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I have the SLP PowerBond 25% UD pulley on my 07 C6 A6. The only issue was charging at idle, which was cured by simply reprogramming the computer to increase the idle up to 700 RPM......purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, no issues.
[QUOTE=Jimmy 2 Times;1570773238]funny, I was just thinking why don't more C6 guys have ud pullies. I gained 9rhwp on my 2001 ss STOCK (except for a cat back)
I do have a UD 25% on my LS2. I think the pulley should be pinned anytime you replace a Pulley.
Waste of time and money, mostly a mod done by Mustang owners. For only 7 HP I can modify or add something that gives a better bang for the buck. I had an ASP underdrive pulley and it was a complete POS - had a wobble in it right from new. Replaced with a Powerbond, (stock configuration). Still testing right now but runs true and looks better built than GM's stock junk.
Waste of time and money, mostly a mod done by Mustang owners. For only 7 HP I can modify or add something that gives a better bang for the buck.
Lots of F-body and C-5 guys ran them. I got a .1 and 1 mph at the track with mine (F-body) and I know plenty of guys reporting similar results. For about $200 that's a good result and the absolute expenditure fits within most people's budget. If it weren't such a PIA on the C6 to install, I would have one now.
From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
Originally Posted by Bvette2000
Waste of time and money, mostly a mod done by Mustang owners. For only 7 HP I can modify or add something that gives a better bang for the buck. I had an ASP underdrive pulley and it was a complete POS - had a wobble in it right from new. Replaced with a Powerbond, (stock configuration). Still testing right now but runs true and looks better built than GM's stock junk.
What can you add for $200 that will give you a better bang for your buck? Realize that most modders aren't just throwing on an UD pulley with nothing else. They probably already have cai, headers, tune, and are most likely in the middle of a cam swap and maybe ported intake/heads. As a stand alone it's probably not worth the install price/work but it's certainly a worthwhile addition to the continuing mod process.
I've got an 05 with the infamous wobbly factory dampner, but the car doesn't fall into the service bulletin serial number list, plus it's out of warranty anyway. To get a factory replacement costs the same as buying the SLP and paying the dealership to install it. I just got off the phone with the service manager and he's asking about the keyway and if the new bolt seals it up ok, or is ther something else that needs to be done to prevent leakage, like sealant or something. Not happy they aren't more familiar with this mod, but thought I would ask here while trying to get ahold of SLP.
There are many of those who install a UD without a cam swap. and therefore dont raise their idles.
in fact there was someone here who had that exact issue here a week or two ago with a dipping voltmeter.
The question I have for you is. What happens at 3000RPM(for example) while driving down the road making alot of HP on a 100 degree day. not at a raised idle to make up the 25% loss in flow. 3000RPM minus 25% flow of the stock pulley? Seems to me that car might run hotter or overheat more easily and quickly than one with the stock pulley.Maybe Im mistaken.
Yes you are mistaken. I dont get why but you seem insistent to come up with reasons for the mod not to work. If a guy gets this mod and needs an idle raise and wont do it, he is obviously in the rare minority. If thats the case then fine dont get it but it seems silly to be trying to sway people from getting it based on a premise that raising the idle is such a big thing.
Raise the idle. Consider it a mandator part of getting the 9HP.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Jul 14, 2009 at 07:30 PM.
Lots of F-body and C-5 guys ran them. I got a .1 and 1 mph at the track with mine (F-body) and I know plenty of guys reporting similar results. For about $200 that's a good result and the absolute expenditure fits within most people's budget. If it weren't such a PIA on the C6 to install, I would have one now.
Originally Posted by k0bun
What can you add for $200 that will give you a better bang for your buck? Realize that most modders aren't just throwing on an UD pulley with nothing else. They probably already have cai, headers, tune, and are most likely in the middle of a cam swap and maybe ported intake/heads. As a stand alone it's probably not worth the install price/work but it's certainly a worthwhile addition to the continuing mod process.
I think both you guys just answered your own questions in your above statements, to each his own but I'm on the other side of the fence on this one.
1. It's not worth doing unless you have the car already torn apart.
2. It's a PIA to install.
3. A ported throttle body falls within most peoples budget and so does a ported intake.
3. Not just a measly $200.00 - usual price range for a quality underdrive unit (complete) is $300 to $500.
maybe I am too new to wrenching vettes (as mine is still stock for now), but why is it such a pita on a C6? I could do it on my fbody in about 10 minutes
maybe I am too new to wrenching vettes (as mine is still stock for now), but why is it such a pita on a C6? I could do it on my fbody in about 10 minutes
The steering rack needs to be removed since it will not allow you to pull the balancer from the crank. Take a peek down there and try to tough the crank bolt with your fingers.
I run a 25% with an 800rpm idle and have no issues at all. The car never runs over 200 degress and the charging is in the 13's all the time even sitting at the light in gear (A6).
BTW, there is a large difference in weight between the stock and UD balancer.
keep in mind, i wouldnt do the UD pully till i did a cam swap, so the whole rack would be out anyway.. has anyone tested 10vs25vs35% power wise? is it wiser to pin the crank when you do this? which pullys seem to be the best quality?
From: Birmingham, AL www.hinsonsupercars.com 205-909-9402
Pinning the crank is not necessary. ATI is the best quality (hence the price). We use and sell more of the SLP units though and have never had a problem with them. Both are SFI approved.
ah, that explains it......although the rack should only be a few bolts no?
Yes its only 2 bolts and 2 hydraulic lines....and the tie rod ends. You should move the sway bar down too.
Its heavy and has to be moved by turning it and moving it to the passenger side of the engine bay to get it out of the way or remove it.
The point is that it looks simple on paper until you try one for yourself. You always forget how the hydaulic lines were routed to the position they need to be in.
It briefs well, It sounds easy, It looks easy on paper, but it's not.
I would add that having an extra pair of hands, eyes, and Service Manuals will also help. When I did my cam job I had my father help me. It was great having that other mind to say no, no, no not like that. Try this instead.
Try to make sure you have everything you need before you start your project. It really sucks to find out you need something and BAM, the place you need to go is closed. That sucks.
Just my .02 cents.
Last edited by Nightstalker Medic; Jul 16, 2009 at 12:55 AM.
I just got my 05 back from the dealer service department yesterday. They only charged me $490 labor to install the SLP pulley and new belt both of which I bought myself. They didn't have to disconnect the tie rod ends or anything else that would require an alignment. I noticed the voltmeter reading was dropping down to the low 12's at idle with the air conditioner blowing, but once I hooked my 1.5 farad capacitor back uo to the system (i've got a Kicker solobaric L7 12 and 750 watt rms amp), it stays above 13.
It feels so much more comfortable getting the wobbling crankshaft pulley replaced. I was worried something else was going to break besides the belt wearing out twice within 1 year and 3000 miles.