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Cam install started today...couple questions

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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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St. Jude Donor '10
Default Cam install started today...couple questions

Still waiting for my cam to arrive but started the teardown today. I got the radiator/fan out, waterpump off, and swapped all of the valvesprings. Tomorrow I plan on tackling the steering rack, crank pulley, and timing cover.

I know the A/C condensor needs to be moved to get the cam out/in...do I need to unbolt the A/C pump? Doesn't seem like there is a lot of play in the lines right now.

I have a power steering cooler. Is it recommended to disconnect the factory clamps/lines to remove the cooler?

Any tips on removing the steering rack?
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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I left the compressor untouched. I also just moved the condensor up a little when I was sliding the cam in, otherwise I left it right where it was.

As for the rack, just take a few pics and go slow, very straight forward. Just keep track of the 2 lines and have patience when you reassemble it.

For the cooler, I just unbolted it from the cradle and moved it, it will get bent a little (fins) but no big deal. Also, you will have to move the power steering pump and my trick is unbolt it and when it's loose I cut (with a Dremel) the top of the bolt holes on the pump. This way it siply slids off when you want it to. I'll see if I have a pic, it makes more sense.

Forget the pwr steering part, that was when I pulled the heads. Here are a few pics, maybe they will help.

Good luck.



Last edited by JayplaySS2; Jan 1, 2010 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 07:09 PM
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I have installed many cams in C5 & C6 cars. I owned my own shop for 42 years. Make sure you route the power steering lines the way they come off when you reinstall the rack. Take the lines out of the rack before removing it. A little extra time here will make your job finish a lot better. One of the lines has to go behind a brake line for clearance. Take pictures if you are not sure. Also be sure to disconnect the wire from the rack at the connector and do not break the connector clip. Remove the rack, very easy. Disconnect the tie rod ends at the wheels, after disconnecting the splines on the rack slide to the pass side and lower it out of the front center opening under the car. This will making access at the pulley and timing cover easier and lower your chances of having any leaks when reinstalling the cover. Take the time to drain the power steering pump, cooler and remove them the way they are supposed to come off, VERY EASY to do. Short cuts will cost you in the long run. The A/C condenser can be turned over to the pass side and tied to a hook on the ceiling with a length of small rope, you then raise or lower it as you jack the car up or down. It gives you all the clearance in the world. PM me with your e-mail and I will send you some pictures of what I did with my A/C parts.
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 08:10 PM
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Great job so far... Is that hay on your condensor? bottom feeders they are...
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tomc8at
Great job so far... Is that hay on your condensor? bottom feeders they are...
that's not mine, but here are a few pics......you can see Spin's TB too




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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by turboffr
Still waiting for my cam to arrive but started the teardown today. I got the radiator/fan out, waterpump off, and swapped all of the valvesprings. Tomorrow I plan on tackling the steering rack, crank pulley, and timing cover.

I know the A/C condensor needs to be moved to get the cam out/in...do I need to unbolt the A/C pump? Doesn't seem like there is a lot of play in the lines right now.

I have a power steering cooler. Is it recommended to disconnect the factory clamps/lines to remove the cooler?

Any tips on removing the steering rack?
How hard was it to change the valvesprings? What tool did you use..I am doin mine very soon..Thanks..
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by silvervette05
How hard was it to change the valvesprings? What tool did you use..I am doin mine very soon..Thanks..
not hard at all. I used an my air compressor and a fitting in the sparkplug hole to keep the valves up. I bought this tool from a guy on LS1Tech.com. Inexpensive and works perfect. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/tools-...available.html
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by silvervette05
How hard was it to change the valvesprings? What tool did you use..I am doin mine very soon..Thanks..

I do it the easy way, put the pistons at TDC and let the piston hold the valve up. Quick and easy. Tim's spring tool is perfect. Comp makes one that does 2 springs at a time but it's $$.
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