Spin--Nuthin shabby about not havin' all the good ideas. Both you and Jeremy are on the top of the heap!

 

 

The Stage 2 intake manifold is $375.00 and if you want to add a ported throttle body, that is $100.00 (save $50.00 off TB by ordering together), plus shipping (usually no more than $20.00). The core charge for both is $550.00 ($275.00 each), it is refunded when we receive your undamaged intake and TB back.

If you elect to ship us your intake and throttle body, the turn around time is typically 2-3 business days.

Our shipping address is:

Fasterproms
19103 Sunlake Blvd.
Lutz, FL 33558

To order call 813 476 7364.

Thank you

Dan

Fasterproms

 

Is the intake gasket reusable? Or would I need to get new ones?

 

They are reusable.

 

For those who have not removed their intakes before, here is a "how to":

Corvette Intake Removal
Tools needed:
3/8” Ratchet or speed wrench and ¼” ratchet
8mm short well,(8mm swivel recommended)
10mm socket deep well
Medium flathead screwdriver
Medium needle nose pliers
Brake cleaner solvent
Rag/ towels
*Tips- Some connectors have light grey slip locks in them (TB, MAF, some injectors) squeeze the sides of the lock and slide it off and then you will be able to pinch the connector to remove it.
-Towels work well as fender covers
Instructions
1) Disconnect and remove the Air intake system and MAF.

2) Disconnect the following electrical connectors: throttle body, MAP sensor(3 wire connector attached to the int manifold behind the TB flange), Evap 2 wire blk (solenoid is mounted on Passenger head) , (The injector wire harness loom is held up by 2 plastic tabs on each side of the fuel rail. These can be removed by a flat blade screwdriver, and pushed back in when you are reinstalling.) Injectors, pinch the end clip and pull. The hard black plastic line is the EVAP. To remove push in the little white ring tab on one side and pull out, give her a slight wiggle and be patient . Remove both lines from the solenoid on the passenger side that crosses over to the driver side of the manifold just behind the TB flange. (Z06s Disconnect PCV line to the passenger side valve cover, it is the same style connector as the one just before the TB on the induction tract) Disconnect the rubber u molded PCV hose on the passenger side of the manifold that connects to the valley cover under the manifold just behind the TB flange.

3) Corvettes require one to loosen the back 4 rear intake bolts with black brackets before you remove all the 4 10mm Fuel rail Studs. Pop the 2 gray plastic supports that hold the thick black corrugated covered wire to the alternator on the driver side studs with a flat blade screwdriver. The back 2 int. man. bolts will not come out until all bolts are removed and the manifold is pulled out. (There is a grounding strap holding down the front driver corner of the rail it is an 8mm intake bolt). (Z06s must lift up the nameplate and swivel toward center of manifold to gain access to the passenger side rear fuel rail stud.) Pry the rail up from the outside using the flat portion of the manifold as a leverage point. This should pop the injectors up out of the manifold. You will have to do this on both sides of the manifold. With the fuel line still attached to the fuel rail, lay it on a towel upside down on driver side of window. Pull the thick Black wire with the gray mounts on it out of the way.

4) Remove the front 8 8mm intake bolts, this will allow the intake to be lifted and pulled forward to remove the back 2 bolts and brake booster line in the rear of the manifold (Z06s remove the vacuum hose). (If you are doing this alone, tape to hold up the back 2 bolts keeps them from catching on the heads.) from the driver side pull out the manifold disconnect the small 3 wire connector for the oil pressure sensor and pull the brake booster line over to gain more working room. OR remove the brake booster line from the booster and feed it back behind the manifold. Once the back 2 bolts have cleared the cowl pull them out. Use the pliers to slide the clip holding the brake booster vacuum line.

5) With the manifold off and the cylinder head intake runners exposed you will find oil in the ports. Any oil consumed lowers octane rating and thus increases the likeliness of spark knock. I use a rag sprayed with brake clean to remove as much oil as possible. Wipe clean all the tips of the injectors and the o rings.

I hope that this helps. It is much easier with it all in front of you. Ultimately, you are responsible for what you do to your car. I have never hurt or damaged any car using this procedure. If you are inexperienced get a qualified mechanic.

 

These are pictures of the just finished LS7:

Throttle opening


Throttle opening


Floor


Intake runner


Intake runner

 

I am having the stage II ported LS3 intake and ported TB put on my car right now with before and after dyno results. Here is the thread. Car is a 08, M6, Z51, 3:90's, Vararam, 60#, EG cam, LT's, catted X, B&B Rt 66, 25% UD pulley. Heads have never been off the car.

 

Here is a good link for those doing there own tuning, or having others do it:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-s...s-and-tbs.html

 

What kind of tool are you guys using to carve out the insides like that? Is removing that post possibly harmful to the sturctural integrity? Just curious.

 

Curious also. Work looks good.

 

We have yet to find one longevity issue with it, and tested it a year on our own LS2 prior to offering them. Different manifolds require different methods, from saws, to drills to hole cutters. NOT recommended to do this if you are not familiar with these manifolds and their limitations. A member on another forum is currently seeking technical advise on figuring out what he did wrong.


Thanks!

 

One question, can TB spacers be used after the TB and mani porting? The spacer will obviously too small after the TB and mani are ported, right? Can the TB spacer also be enlarged to match the TB and manifold opening size?

 

Yes, we can open the spacer up as well to match the throttle opening, just send it with your intake for it to match.

Thanks

Dan
Fasterproms

 

Another LS7 Stage 2 went out to my old home town of Flint Michigan yesterday.

 

Will have it on the Dyno tomorrow

 

I would love to see this Stage 2 vs a FAST 92 vs a ported FAST 92.

 

me too

 

Some testing done by Texas Speed on their engine dyno comparing the stock LS3, our ported LS3 and a FAST 102:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/dynamo...es-inside.html

 

We now have a LS7 dyno to show the gains from a stage 1 to a stage 2;

This Car is an 07 Z06 with the following mods:
Callaway CAI, Fasterproms Ported TB and stg 1 manifold, STOCK EXH manifolds, B&B Fusion catback, Fasterproms custom tune.
Run 1 was a baseline pull with all aforementioned mods, fully optimized.
Run 6 was Stg 2 manifold and a tuning tweak, more fuel.

We were pleased to get this kind of power in weather in 90F + air temps.

Bottom line: Stage 2 over Stage 1 picked up 6 rwhp and 9 rwtq through out the rev range, and 10 and 10 in some areas.

Jeremy Formato