometimes the engine must be rotated several times before all the loose rockers are at
zero lash. Now, that the "0" lash procedure is complete. you will not rotate the engine again.
Step two requires you to tighten the adjusting nuts on all 16 rockers 1/4 turn. Wait about 5
minutes and repeat. That is, rotate the rocker nuts another 1/4 turn. Wait 5 minutes and
rotate the nuts 1/4 turn again. You must rotate the rocker nuts, in this manner a full 1 and
1/2 to 1 and 3/4 turns, so keep an accurate count of the number of times you make 1/4 turn
adjustments. You must wait 5 minutes between each 1/4 turn rotation to prevent the
depressed valves from contacting the pistons. When you have finished the adjustment
procedure, tighten the jamb nuts by holding the adjusting nut with your wrench and adjusting
the Allen screw until it contacts the stud, with an Allen tool. Then rotate the tools
simultaneously clockwise about 1/8 turn to complete the adjusting procedure. The Allen
screw should never be torqued more than 20ft lbs. At this time it is a good idea to take a
compression test to insure that all cylinders have equal pressure. A low compression
cylinder probably has a rocker that is too tight. It is real easy, now, to readjust the rocker
before installing the valve covers etc. All of this is necessary to allow the “relatively weak”
stock valve springs to “bleed down” the hydraulic plunger in the lifter to allow proper lifter
preload adjustment. If this procedure is not followed, valves could be “hanging open” when
the engine is cranked over. This could result in bent valves. We realize that this procedure
seems unnecessary or “overly-complicated” at first glance; but it works and, in the long run,
minimizes installation aggravation. The use of higher seat pressure springs can reduce the
waiting periods from 10 minutes slightly, during rocker arm installation. If the rockers are
being installed as part of a complete rebuild, we recommend adjusting lifter preload to .060 -
.100.” Extensive testing has shown this preload to provide the best power and performance,
as well as minimizing valve train noise. When the engine is started for the first few times an
audible clicking valve train noise may be heard. Run the engine for about fifteen minutes.
Vary the rpms up and down during the procedure. After this run in time, the lifters, pushrods,
and rockers should fill with oil and the noise will subside. The tech department at Crane will
and rockers should fill with oil and the noise will subside. The tech department at Crane will
gladly help you through this procedure if issues occur. 866-388-5120
This is a PITA but it works.... When they are right there is little to no noise. When they are wrong there is noise low oil pressure and the car runs like crap. ASK ME HOW I KNOW....... There is not a lot of wiggle room betwen right and wrong.
Last edited by 08 ATOMIC-Z; Jun 20, 2011 at 03:15 PM. Reason: More Info.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Depends on what your definition of noisy is. Don't forget, some of the noise can be the fuel injectors, too.
I installed Yella Terra 1.7 non-adjustable full roller rockers. The lifter preload is set by the pushrod length only. There is no lash adjustment. The preload is between 1/4 and 1 full turn.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 34
From: King George Virginia
The LS valve train is noisy even with full roller rocker arms.
Depends on what your definition of noisy is. Don't forget, some of the noise can be the fuel injectors, too.
I installed Yella Terra 1.7 non-adjustable full roller rockers. The lifter preload is set by the pushrod length only. There is no lash adjustment. The preload is between 1/4 and 1 full turn.
Depends on what your definition of noisy is. Don't forget, some of the noise can be the fuel injectors, too.
I installed Yella Terra 1.7 non-adjustable full roller rockers. The lifter preload is set by the pushrod length only. There is no lash adjustment. The preload is between 1/4 and 1 full turn.
Yella Terra or anyother NON ADJUSTABLES are not in the same as these. Any one can slap non adjustables on there as is no skill involved if you can read a torq wrench. These are FULL ADJUSTABLE rockers and you have to follow a set procrdure or thay will not be right no matter what you do. I posted these above in this thread. However you will still have to check if the full 2 turns after 0 lash are what your car likes. I can't use 2 full turns after 0 lash on my car as it likes 1.5 turns best.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 34
From: King George Virginia
