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I just had a set of chrome rotor hub covers installed on my '05 Z51. After the covers were installed, I noticed that there is still a 1" ring of rust that still shows. Not on the rotors themselves, but on the actual hub.
My brother had the same covers installed on his C5 and even though the rotors are smaller, the chrome covered all of the hub. Even though I ordered the covers for a Z51, I'm wondering if they sent me a set for a stock C6.
I do not have rotor hub covers because after seeing pictures of them installed they all left a ring of rust. The cover would have to cover all the area not touched by the pads which means the outer edge of the cover would have to touch the pad, which is not going to work. Probably the best way to prevent rusty rotors is to paint them, that's what I've done and they look great. Simply paint the entire rotor and the pads will scrape off the paint where they make contact leaving exactly the rest of the rotor with a coat of paint on it, and no rust.
I painted mine with Hi-temp flat black spray paint. Also took a small brush and went through the vanes too. Now I get no rust drip on my wheels, just the normal haze on the pad surface. I taped off the rotor pad face though, I let the pad "clean" the edge. But I did not want the pad to "load up" with the paint.
Here is a picture, it was "VERY" sunny and it looks gray.
Thanks guys for this info! You gave me a new idea about painting the hubs. The chrome looks good but at the same time it looks a bit weird to see chrome and polished rotors and then in between, a large rust ring! I'll give it a try!!!
If you have the correct rotor hat covers for a Z51 or F55, there is only about a 1/4" ring of the outer edge of the original gray rotor hat exposed after installation, and I never saw it rust, but the weather here is pretty nice.
If you paint that ring before finalizing the install, you will essentially have a crisp pin stripe that can match the body color, your calipers, or whatever color you like. It is very easy - just use the chrome rotor hat covers as a template and just paint around the edge. Clean up the excess with mineral spirits before it dries.
It looks really sharp when done and requires no maintenance to speak of.
I painted mine with Hi-temp flat black spray paint. Also took a small brush and went through the vanes too. Now I get no rust drip on my wheels, just the normal haze on the pad surface. I taped off the rotor pad face though, I let the pad "clean" the edge. But I did not want the pad to "load up" with the paint.
Here is a picture, it was "VERY" sunny and it looks gray.
I don't recognize the calipers. What kind are they?
Thanks... I think this clears things up! I have a Z51 and the front shows about a 1/4" ring with the back wheels showing about 3/4" just like your picture. Couple of questions...
1) Did you use any specific paint (e.g. heat resistant)?
2) I've never jacked up my car. But I assume I need to buy a set of pucks. After jacking up the car, is there a secret on where to place the jack stands while the jack is in place at the same time..?
Might be a basic question for most but I don't want to stress myself more than the fiber frame!
If you are just taking the wheels off to do the painting of the rotors, you do not need the car very high. I use hockey pucks on the jack and block the car up at the suspension points (with wood). This way when the car is sitting on the blocks it's just like sitting on the ground. And you have access to the jack points all around.
Thanks... I think this clears things up! I have a Z51 and the front shows about a 1/4" ring with the back wheels showing about 3/4" just like your picture. Couple of questions...
1) Did you use any specific paint (e.g. heat resistant)?
2) I've never jacked up my car. But I assume I need to buy a set of pucks. After jacking up the car, is there a secret on where to place the jack stands while the jack is in place at the same time..?
Might be a basic question for most but I don't want to stress myself more than the fiber frame!
Look in your manual at the preferred jacking points. Since you will be using a puck you won't be at these points but you can still place the stands there.
I had excellent results with Plastikote 500 degree engine enamel. I had terrible results with VHT paint, it blistered on the first drive after painting the rotors, requiring me to remove all the paint and re-do them with the Plastikote. They still look almost like they were painted yesterday.
"Acid Zn" is the best process for rotors as it fills pores in iron casting better.
There's no need to cover any part of the rotor and the result is a silver-like appearence.
You will for sure find a company close to you in the yellow pages.
They are an upgraded rear kit for the Z51 (go cart) rear's. Sold by Prostart Vette Components in NJ, work and look great!
Here is a picture on my car;
It is an awesome upgrade for anyone who hates the look of the rear ones, and I do the powdercoating for Prostart, so you can also have the fronts color matched, on an exchange if you do the upgrade. Check them out!!!!!!!