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I think my alternator is crapping out. My battery volts are dropping into the 11's while Im at a stop light. I had it check and the output amps are good but the volts seem bad.
Does anyone know if the alternator for the C5 is the same as the C6? Does my problem sound like an alternator or should I start looking somewhere else?
I think my alternator is crapping out. My battery volts are dropping into the 11's while Im at a stop light. I had it check and the output amps are good but the volts seem bad.
Does anyone know if the alternator for the C5 is the same as the C6? Does my problem sound like an alternator or should I start looking somewhere else?
Need more info. How many accessories are running when this occurs ? If you raise the rpms, does the voltage increase ? What is your voltage at cruise speed ? If you have normal voltage at cruise with the same accessories on , your alternator is probably ok. Also check your belt condition and tension, slippage can also cause this condition. Also an undersized or not fully charged battery can cause this. Lastly, you can have the alternator load tested to determine if it is performing up to its rated output. Test before you replace.
I think my alternator is crapping out. My battery volts are dropping into the 11's while Im at a stop light. I had it check and the output amps are good but the volts seem bad.
Does anyone know if the alternator for the C5 is the same as the C6? Does my problem sound like an alternator or should I start looking somewhere else?
Your profile shows you have an u/d pulley. That is probably your problem. The pulley isn't turning the alternator fast enough to put out the max. charge voltage.. Increasing idle speed will adjust for this. Some will say program it out, that does not take care of the problem it only hides it. Then if it does go bad you will not know because it's no longer in the program. I don't know how many rpms it needs, probably a 10% increase in idle would increase the pully speed by 10%. Maybe a tuner will help out here.
Your profile shows you have an u/d pulley. That is probably your problem. The pulley isn't turning the alternator fast enough to put out the max. charge voltage.. Increasing idle speed will adjust for this. Some will say program it out, that does not take care of the problem it only hides it. Then if it does go bad you will not know because it's no longer in the program. I don't know how many rpms it needs, probably a 10% increase in idle would increase the pully speed by 10%. Maybe a tuner will help out here.
UD pulleys arent worth it, for the minimal hp gain the tradeoff of reduced water pump flow and electrical charging its just not worth it. Unless your a serious drag guy looking to shave thousandths od seconds.
Well I didnt know the UD pulley could cause that issue. I have recently lowered my idle as well. I guess I will try to raise it some and hopefully correct the issue.
I had the alternator tested already and the volts read low. The only accessory on was the A/C and the radio. It was day time so no headlights. I dont have an aftermarket stereo so its not getting extra pull from that. Does anybody happen to know off hand how many amps and volts is normal output for the alternator? I know the battery is good too. Its brand new.
Well I didnt know the UD pulley could cause that issue. I have recently lowered my idle as well. I guess I will try to raise it some and hopefully correct the issue.
I had the alternator tested already and the volts read low. The only accessory on was the A/C and the radio. It was day time so no headlights. I dont have an aftermarket stereo so its not getting extra pull from that. Does anybody happen to know off hand how many amps and volts is normal output for the alternator? I know the battery is good too. Its brand new.
The a/c is enough to cause this problem and lowering the idle speed put the frosting on the cake. The alternators proper output voltage needs a minimum rpm, the u/d pulley reduces that rpm by 10 or 15%, depending which one you have, thus not allowing to turn fast enough to generate the max. output voltage needed for proper operation. If you put the idle speed back to where it was, your problem should go away. Good luck and let us know if this takes care of it.
Well I didnt know the UD pulley could cause that issue. I have recently lowered my idle as well. I guess I will try to raise it some and hopefully correct the issue.
I had the alternator tested already and the volts read low. The only accessory on was the A/C and the radio. It was day time so no headlights. I dont have an aftermarket stereo so its not getting extra pull from that. Does anybody happen to know off hand how many amps and volts is normal output for the alternator? I know the battery is good too. Its brand new.
yes but your foot was on the brake, or the engine fan was on it starts pulling down but when your moving its fine, the battery is good, if you have the normal size battery you can watch the gauge go down further the longer you set at idle put your foot on the gas and it will go down slower at a stop, bring the idle up too at least 750 -850
yes but your foot was on the brake, or the engine fan was on it starts pulling down but when your moving its fine, the battery is good, if you have the normal size battery you can watch the gauge go down further the longer you set at idle put your foot on the gas and it will go down slower at a stop, bring the idle up too at least 750 -850
It has manifested itself more now that it is hot. I guess the fan kicking on more and staying on could also be adding to the issue.
I have the SLP Powerbond UD pulley. It's a 25% reduction in RPM. It's true that if you did not reprogram your computer to increase the idle speeds (there are two of them; in Park and in Gear) up by 25%, then you will have electrical issues with your "Alternator". If you indeed have the 25% UD, simply increase the idle speeds up to 700 RPM's, then you'll be fine.
OEM idle: ~550 RPM
Increase: 550 x .25 = 138 RPM
New idle: 550 + 138 = 688 ~ 700 RPM
Increase your computer in 50 RPM steps (if yours is like mine, you have no choice) of 150 RPM's and you'll be just fine.
I have the SLP Powerbond UD pulley. It's a 25% reduction in RPM. It's true that if you did not reprogram your computer to increase the idle speeds (there are two of them; in Park and in Gear) up by 25%, then you will have electrical issues with your "Alternator". If you indeed have the 25% UD, simply increase the idle speeds up to 700 RPM's, then you'll be fine.
OEM idle: ~550 RPM
Increase: 550 x .25 = 138 RPM
New idle: 550 + 138 = 688 ~ 700 RPM
Increase your computer in 50 RPM steps (if yours is like mine, you have no choice) of 150 RPM's and you'll be just fine.
Great info. I didn't know the actual numbers, thanks to you I do now. This is what the OP is looking for.
UD pulleys arent worth it, for the minimal hp gain the tradeoff of reduced water pump flow and electrical charging its just not worth it. Unless your a serious drag guy looking to shave thousandths od seconds.
Hot Rod Magazine tested ud pulleys some years ago, that’s exactly what they found.
I have an overdrive pulley still attached to a ho alt. The alt has bad bearings (it works but make a supecharger whine at idle) if you want it let me know. $40 plus shipping at the whole thing is yours)