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I think I have a lead on a ZR1 motor... Would I have to change all the electrical etc.. any idea how much of a job it would be to put it in an 05 (A4) I WANT to keep the A4 because I drag race the car, (Yes I know I'll have to upgrade the trans and rear...
Just wondering if going that route is worth the $$ and work, or just upgrade my rear, & do head & cam etc...etc.. on my LS2
I know I can get my LS2 to run low 11's and still be fine on the street... BUT the ZR! setup would be AWESOME & yes I'd have to take a home equity loan probibly...
I think I have a lead on a ZR1 motor... Would I have to change all the electrical etc..
Yes. It could end up being an electrical/PCM/TCM nightmare as well as a fitment issue (new hood to clear the blower, battery relocation to clear the dry sump oil tank etc.).
Originally Posted by jpee
or just upgrade my rear, & do head & cam etc...etc.. on my LS2
Yes.
Originally Posted by jpee
I know I can get my LS2 to run low 11's and still be fine on the street...
last i knew, ZR1 motors where going for 21k. G.D.! throw in a high stall and a S/C setup from ECS or A&A and write me a check for the remaining 11k. ill buy the beer!
last i knew, ZR1 motors where going for 21k. G.D.! throw in a high stall and a S/C setup from ECS or A&A and write me a check for the remaining 11k. ill buy the beer!
-carl
This one is out of a wreck... could get it for less than 21K but I'm a lot better off modding the LS2.. less $$ less problems, and a lot easier to accomplish...
Was just a thought because I found the connection to the ZR1 motor for less than the 21k (Asking $17,000) with 2300 miles on it...
Was just a thought because I found the connection to the ZR1 motor for less than the 21k (Asking $17,000) with 2300 miles on it...
That's a good deal for sure but it's certainly not a 'way too good to walk away from' type of deal either.
I thought you were talking like only $12k or something.
Originally Posted by goatts
Sounds like a nightmare. If you just want to go fast, wouldn't supercharging/nitrous be the ticket?
A blower is one option but I don't think nitrous is a good choice for John, he bracket races far too often to deal with the potential inconsistencies of nitrous use.
for 17k you can build a MONSTER lsx based motor with a blower that would make the ls9 look like a childs toy imo
There is also something cool about a factory assembled motor that makes over 500+rwhp but that blower isn't an ideal design either. Part of the beauty/appeal of the ZR1 and it's motor is that it is a very FAST factory warrantied set up (if left stock) but none of that even applies in this 'major engine swap' scenario of course.
Headers, a properly chosen cam and torque converter and 3.73 gears should put John's car right where he wants it.
There is also something cool about a factory assembled motor that makes over 500+rwhp but that blower isn't an ideal design either. Part of the beauty/appeal of the ZR1 and it's motor is that it is a very FAST factory warrantied set up (if left stock) but none of that even applies in this 'major engine swap' scenario of course.
Headers, a properly chosen cam and torque converter and 3.73 gears should put John's car right where he wants it.
Mark EXACTLY Correct!
Whitelightning also has an excellent point $17k will do a LOT of building to my LS2, Rear, & Trans...
But you know I want (HAVE) to keep the "Drivibility" in my car as I have no place for a trailer.. i have to drive it "To & From" the track, so I have to use some "Restraint" and consider what mods I do to it...
You know I will always be willing to give up .10 or .20 (run 11.7 as opposed to 11.5 for the Consistency I now have! (Thank you Cartek)
Getting into the tech end of the OP's question and getting away from people aswering the questions they want to answer instead of what is asked, the following are issues with the use of the LS9 motor in your 2005 corvette.
The reluctor wheel in the engine will not work in an 05 so it has to be changed to a 24x.
The fuel system in the 2005 is not going to handle the fuel demands of the engine and I dont like the boost-a-pump direction as my fuel pump didnt like it long term. An after market fuel system such as A&A's parallel fuel pump system or ECS's version that also taps the rear fuel tank is needed.
All said and done, the LS9 is a forged lower end with a TVS1900 blower coupled with a twin disc clutch that comes with the LS9 crate motor and the LS9 wont use any other clutch since the crank has a 9 bolt mating to the clutch flywheel. Why is this an issue?..........
I dont see how you can use it with an automatic since the use of the auto's flex plates are 6 bolt for all years. The answer to the flex palte and reluctor wheel would be to swap out the crank for a 6 bolt unit from a 2005. This requires a rotating assembly rebalancing and youre getting into some big bucks....buts thats whats involved to use it in your car.
I can get the entire thing to work with the motor installed with a 24x reluctor wheel, a 6 bolt crank rebalanced rotating assembly, the fuel system installed and good to 1000hp, and fully dyno tuned for 5500.00
You can sell the stock engine intact on Ebay for 3000 to 3500.
Last edited by SpinMonster; Jul 18, 2009 at 10:44 PM.
Getting into the tech end of the OP's question and getting away from people aswering the questions they want to answer instead of what is asked, the following are issues with the use of the LS9 motor in your 2005 corvette.
The reluctor wheel in the engine will not work in an 05 so it has to be changed to a 24x.
The fuel system in the 2005 is not going to handle the fuel demands of the engine and I dont like the boost-a-pump direction as my fuel pump didnt like it long term. An after market fuel system such as A&A's parallel fuel pump system or ECS's version that also taps the rear fuel tank is needed.
All said and done, the LS9 is a forged lower end with a TVS1900 blower coupled with a twin disc clutch that comes with the LS9 crate motor and the LS9 wont use any other clutch since the crank has a 9 bolt mating to the clutch flywheel. Why is this an issue?..........
I dont see how you can use it with an automatic since the use of the auto's flex plates are 6 bolt for all years. The answer to the flex palte and reluctor wheel would be to swap out the crank for a 6 bolt unit from a 2005. This requires a rotating assembly rebalancing and you're getting into some big bucks....buts thats whats involved to use it in your car.
I can get the entire thing to work with the motor installed with a 24x reluctor wheel, a 6 bolt crank rebalanced rotating assembly, the fuel system installed and good to 1000hp, and fully dyno tuned for 5500.00
You can sell the stock engine intact on Ebay for 3000 to 3500.
Your absolutely right... but bottom line I don't think it is the right move "Financially" If I did get the motor for the $17k + the $$ you would charge (I think a very fair price for whats involved) I'm looking at app $22k minus 3 or 4k for my motor ...bottom line between 15 & 16k not counting unforeseen problems...
I'm guessing if I just gave you my car and $6000 I would have a car that would run in the 10's or damn close !! & still be streetible...
BTW as I stated in a prior post.. I'm NOT looking for all out speed.. I'd rather give up 2 or 3 tenths of a second in ET to gain "CONSISTENCY" as I only bracket race...
It would be cool to change it over but I would go with the engine you have modded to the times you are looking for. I would look to the twin turbo or the super's that hang off the front. If you going for looks Seems like i see alot of guys showing 600 plus dyno runs normally aspirated so maybe a cam,head,exhaust etc.. settup for you might be good as well. Would certainly give you the consistency you are looking for. Good luck with your decisions. I wish you were closer i would love to help you out with whatever you do, i put a blower on a chevelle i had 2 years ago and it was the most fun ever. pAuL
Spin has it exactly right ( to no one's surprise).
It can be done.
It is easier than many made it out to be above.
There are some technical details to work out - but they can be worked out.
It will definitely work, but after the cost of the original engine, might want to consider modding the LS2 for the same power levels.
On the other hand - if the "ooh" and "ahh" factor is what you are after - the LS9 is the hands down winner, especially if you are into showing the car.
The September 2009 edition of a popular hot rodding magazine (not a vendor here, so no names, sorry) has a 1969 Camaro with a LS9 transplant. They used the LS7 computer/wiring harness for their project.
They claimed 706 HP on an engine dyno with custom tune, otherwise "as delivered" crate engine components.
But you know I want (HAVE) to keep the "Drivibility" in my car as I have no place for a trailer.. i have to drive it "To & From" the track, so I have to use some "Restraint" and consider what mods I do to it...
You know I will always be willing to give up .10 or .20 (run 11.7 as opposed to 11.5 for the Consistency I now have! (Thank you Cartek)
True, I'm in the same boat, I neither want to buy a trailer with tow vehicle nor would I have the space to store it if I chose to unless I sell my beloved Z28 (which isn't happening LOL).
But I do still want to own a daily drivable Corvette capable of running in the Corvette Challenge Pro 11.50 and QTP EFI 11.50 index events and perhaps even have an outside shot at running a 10.9 second pass in great air all while adhering to somewhat of a budget...and I think Cartek and I might've discovered the key elements to making it all happen.
Your absolutely right... but bottom line I don't think it is the right move "Financially" If I did get the motor for the $17k + the $$ you would charge (I think a very fair price for whats involved) I'm looking at app $22k minus 3 or 4k for my motor ...bottom line between 15 & 16k not counting unforeseen problems...
I'm guessing if I just gave you my car and $6000 I would have a car that would run in the 10's or damn close !! & still be streetible...
BTW as I stated in a prior post.. I'm NOT looking for all out speed.. I'd rather give up 2 or 3 tenths of a second in ET to gain "CONSISTENCY" as I only bracket race...
I dont think its the right move either since a forged short block(3600) and a ECS2200 kit (6000), custom fuel system (1100), with an RPM trans swap with a 3.42 gear 2006+ carrier and higher stall ($3500-4000) and full tuning will give you a consistent high 9 sec/low 10 sec car and fix all drive line and fuel issues with a price tag under 20k fully installed and tuned.....and you still have the LS2 long block you can sell for about 3500. I need 2 weeks with it.
You also get a ported ntake manifold and TB for free along with LS3 heads included for a total output of 650-700rwhp.....or near 800rwhp if you opt for adding meth injection (800 installed and tuned).