well they are replicas so they wont cost as much..I got mine from a buddy here locally..i would search the for sale section here im sure you can find a good used set cheap...

 

If your not getting major wheelspin off the line then it's not clear that sticky tires will help.

If you are getting alot of spin they probably will help alot... If this is the case you may even pick up time with your existing tires by applying the throttle more gradually so the tires dont get overpowered.

Sounds like your car has stock LS3 type power. In my limited experience driving and watching stock automatic LS3's they don't spin much. saw one go 12.64 with a 2.05 60' at sea level this summer, the guy said he used some brake torque. The diff. between those numbers and yours is what I'd expect for 2900 feet elevation

 

Will the nitto NT05 fit? I wasent sure I was looking at the sizes they say they have a 19 inch but im not sure what the other numbers mean.

 

Bkbulldog, if you haven't seen it yet the thread "new dyno results 383/370", as well as the latest post in the 1/4 mile challenge thread, have detail on runs for a car that seems similar to yours, but it's manual, and near sea level... thought you might be interested.

 

unless your car is tuned for 100 octane, it will does not help. Higher octane does not mean more energy from the fuel, only it is more resistant to detonation. A small amount won't matter, but if you are filling your tank with 100 octane, you are wasting money to go slower.

 

I agree it's about knock not energy of the fuel, what I don't know is all the details of how and when the ecm may pull timming because it senses or fears knock... if you ran 87 octane I assume the chance of knock/interfearence from the ecm would be increased, so the question is, how much octane do you need to keep the ecm from interfearing during your run? Here in CA we can only get 91 form the pump, no 93... so to go beyond 91 you have to mix in some 100. As you say, it may not help.

 

Every foot of elevation equals about 1 DA. Thus, 2900' elevation vs
1000' elevation is about 2000 DA. And every 700-800 DA is worth
about .10. So you can see by just driving to a track at 1,000' elevation
would bring you down to 12.7. Going to sea level would give you
a 12.6.
btw-temperature has a great deal to say too on your times and
every degree of temp is worth about 70 DA. So dropping 10 degrees is
worth .10 as well.

 

That's on the right track, a small amount may avoid a little knock, but your car is designed to run on 91 and should be knock free. Of course things change over time and these cars can be prone to pull timing quickly from very sensitive senor.

I thought you were buying it by the tankfull rather than mixing a gallon with a quarter tank or similar ratio. Greatly raising the octane without changing the tune will reduce power on a car that is not knocking.

 

To the OP...Looks like traction is what's really killing your time. I'd try the following if you have already.

1) Try bringing your tire pressure down to about 26PSI once you get there. The reason why I say 26PSI is because once your tires start to cool off in the staging lanes, they'll go down about 1-2PSI (or more if tires were really hot). Once you get down to 23PSI (or less) your AH/TC become disabled and you will not be able to turn it on until you get above 24PSI. I mentioned this because it seems you're more comfortable with TC/AH on.

2) Before going to the track I always check to see if my air filter, MAF sensor and TB are clean.

3) Run with a little weight as possible.

4) Log your runs. By this I mean, before every pass write down your current setup (air temp, tire PSI, how much gas you have, how much RPM you are launching at, etc) This will help you figure out what is working and what is not.

5) Get a manual fan switch. I wired my own because i heard a lot of people having problems with the ones sold. I've had it for 5 months and no problems. I use it regularly. Use the fans to cool the car in the pits. The cooler the better.

6) ICE...On hot days or just any day, a bag of ice on the intake manifold will help you out. They're only a few bucks and they work. On a hot day at my local 1/8 track I used a bag of ice to cool the manifold down in the staging lanes. That first passed got me 93.XXMPH in the 1/8 while my other runs without ice were 91.XXMPH.

7) PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.

8) Last but not least. If your tires just aren't working then it's time for a change. I'm going to tell you that no matter what tire you get...anything is better than the stock runflats. I first went with INVOs and they stuck pretty good. I went from cutting 2.2s to 1.9-2.0. Now with my wider INVOs i'm cutting 1.8s almost all the time.

My mods are listed below to give you an idea of what i'm running. Hope this helps and good luck.

 

Why wouldn't you recommend Drag Radials..I have seen 60' times go from 2.0 to the 1.7 just with using Drag Radials....

I have a stock converter my 60' are 1.88- 1.92 consistently... I agree 100% with all your other recommendations.. I also have a fan switch to run the fan with the engine OFF to cool it off.. My ideal temp is to get to the line at 165-170 deg. (after the burn out)

Can you send me some info on how you wired your own fan just in case mine craps out...

On my 96 C4 I had to use a relay switch, wired to the fan... with my C6 I notice there is a short delay from when I turn ON the fan until it starts to run at HI speed, or when I turn it off it will run for 2-3 sec before I shuts off...

 

The reason why I didn't recommend drag radials is because in case he wants to replace his factory tires, the INVOs can be an option.

Make no mistake, If he wants to have a second set of wheels for the track I would highly recommend a set of DRs.

As for the fan switch I went based off of a writeup that was on the forum a while back. I just added an inline fuse and relay. I believe it was a 30amp relay. I wired it to a switch in my cockpit. The power came from a 12V source in the psgr side footwell.

As for the fans taking a few seconds to spool up and taking a few seconds to shut down, that's perfectly normal. Just picture a regular household fan. When you power it off it's not going to all of a sudden just stop...if it does then that's a problem. When you power it on, it's the same way. It will take 2 to 3seconds for it to get up to speed. Also depends on where you're getting your power from, how thick the power wire is, length of wire, etc.

I'll see if i can find that writeup for you. I think i might have it stored on my computer at work. PM me your email and i'll send it to you.

 

Thanks, I'd appreciate it if you could... I'm using the one I bought from (I think) LG and so far its been ok, but I have seen several posts where they crapped out..... if it should happen to mine, I'd rather do as you did, but "Quality" parts, and not have to worry about it happening to me a 2nd time...

 

It takes practice. Checkout Ranger's website also.