Originally Posted by SUB VETTE

With the OEM lines overtorqued, how hard is it to remove them, and what are the odds that the fittings will be damaged. I'd hate to get into the middle of this job and find that (a) I can't break the fitting loose; or (b) Once loose I find that I've got a cut and flare job on my hands to replace a damaged fitting.

Originally Posted by mittens

there was a thread on here at one point saying the stock lines are braded something and rubber out side, so the factory ones are not streatching......

Originally Posted by Randy@DRM

Most hydraulic "rubber" hoses have some reinforcement so they are rated for the pressure they are being used for. There is more flex, you can almost watch it.

Randy

Originally Posted by Randy@DRM

Most hydraulic "rubber" hoses have some reinforcement so they are rated for the pressure they are being used for. There is more flex, you can almost watch it.

Randy

Originally Posted by Chris_B

Very true. OE rubber lines usually use nylon or fiberglass, with some even using a little stainless steel. However, they are a long way from the stiffness of a full stainless steel overbraid. Not to mention the water vapor intrusion that rubber allows over time that Teflon does not.

Chris

Originally Posted by Chris_B

This needs to be clarified. The only problems I've seen with Corvette fitments has been the same for the full-size GM SUV's. According to GM production engineers, a few years back GM started to over-tighten the chassis-side fittings due to supplier issues on the SUV's. They had a few cars dripping brake fluid on the showroom floor, which was obviously unacceptable. After going around and around with their foreign supplier, they found the best sure-proof solution was to just wrench them down a bit more past the specified torque value.

This "advanced production technique" was carried over to the Corvette production line as well. The problem is that the threads on the hard line flare fitting are often damaged and the bulb flare itself is also deformed. While the original lines will go back on (they are naturally distorted in a matching fashion), new lines can be difficult if they are made to tight tolerances -- as Goodridge lines are. That said, even a brand new rubber line from the factory is nearly impossible to thread on without chasing the chassis fitting threads with a die and filing down the portion just below the threads as it has become oversize due to bulging. In a rare case or two, some have had to cut the brake line tube, put on a new flare fitting and re-flare the tube. This situation was not caused by Goodridge. The hose ends are not "soft" at all and they are not sloppy enough to go over the deformed chassis fittings if they happen to be damaged enough.

Goodridge is a top-notch global brake line supplier. Their lines comply to the most strict German TÜV standards as well as US DOT FMVSS 106. They have a TON of OE accounts in the automotive, marine and snow machine industries. They also supply a HUGE number of F1, F3, NASCAR, WRC, Touring Cars, World Challenge, etc., etc., all over the globe. They are included in all AP Racing and Brembo brake upgrade systems. And, they are guaranteed for life.

Side note: The U.S. DOT does not "approve" brake lines. They set the standards that manufacturers must comply to or face fines/imprisonment. Brake line manufacturers must do their own testing. This data must be solid enough to stand up in court, should the need ever arise. When considering lower cost lines, one might wish to request certified data from an independent lab from the pressure, flex and whip tests. Let the buyer beware.

Chris

Originally Posted by Mike Yeager@Eastcoast Performance

The Corvette Rubber brake lines DO NOT have any stainless braid in them, they use a little nylon to keep it from blowing apart...
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Originally Posted by HC Mechanic

I know Goodridge makes really nice lines, I have used them on a lot of the race bikes I've built. I'm sure the Stop Tech's are good as well