Ok, let me tell you the story! I bought a 2006 Corvette Coup, auto six speed with the paddle shift. Nave unit, onstar etc. So I've had the car a little over 2 weeks. Was perfectly fine when I bought it then a few days later it starts going crazy. The dash stated saying the following:

Serive Engine Soon
Service acitive handling system
Service Fuel System
Low Fuel (had a full tank)
Service Traction Control

So I would turn it off and it'd come back on then go away. I take it to the local GM dealership,(it went into limp mode I guess, cuz it would only stay in second gear, I'm guessing, and wouldnt change gears) who were really nice people. I have a 3 year extended bumper to bumper warranty. They hook it up to the computer and check it. They tell me that they found 48 "historical codes". They said that they couldnt find any "current codes". So they cleared them and told me to drive around in the area of the dealership to see if they come back on so I could whip in there and they check it immediately. Well of course the car worked flawless. This was yesterday. So I wake up today to go out and see if its gonna throw a code. Sure enough it did, did all of the above things on the dash display. Went into limp mode again. Meant to add, this morning when I tried to crank it, you push the button and everything goes off, then it'll pop right back on. On these mornings the nav unit or in the area of the nav unit, whether behind it or whatever will make this wear noise like the computer of something is funny.

So I take it to autozone to see if they could get a current code, they found the following:

P0700 Transcontrol system malfunction
U0073 Control Module

Now even the guy at autozone said that its nothing serious but that its just sensors not reading back to the computer.

Does the historical codes not show what the codes were?
Checking recent work done that was included in the papers showed they had the steering wheel clip installed on the telescopic steering wheel. there were 2 other times codes occured, but the dealership fixed those.

Now, I have wanted a corvette my entire life and it has been my dream car, now that I have it, all these codes are making me furious to the point that I am tempted to sell it, because these malfunctions are really making me lose alot of interest in this car Fast.

Is this somethign that I get to look forward to? If so it'll be gone next week..adn I havent even bought the tag for it yet.

I'm know I'm venting to you guys but its driving me insane because I Really want to enjoy this car but I cant in fear of getting stranded.

ONE MORE THING, its NOT the batter, I bought a new optima on Wednesday. SO please, I'm asking for all of your help, because I really really love this car but don't want to keep going through this.

please help from a first time corvette owner!

 

I replaced the battery on Wed with an Optima and it showed back up the very next day.

 

Well.....I was going to say battery, until I got to the end of your post and saw you just installed a new one.

I think the P0700 is a Transmission Control Module for your automatic transmission.

However, the U0073 is for "Network: Control Module Communication Bus Off", and can refer to any computer in the car (BCM, EBCM, PCM, HVAC, Radio, RCDLR, TCM, VCIM, etc., etc., etc.)

So....It may be due to a problem with the TCM, or any other computer module in the car.

Butt......if the battery is not a problem, I would start out by checking to make sure everything is grounded properly. Make sure the battery cables are connected, battery grounded securely, cables to the starter and alternator are secured, and then any other ground you can find - make sure it's tight. With your TCM code, I'd definitely check to make sure all wires to/from the transmission are connected securely.

A loose ground can often cause intermittent problems such as you're experiencing.

Bob

 

vette, dont give up yet.

I would still try another battery. Often "new" batteries are not in good order.

Also, I would then ask the dealer to reflash your tcm, bcm and ecm. Cant hurt. Takes little time. If it still happens:

then I would go with a a new ecm and or bcm.
These cars go crazy when the battery is not in good order so you still might have a bad battery.

If you are in Nor Calif I have an extra battery that has been maintained on a charger that you are welcome to try. Other than the battery, you could have a bad computer--that simple. Is there any history of the computers being changed? This car could have been massaged by tuners in the past that messed up the computers. Just a thought.

Also the car has several ground connections. They should be checked also. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and making good contact.

Let us know

 

The reason why the dealership cleared your historical codes is because they don't know which ones are currently causing the problems.

I'd take it back to the dealership and let them handle it, especially if it's under warranty. I'm thinking it's a bad connection somewhere on one of the modules. Maybe the BCM (body control module) or the PCM.

Keep us posted.

 

I'm going to take it back on Monday and I really appereciate all of your encouragement. I LOVE my car, but can't stand this stuff. The battery connections are fine. Is there some post on here (I've seached) that might would have pictures showing the areas of grounding to check? also, they erased all codes at the dealership and it worked Flawlessly. But when I went to crank it this morning, back they came.

I'm trying very hard to stay positive, guess I'm just dissapointed at not being able to enjoy it they way I want to.

I really appreciate the battery offer KnKali, but I'm all the way over in Bama. I'm going to go out and check the grouns that I can find now. If you have any other things I might could do, please let me know. Thanks in advance!

 

It sounds to me like you have a CAN-Bus communication issue. This can be caused by many different things, such as a simple voltage supply issue, bad ground or internal failure of one of the control modules (ECM, TCM, etc.). Modern cars are very sensitive to system voltage. Too much or too little will cause the control modules (computers) to go nuts.

I am a Technician, but I do not work on GM products for a living. Most of the Bus related issues I deal with are caused by a defective control module or voltage supply. One malfunctioning control module on a bus system can take down the entire bus and result in the multiple warning lights you are seeing. An intermittent Bus issue like this can be hard to track down. That is why the dealership cleared the codes. They wanted to see what was coming back first to try and narrow down the cause of the issue.

This problem started happening before you put the new battery in or after? If a problem occurs after a recent repair has been done, I always look first at what was done to the car. Something could have been knocked loose, pinched, etc. I also always look for signs of accident damage/collision repair. I cannot tell you how many body shop nightmares I have seen over the years.

I would recommend taking the advise of the Autozone guy with a grain of salt. Go back to the dealership and let them fix it. You have a warranty, and whatever is causing the problem is likely covered. I am sure there is just one bad part causing all these issues. Good luck and let me know if I can help.

Andy

 

Back in the old days it was just a dirty or loose ground cable on the battery, I would start there and then check all the grounds you can see or find.

If you have a service manual or someone can tell you where the ground points are on the c-6 check them out, sorry I don't have a c-6 service manual at this time.

 

The BCM is the gateway unit between the two data busses so that being faulty could generate a ton of weirdness.

Z//

 

check and cleaned grounds behind both headlights, cleaned ground below battery box adn checked all fuses under the hood, and in the passenger floorboard. Cranked it back up and the check engine like symbol has gone off.

Went for a ride down the road and no service codes. However, I went to put it in competitive drive mode adn it won't do it. It'll only cycle between traction control on and off, regardless if I hold it down for the 5 or 10 second interval etc. So that means that something is still wrong with it. Checked the batter connection, they were good, but cleaned them again to be safe.

Checked the alternator and starter connections and those were good.

 

also, I don't have a lift to check the transmission connections, I was just trying to do the things that I am capable of doing. But you guys are awesome. Best forum yet!

 

Hopefully just tightening some ground connections may have fixed things.


The issue with not being able to put it into Comp mode or turn AH off completely is often due to a problem with the tire pressure sensors.

What does your DIC say about tire pressures? Is it "xx psi" or is it displaying actual pressures, such as "31 psi"?

Have you had a DIC message that says "Service Tire Monitor"?

The tire pressure sensors must be properly programmed into the TPMS computer in the car (which is actually part of the RCDLR module).

You say you replaced the battery. Disconnecting the battery will drop the last known pressures out of the TPMS, but shortly after you start driving they should update to indicate correct pressures in the DIC.

You may just simply need to have a relearn procedure done to properly register the unique ID# of each sensor into the TPMS computer in the car to get the AH/TC button to work correctly.

Bob

 

I had similar codes and symptoms,

Remove or disconnect or re-install to stock anything aftermarket that is electrical.

Aftermarket radio
Aftermarket accessories with switches

 

Vette2441,
The autozone store scanner can only read powertrain codes which are common among all cars. Your problems are in the GM enhanced area and their scanner can't even see them. Same thing with all modern cars. It is a waste of your time to go to the store if the CEL isn't on.

C6s prevent competition mode from being engaged if the TPMS system isn't working properly. As one of the posters above said check your tire pressure readings for xxx's although it seems there would have been a tpms service message if there were xxx's. Did you get a low or high tire pressure warning? They shouldn't have gotten screwed up by the battery problem but they may have. A tire shop can reprogram them if you think they aren't registered correctly with the car. Usually these things would generate a Service Message on the DIC so if you haven't seen one then it is unlikely they are the source of the problem but checking them is cheap and fast.

By the way is the MIL still lit on the instrument panel?

Bill

 

if you have an ipod interface, disconnect it

 

yeah or check the wiring if it is aftermarket(not sure on your year if OEM or not)

Check the tire pressures on the DIC!

 

one more thing--check to see if your memory seat function works if you have it. If it doesnt it could be narrowed down to the BCM

 

You guys amaze me with all this knowledge! Let me catch you up to this point in time whats happening. I drove it around nearly all after noon and not a single light came on. left it off for about and hour, they cranked it up and went to get some food in it, all those codes came on. When they went back out to crank it up and come home none ever came on.

I just now got back from about a 2 hour or more ride to see what it would do, not a single light ever came on but still no comp mode. Going through the set up to look at the tire pressure it shows my left rear tire psi is a "0". It did this a while back too, but then automatically reset itself and still shot out all those warning codes. But as of right now it is on 0. But during the whole 2 hours, it didnt show ANY symptom minus the no Comp mode. But I am fairly certain that in the morning when I get in it to leave, it won't start.

 

memory seats work fine.

 

Also, this car is completely in stock form the way it would be if you bought it from the dealership. No aftermarket stereo or mods of any kind to the motor. Its very strange.