how accurate is dynolicious?
2009 LS3 M6 NPP Z51 LT1 coupe w/ 200lbs driver and 418whp/404wtq (SAE)
1st:
0-10 - .74
0-20 - 1.41
0-30 - 2.04
0-40 - 2.61
0-50 - 3.50
0-60 - 4.24
0-70 - 5.05
0-80 - 6.37
0-90 - 7.52
0-100 - 8.86
60' - 2.23
330' - 5.45
1/8 - 8.11 @ 91.2 mph
1000' - 10.35 @ 116.1
1/4 - 12.23 @ 129.5 mph
2nd:
(conditions where I turned around and went back to orginal starting point sucked... major spin/hop)
60' - 2.53
1/8 - 8.65 @ 89.5
1/4 - 12.83 @ 122.8
3rd:
(same starting location as 1st run)
0-10 - .83
0-20 - 1.51
0-30 - 2.09
0-40 - 2.69
0-50 - 3.39
0-60 - 4.47
0-70 - 5.30
0-80 - 6.49
0-90 - 7.62
0-100 - 8.97
60' - 2.19
330' - 5.46
1/8 - 8.12 @ 93.8 mph
1000' - 10.38 @ 101.8 mph
1/4 - 12.24 @ 129.4 mph
Also, the MPH at the 1000' mark on the 3rd run was way off.
I'd guess I'm ~12.20 @ ~122mph?
That makes the most sense.

I bet w/ a 2.00 60' I'd be right on the verge of an 11 and still over 120mph.
The 60' was about .3 off (slower); the 1/8 and 1/4 mile times were off by a few hundredths, and the 1/8 and 1/4 mile speeds were dead on. I can't find my timeslip for the run that I matched against dynolicous, but you can compare it to my other runs from that evening. (see comparison below)
I am sure the horsepower would be accurate if I would have entered the correct vehicle weight including driver and gas. My car put down 365 (stock LS2 with a tune) on the dyno a few days before.
Your times seem a little fast and your speed is definitely off. This may have something to do with the way it was mounted. You also have to re-calibrate it once on location because the calibration is temperature dependent.
Last edited by tarik916; Mar 25, 2010 at 11:56 PM. Reason: motor info
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I have owned all past models of the g-tech and none were as accurate as Dynolicious. I took them to the track years ago and they were +-3mph and +-0.5 sec. Dynolicious was used for 3 runs in the same night and the times were only slightly off (hundredths) while the MPH was exact.
Check out this comparison test by Garage419: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-DFbJQbeSY
This is how it was mounted during my runs:
setting it in the console, with the console open, and finally on the passengers seat. I also ran a full calibration.
Not one reading was even close. The closest to reality was a 0-100 run, that was labeled 0-78 in 7.7 seconds. My GPS and speedometer, agree to the exact mile per hour.. so, I have no doubts about my actual speed.
The farthest from reality was a 0-90 that thought my top speed was 30mph.
It decided based upon my curb weight, that I had 111 HP. (A modified LS1,
that *started* at 350HP, and that was about 40 HP ago...)
For an iPhone 4, I would declare this a waste of money. Perhaps it works
better on some other iPhone, or something.
On a related note, the Bosch application crashed while I was selecting a picture. Now, whenever I activate it, it goes to the picture selection screen, and locks up.
Conclusion ? If you have an iPhone 4, just buy a G-tech, Don't waste your money. And just between you and me, I have doubts the "sucking wind" is limited to the iPhone 4, but I can only speak from my experience.
This app is a real "buyer beware".
.


Your numbers are way off for a basically stock LS3 C6
RWHP for an LS3 with M6 transmission should be about 380-385 RWHP
1/4 mile trap speed closer to about 115 mph















