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I have my 2 step all hooked up but the distance from when the Clutch position switch release and when the clutch actualy begins to engage is about 2 inches . It doesn't work well that way, trust me on this one...
I was going to put a block on the back of the pedal to take up the 2 inches of distance between the swtich release and clutch engagement, but it seems to me, that if like if I was shifting hard and really banging through the gears, it might break the switch from pounding on it so hard. When you normally shift, you never have to put it all the way to the floor so it isn't a problem.
Any ideas or pictures of your setup or personal experience?
I have my 2 step all hooked up but the distance from when the Clutch position switch release and when the clutch actualy begins to engage is about 2 inches . It doesn't work well that way, trust me on this one...:smash
I was going to put a block on the back of the pedal to take up the 2 inches of distance between the swtich release and clutch engagement, but it seems to me, that if like if I was shifting hard and really banging through the gears, it might break the switch from pounding on it so hard. When you normally shift, you never have to put it all the way to the floor so it isn't a problem.
Any ideas or pictures of your setup or personal experience?
bigears
Takes about an inch off the leg stretch, and the clutch engages soon off the floorboard. After 5 years of daily driving my floorboard clutch switch has a minor ding in it.
there are 2 switches, one at the top and one at the bottom< i used the cruse control switch.
Now that's interesting, so you didn't use the floor board clutch position switch at all? I didn't even know there was a top switch. Did you have to modify the switch location or anything?
Takes about an inch off the leg stretch, and the clutch engages soon off the floorboard. After 5 years of daily driving my floorboard clutch switch has a minor ding in it.
Thats similar to the way I was looking at doing it, but how much throw do you have between when the clutch position sensor releasing and the clutch starting to engage?
Thats a neat bracket... i couldn't tell by the picture what you used to mount it, it almost looked like epoxy.
I have not installed on on my vette yet............but on an f-body (same drive train, other than fly by wire)
there was a cruse control switch at the top of the travel and a starter switch at the bottom
so AS SOON as you touched the cltuch cruse would dis-ingauge.
and you had to have the pedal ALL THE way to the floor to start the car. I tapped into the switch wire close tot he computerbecasue ti was unde the hood. and was told that was the best place and what color and pin number it was.
Alos a good thing about this, when staging for a race, you can easy up to the line with out the 2 step turning off cause you never let the clutch all the way out to barley move.
I have not installed on on my vette yet............but on an f-body (same drive train, other than fly by wire)
there was a cruse control switch at the top of the travel and a starter switch at the bottom
so AS SOON as you touched the cltuch cruse would dis-ingauge.
and you had to have the pedal ALL THE way to the floor to start the car. I tapped into the switch wire close tot he computerbecasue ti was unde the hood. and was told that was the best place and what color and pin number it was.
Alos a good thing about this, when staging for a race, you can easy up to the line with out the 2 step turning off cause you never let the clutch all the way out to barley move.
So your 2 step doesn't disengage until the clutch is all the way out? Doesn't it bog? I guess maybe it takes up the initial bite and then applies full power. I guess you could almost drop the clutch since there is only the rotating mass trying to move the car initially... What RPM do you set it at with this approach? Do you have a video of it in action?
Thats similar to the way I was looking at doing it, but how much throw do you have between when the clutch position sensor releasing and the clutch starting to engage?
Thats a neat bracket... i couldn't tell by the picture what you used to mount it, it almost looked like epoxy.
I haven't measured it, but quite soon.
That gizmo is a 50 cent window track lock. It mounts backwards on the little nubbin on the clutch arm, and it is the head of the bolt that touches the clutch floorboard switch. There is no adhesive, as the bolt is tightened onto that nubbin. I have fine tuned the set up with 2 pennies stuck in right behind the nubbin, and they provide just a bit less throw and earlier engagement.
I haven't measured it, but quite soon.
That gizmo is a 50 cent window track lock. It mounts backwards on the little nubbin on the clutch arm, and it is the head of the bolt that touches the clutch floorboard switch. There is no adhesive, as the bolt is tightened onto that nubbin. I have fine tuned the set up with 2 pennies stuck in right behind the nubbin, and they provide just a bit less throw and earlier engagement.
That's a pretty easy and cool way to do it... Thanks for the insight. Have any idea where to resource the bracket from? I know what it is but who would carry them?
That's a pretty easy and cool way to do it... Thanks for the insight. Have any idea where to resource the bracket from? I know what it is but who would carry them?
What kind of 60' are you seeing?
TruValue hardware store as I recall.
I don't race or track the car.
Yes when using the 2 step I was side stepping the clutch.
the way a 2 step works, it takes away spark from different cylenders while allowing you to hold at a certain RPM, while WOT on the throttle body, and injetors (why you are not supposed to have cats on a car with one). it sure hits everything ALOT harder
so in that set up at the track on slicks, it was set to 6000 rpms (rev limiter was at 6700). as you come off the cltuch it ingages and the 2 step disengauged all in the time it takes for the pedal to come up. (if what you mean is the clutch grabs before it hits the top switch to trun off the 2 step, then yes you are correct, but that is not going to matter!) it all happens so fast and it may have helped the clutch life in the car. but no the car did not bog at that point, it did how ever spon the slicks on the wheels.
Yes when using the 2 step I was side stepping the clutch.
the way a 2 step works, it takes away spark from different cylenders while allowing you to hold at a certain RPM, while WOT on the throttle body, and injetors (why you are not supposed to have cats on a car with one). it sure hits everything ALOT harder
so in that set up at the track on slicks, it was set to 6000 rpms (rev limiter was at 6700). as you come off the cltuch it ingages and the 2 step disengauged all in the time it takes for the pedal to come up. (if what you mean is the clutch grabs before it hits the top switch to trun off the 2 step, then yes you are correct, but that is not going to matter!) it all happens so fast and it may have helped the clutch life in the car. but no the car did not bog at that point, it did how ever spon the slicks on the wheels.
So what kind of 60's were you netting? Idealy I would like to be able to modulate the clutch a little to lessen the shock.
I might try your method but I'm still a little weary off it due to using drag radials which wont give as much as the slicks in the sidewalls.
i was cutting 1.60 60" because i was spinning the wheels in the tires. need screws bad. On the vette i would try and come off the clutch in a fast but not a dump matter. its only need a little help and you dont want to smoke the clutch to bad haha