turbotuner20v

I put dynolicious on my ipod touch and secured it in my cup holder with some tape and made a few 1/4 mile runs.

2009 LS3 M6 NPP Z51 LT1 coupe w/ 200lbs driver and 418whp/404wtq (SAE)

1st:

0-10 - .74
0-20 - 1.41
0-30 - 2.04
0-40 - 2.61
0-50 - 3.50
0-60 - 4.24
0-70 - 5.05
0-80 - 6.37
0-90 - 7.52
0-100 - 8.86

60' - 2.23
330' - 5.45
1/8 - 8.11 @ 91.2 mph
1000' - 10.35 @ 116.1
1/4 - 12.23 @ 129.5 mph


2nd:
(conditions where I turned around and went back to orginal starting point sucked... major spin/hop)

60' - 2.53
1/8 - 8.65 @ 89.5
1/4 - 12.83 @ 122.8


3rd:
(same starting location as 1st run)

0-10 - .83
0-20 - 1.51
0-30 - 2.09
0-40 - 2.69
0-50 - 3.39
0-60 - 4.47
0-70 - 5.30
0-80 - 6.49
0-90 - 7.62
0-100 - 8.97

60' - 2.19
330' - 5.46
1/8 - 8.12 @ 93.8 mph
1000' - 10.38 @ 101.8 mph
1/4 - 12.24 @ 129.4 mph

turbotuner20v

Just looked at more data, and it says my top speed on the 1st and 3rd runs was ~122mph...

Also, the MPH at the 1000' mark on the 3rd run was way off.

I'd guess I'm ~12.20 @ ~122mph?

That makes the most sense.

glennhl

With a 12.20, then a 118 would be more reasonable. Or, if you can really run 122, then an 11.80 is more appropriate.

turbotuner20v

yea, the 60' and 0-60 numbers weren't too hot. My 'closed course' indicator turned green faster than I thought, so I had to hustle

I bet w/ a 2.00 60' I'd be right on the verge of an 11 and still over 120mph.

tarik916

I went to the track last September just to put dynolicious to the test. The software is on my iphone and I had it mounted to my windshield with a suction cup cradle.

The 60' was about .3 off (slower); the 1/8 and 1/4 mile times were off by a few hundredths, and the 1/8 and 1/4 mile speeds were dead on. I can't find my timeslip for the run that I matched against dynolicous, but you can compare it to my other runs from that evening. (see comparison below)

I am sure the horsepower would be accurate if I would have entered the correct vehicle weight including driver and gas. My car put down 365 (stock LS2 with a tune) on the dyno a few days before.

Your times seem a little fast and your speed is definitely off. This may have something to do with the way it was mounted. You also have to re-calibrate it once on location because the calibration is temperature dependent.

glennhl

Only one way to know. Head to the closest 1/4 mile track and have fun!

turbotuner20v

yup, hopefully things open up soon in the midwest... the runflats didn't do all that bad on an unprepped street, but hopefully Nitto comes out w/ a narrower NT05-r for base cars by then too.

mfquinn

What percentage drivetrain loss are you all using when you set up your vehicle?

turbotuner20v

I just left it "0" to give WHP to compare to my dyno, but i'm not sure how well the HP measure works

tarik916

I set 14% loss

bps999

I have a g-tech and it's pretty inaccurate. I expect the iphone is no better. Also any makeshift attachment is gonna make it worse. If it tips or shakes at all it records all kinds of extraneous g-forces. From the g-force history it integrates to get speed vs. time, then integrates again to get the inferred distance covered based on the speed plot. So, the G-forces are inaccurate cause it's not an exact insturment and it's shaking anyway... this leads to bigger errors in the speed, and the error grows again when distance traveld is caluculated based on the inaccurate speed. Accelerometers are fun, and accurate enough to tell a "good" run from a "bad" one, but you can't get your "real" time or speed from one.

tarik916

I have owned all past models of the g-tech and none were as accurate as Dynolicious. I took them to the track years ago and they were +-3mph and +-0.5 sec. Dynolicious was used for 3 runs in the same night and the times were only slightly off (hundredths) while the MPH was exact.

Check out this comparison test by Garage419: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-DFbJQbeSY

This is how it was mounted during my runs:

seevi

I tried t about a year ago and the numbers were very unreliable. I tied it at an 1/8th mile and the only number that was close to top speed.

Richard Irving

I set up an iPhone 4 with the app, and tried using both a vent clip holder,
setting it in the console, with the console open, and finally on the passengers seat. I also ran a full calibration.

Not one reading was even close. The closest to reality was a 0-100 run, that was labeled 0-78 in 7.7 seconds. My GPS and speedometer, agree to the exact mile per hour.. so, I have no doubts about my actual speed.

The farthest from reality was a 0-90 that thought my top speed was 30mph.
It decided based upon my curb weight, that I had 111 HP. (A modified LS1,
that *started* at 350HP, and that was about 40 HP ago...)

For an iPhone 4, I would declare this a waste of money. Perhaps it works
better on some other iPhone, or something.

On a related note, the Bosch application crashed while I was selecting a picture. Now, whenever I activate it, it goes to the picture selection screen, and locks up.

Conclusion ? If you have an iPhone 4, just buy a G-tech, Don't waste your money. And just between you and me, I have doubts the "sucking wind" is limited to the iPhone 4, but I can only speak from my experience.

This app is a real "buyer beware".
.

seevi

I have it on a iPhone 4S with IOS6 and it's far moer accurate that it was on IOS4 or 5, but, it's no more than a toy. Palmer Engineering DashCommand is for more accurate since it connects directly to the OBDii port by either hardwire or wifi. It's not like being at the track, but the info for street analysis is far more reliable to make decisions.

thill444

Yeah I don’t see a lot of these times happening on a stock C8. A stock C7 Z06 (auto) was measured by C&D at 10.95 seconds @127mph. It has a ton more power, and is lighter.

Turbo6TA

Your numbers are way off for a basically stock LS3 C6

RWHP for an LS3 with M6 transmission should be about 380-385 RWHP

1/4 mile trap speed closer to about 115 mph