I've been set on getting an ACT twin disk for some time and it's going to be a Christmas present for me. Trouble is I can't decide between the T1S and T2S. They both use the same organic disks with high copper content, the only difference is the clamping force of the pressure plate. The T1S supports 850# of torque, the T2S supports 950#. After the clutch I plan on a meth kit which will put me around 725 crank torque: 125# under the max rated of the T1S, so it should be fine, but I'm torn as to whether to go to the T2S "just in case", but I don't want my leg to fall off either.

I'd like to hear from anyone with the T1S or T2S regarding drivability and power level.

I'm also putting in a new slave and remote bleeder. So if anyone knows the best place to get those I'm all ears. The remote bleeders range from $30 to $130.... WTF

 

Why not the T1GS then?

 

I hadn't heard of that. Just the TxS, TxR and TxSR's. S meaning it's an organic disk with high copper content, R meaning it's a puck style disk and SR meaning one of each.

 

Bump. Interested in same clutch

 

Bump again. Need some more convincing ACt is the way

 

I'm convinced, I just want some guidance as to whether to go with the stiffer pressure plate (T2S).

 

Also one of my concerns.

 

As far as remote bleeders go... I got mine from Vengance for $50. The stainless line was coated and everything fit well with enough line to get it out of the way.

 

I will have some answers tommorow on this and also I found a place with outstanding pricing..........more to come tommorow.

I am investigating the T2s (950) versus the T3s (1125)

 

FYI

T1S is only 5 percent more than stock

T2S is only 15 percent more pedal pressure than stock which is almost unoticeable
T3S ia 37 percent more than stock

Downfall is right now ACT is waiting for parts to build the Z06 clutches. Should be about 3 weeks.

5 Liter sent you an email

 

Well Josh and I should be able to provide some good feedback after the first of the year or so. I got a T1S and he got a T2S. ACT is backordered on parts for the twins for a bout three weeks but mine is an xmas gift anyhow. Great deal on them both too!

 

You got it Bill!

 

Ok cool. Mine are on backorder too. I meant the SR one which is rated over 900ft/lb in the level 1 clutch.
But the clamping of the level 2 is 54% over stock so I guess if pedal pressure is only 15% over stock then they must have a much better leverage to work with.

 

Tx is the pressure plate designation. Pedal effort for the T1 is 5% over stock, T2 is 15%, T3 is 37%. The S, R, or SR is the disk materials. S is the street disks; Organic with high copper content. R is the race disks; puck style. SR is one of each disk.

 

Apprently they are shipping from the 21st Dec.

 

so who's got the best price on these

 

So I installed the ACT Twin T1S two weekends ago along with a new slave and RPM remote bleeder and new pilot bearing. I only have ~50 miles on it so far but I LOVE this thing! It is butter smooth and Honda Civic light. It's lighter than my stock pedal for sure and at least as smooth engaging. There is no on-off that is typically thought of with a twin disk. There is no rattling with the clutch in due to the strapped floater plate.

I did have a bit of trouble installing it because while the plastic alignment tool would go through both disks, the actual input shaft would get hung up going into the second disk. There was no way I was going to remove the bell housing again to loosen the pressure plate bolts so I ended up drilling a 1.5" hole in the bell housing to gain access to the pressure plate bolts and loosened them. Then I was able to stab the tranny and re-tighten the pressure plate bolts. Some will about putting a hole in the bell housing but I don't feel like it weakened it enough to matter. I think this type of issue could pop up in any twin disk install. A shop may use an old input shaft instead of the plastic tool.

Then when I had it all in and was bleeding it there was brake fluid all over the floor so out came the drivetrain again... Once the two pieces of the RPM bleeder are assembled it looks like it could be a swivel like the slave line is but it's actually two connections which both need to be tight.

In any case I got it in and could not be happier. In fact, knowing how light the pedal is I would have opted for the T2S just for a little extra power holding insurance.