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I was driving at about 70 mph ... service lights came on one at a time related to ABS, AIRBAGS, SERVICE SOON, the throttle cut out, the nav and radio went on and off, and then the brakes and power steering didnt work as the entire car shut off .... all of that happened in about 10 seconds... I coasted along until i made it to the shoulder. Luckily I made it over there.
I had to use the emergency release to get out of the car and then the door wouldnt close again. The dome lights; windshield wipers; and hazard lights still worked for about 2.5 hours while I waited for GM roadside assistance to get me a tow truck. Eventually the battery died. As a result of that the car had to be "dragged" onto the flat bed since it wouldnts start even when it was being jumped so it was locked in park. Not fun watching the dragging process with the rear wheels locked up.
The car is a 2008 automatic with about 32,000 miles on it.
A few days earlier i had no power in the driver door but hadnt got to bringing it in yet.
The car has been at the dealer since Friday. If anyone has any thoughts I'd like to know what might be wrong with my vette.
Has not happened to me, but to the '08 C6 I bought as a GM buyback. Car "died" while being driven 3 times with the original owner between 1K & 3K miles. Replaced the battery twice but wasn't the problem. After GM bought it, a dealer finally found some bad terminal connections into the main computer. Those were fixed, also reprogrammed the A6 tranny, sold the car at auction, I bought it, have put 8K miles on in a year with no issues, including the 800 mi drive home with it.
Dealer ordered a battery so we are waiting on that but it can't possibly be the battery only. The driver door had NO POWER before the problem and the car ran fine. The car also started with no problem and I drove for 1/2 hour with NO problem or indications of a problem until a few seconds of warning indicators and then the car shut off. The battery was still working after the car shut itself off on the highway even after I coasted it in neutral until the car stopped. And I still had full dome lights, wipers, possibly hazards, and the cigarette lighter worked for over 2 hours while waiting for the tow truck.
Replacing the battery will not explain:
Why the driver door had no power?
Why the security system light indicator went on after the door power problem?
Why the car couldn't "see" the key fob all the sudden while driving?
Why the ABS shut itself off?
Why the Airbags were disengaged?
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY WHY THE CAR WENT FROM PERFECTLY FINE TO SHUT OFF at 70 MPH over 1/2 hour into my drive .....
If anyone else has any thoughts let me know. Thanks.
I had a similiar problem with my C5 on two occasions. They replaced a computer component the first time and the complete computer the second. Then I traded the car and my problem was solved forever!
Update - battery was replaced but the car still won't start and has no power. The dealer is being super so I am confident that they will figure it out.
(snip)
Why the car couldn't "see" the key fob all the sudden while driving?
Why the ABS shut itself off?
I can't answer everything, but to the above two points:
The C6 doesn't care about the fob once the car is running. After you start the car, you can toss the fob out the window and continue to drive a thousand miles --- your car won't care. The only time it checks for the fob is when you go to start or shut down the car (or open a door from outside, of course). The fob is NOT needed to keep the car running.
ABS is constantly checking itself for faults. If it had some bad data (or some sort of power circuit interruption), it shuts itself off and throws a warning rather than risking improper operation which could put the driver at risk.
I would guess either a bad ground, or your alternator is hosed. On a cpu-heavy vehicle like the C6, a malfunctioning alternator (and resulting unstable electrical power) can cause all sorts of bizarre witchcraft-like errors in your car's system.
Cheers,
Kent
Last edited by Kent1999; Sep 15, 2009 at 02:35 PM.
The car still has NO POWER. When they push the start button there is a clicking sound in the one module which they replaced. I think its called the RDL, but not sure.
Apparently, when the driver door window switch (controls both windows) is unplugged... the lights come on and then EVERYTHING works fine. I saw it today and it starts up no problem. New switch should be in Monday.
I find it extremely dangerous that if there is a short in the window switch the entire car will shut off. But that is what it seems.
GM and Chevrolet will be getting a letter from me regarding the fact that there is no fail safe to prevent the car from shutting off at 70 mph if there is a short in the window switch. Not cool.
I can't answer everything, but to the above two points:
The C6 doesn't care about the fob once the car is running. After you start the car, you can toss the fob out the window and continue to drive a thousand miles --- your car won't care. The only time it checks for the fob is when you go to start or shut down the car (or open a door from outside, of course). The fob is NOT needed to keep the car running.
ABS is constantly checking itself for faults. If it had some bad data (or some sort of power circuit interruption), it shuts itself off and throws a warning rather than risking improper operation which could put the driver at risk.
I would guess either a bad ground, or your alternator is hosed. On a cpu-heavy vehicle like the C6, a malfunctioning alternator (and resulting unstable electrical power) can cause all sorts of bizarre witchcraft-like errors in your car's system.
Cheers,
Kent
I am not to sure if someone has responded, in case sorry for the dupe.
Sorry to inform you that I believe this statement to be incorrect. When the fob is out of the car you will see a No Fob Off of Run? message on the display.
The engine won't shut off, but if you do shut it off, it won't go on.
Try it, start the car, go put the fob somewhere and come back.
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Originally Posted by Cro
I am not to sure if someone has responded, in case sorry for the dupe.
Sorry to inform you that I believe this statement to be incorrect. When the fob is out of the car you will see a No Fob Off of Run? message on the display.
The engine won't shut off, but if you do shut it off, it won't go on.
Try it, start the car, go put the fob somewhere and come back.
a++ Cedric
Only if you open the door from the outside while it's running without the fob. As Kent1999 said you can throw the fob out the window while you drive, the car won't care. If you start it, open the door, get out with the fob, close the door, and walk away then yes it will look for the fob.
Of course if you shut it off and go away with the fob and come back without it the car will not start.
I am not to sure if someone has responded, in case sorry for the dupe.
Sorry to inform you that I believe this statement to be incorrect. When the fob is out of the car you will see a No Fob Off of Run? message on the display.
This message will be displayed only when you push the ignition rocker to shut down the engine.
The Corvette only looks for the fob in response to a user input (door handle pressed, ignition switch pressed, hatch button pressed, etc.) It does not ping it periodically.
Yes! This happened to me. I was told it was the alternator and battery. When I picked it up I took it to wash it. Once completed I got into the car started it but before I could put it into drive, everything went dark. I had to wait about 20 minutes when the start button light lit up and it started. Now the engine light is on . Back to shop, thank goodness I made it there. First time this happened it died twice on the way home. When I got back they pulled the ECM . I thought maybe a connection had worked loose. They ordered a replacement ECM..but before they did this the current ECM would not communicate with the engine. thank goodness it was only 85.00. They replaced it and the vehicle started without any problem, except the engine light came on. The engine light was the result on the ECM not being loaded with the correct perimeters. I have a LS3 that has different codes. Once reloaded the car ran like it was a new car. I coukd not believe the difference. Therefore I suspect it was the ECM all the time. Now ai bet your asking yourself was the alternator and battery really needed to be replaced. Yes .I had them both tested and unfortunately they needed to be replaced. Still the performance was remarkably better. Good luck.