C6 clutch change.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: twin falls id
St. Jude Donor '10
C6 clutch change.
This winter I want to replace my 05 Z51 clutch. I have never removed a torque tube. I am excited about finding this forum and joined just yesterday. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Malaysia Air Flight 370
It's labor intensive, but not extremely difficult or complicated. Here's a general version:
1. Remove center console and bezel, remove shifter assembly, disconnect shift linkage from tranny (little collar with a torx bolt)
2. Get car in the air, pull entire exhaust system down stream of headers
3. Pull tunnel plate (big aluminum plate, lotta bolts)
4. Pull all wiring/plugs from the transmission, differential, ABS sensors, etc., tie all harnesses up and out of the way of the torque tube / tranny / diff / suspension cradle
5. Pull brake calipers, zip tie up out of the way to avoid having them stretching the lines when your rear suspension cradle comes down and away from the chassis
6. Begin loosening all bolts around bellhousing / torque tube, as well as the main 4 that hold the rear suspension cradle to the car (the cradle holds the differential, which is bolted to the tranny, which is bolted to the torque tube (torque tube is "female", and accepts "male" splined input shaft from tranny)
7. Disconnect upper rear a-arms from chassis, as well as shocks, and any clips, ABS lines, etc that may be stressed as the cradle is lowered away.
8. With rear cradle unbolted from car, and supported by proper jacks, the drivetrain can slowly pivot downward and be pulled incrementally backwards to separate the torque tube from the car. This is assuming you still have the tube/tranny/diff/cradle all bolted as one unit.
My advice for pulling the drivetrain (what worked best for me) was not having the car on a full lift, but low to the ground on jacks, so that I could use multiple, wheeled floor jacks to slide the drivetrain backward, left/right, etc, to minimize binding or leverage.
Remember that you can only safely lower the drivetrain to a particular degree before the intake manifold makes contact with the cowl. There is a sticker on your torque tube indicating this angle. Be weary of that.
Now that the drivetrain is out of the way, swap your clutch. Also, if you're going to upgrade the diff/tranny/suspension, or are even thinking about it, there is no better time than now. At the very least, use this opportunity to swap all your fluids. An MGW shifter or new '08+ center console, etc., are all things that would be best added now than later as well, if you're considering them.
Hope that helps some.... and don't quote this as fully comprehensive. This is just me going from memory from about a month ago after destroying my transmission.
1. Remove center console and bezel, remove shifter assembly, disconnect shift linkage from tranny (little collar with a torx bolt)
2. Get car in the air, pull entire exhaust system down stream of headers
3. Pull tunnel plate (big aluminum plate, lotta bolts)
4. Pull all wiring/plugs from the transmission, differential, ABS sensors, etc., tie all harnesses up and out of the way of the torque tube / tranny / diff / suspension cradle
5. Pull brake calipers, zip tie up out of the way to avoid having them stretching the lines when your rear suspension cradle comes down and away from the chassis
6. Begin loosening all bolts around bellhousing / torque tube, as well as the main 4 that hold the rear suspension cradle to the car (the cradle holds the differential, which is bolted to the tranny, which is bolted to the torque tube (torque tube is "female", and accepts "male" splined input shaft from tranny)
7. Disconnect upper rear a-arms from chassis, as well as shocks, and any clips, ABS lines, etc that may be stressed as the cradle is lowered away.
8. With rear cradle unbolted from car, and supported by proper jacks, the drivetrain can slowly pivot downward and be pulled incrementally backwards to separate the torque tube from the car. This is assuming you still have the tube/tranny/diff/cradle all bolted as one unit.
My advice for pulling the drivetrain (what worked best for me) was not having the car on a full lift, but low to the ground on jacks, so that I could use multiple, wheeled floor jacks to slide the drivetrain backward, left/right, etc, to minimize binding or leverage.
Remember that you can only safely lower the drivetrain to a particular degree before the intake manifold makes contact with the cowl. There is a sticker on your torque tube indicating this angle. Be weary of that.
Now that the drivetrain is out of the way, swap your clutch. Also, if you're going to upgrade the diff/tranny/suspension, or are even thinking about it, there is no better time than now. At the very least, use this opportunity to swap all your fluids. An MGW shifter or new '08+ center console, etc., are all things that would be best added now than later as well, if you're considering them.
Hope that helps some.... and don't quote this as fully comprehensive. This is just me going from memory from about a month ago after destroying my transmission.
